Dissassembly and Rebuild, any tips?

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Cain

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Well, I got in the hex drivers I needed as well as some screws as well. Planning to give her a full teardown and rebuild.


Anyway, is there anything I should look at when doing this to check for wear, etc?
 
Loktite can be a real thrill to break loose. Buy a device called a pencil torch, refillable- uncertan if you have a harbor freight store, perhaps napa stocks this. This is used to place a pinpoint flame to lok tited hex screws- heat softens loktite. around plastic- build a heat shield with household baking foil.
 
Also, male -female screw threads will load up with lok-tite, working on these cars will be lots more e-z if you buy a metric thread tap. no need to buy a complete set of taps-dies, the cars only use 2 sizes of nuts-bolts with the exception of the tiny screws that hold the brake rod end point adjustment collars.- yea, buy hi-quality taps-dies. its worth the xtra money. do not use the thread taps on plastic parts- you allready know this- others reading this may not.
 
Thanks for the info!

What areas do you recommend that need Red Loctite versus Blue?
 
pen torch +1, i use only blue , its medium strength and plenty. red for some metal/metal with the idea of only ultra low frequency of removal. personally i don't see a place for it on these units. engine parts to torque spec. use locks where appropriate with washers.

a point to keep in mind... like the wheel hex/hubs, u should really be watching the bearings so these are off and on frequently so blue is fine...with easy access the frequency will be higher... with no surprises like a race lock up. you don't want a fight just to check the bearings. about every gallon i like to do the hub check for free race movement inside and out. with red in there it want be easy you WILL strip the hex ..that ain't what you want. you want easy spray lube, , compressed air blow out, relube so you are ready to rock !

in the rebuild notice where junk plies up, joints , bearing seats...its telling you WHERE to go back and do EFFECTIVE maintenance. have fun!
 
Thanks!

In general on my other vehicles I pretty much just use blue loctite on everything. The few times I had tried red I had success heating up the screw using a soldering gun and placing it directly on the screw after getting this tip from someone. Not sure if its the ideal thing to do though, but it worked and focused the heat right where I needed it.

I think I'll look into the bearing sizes and order some spares from Avid or similar place, had good luck with those in the past.

The big thing for me though is working on the actual engine since my experience with them is virtually nill lol.

Is there any link you guys recommend that goes through the basics of working on an engine, maintenance, etc?
 
These motors are pretty much a cut and dry deal ...if you rip into the motor replace the needle bearing and gaskets on the top end and look for cracks or warping on the intake manifold if its not aluminum aftermarket. Other than that this is a good time to learn all there is to know about your kit.
 
I forgot to mention look at the teeth on all gears, pinions and crowns...take a good look at the gears in the rear and front diffs.If they look to be worn over to one side replace them soon or you will start breaking diff cases every time you run. You may want to devise a chassis brace that runs from the rear to mid chassis to help with chassis flex... this will help save diff cases and center diffs from cracking.
 
Cain said:
Thanks for the info!What areas do you recommend that need Red Loctite versus Blue?
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The only place that I find it necessary to use the red is the exhaust bolts.

I have used red elsewhere when I run out of blue. Lol I just use a tiny drip and that allows them to break free when it's time to remove again.
 
BertR said:
I forgot to mention look at the teeth on all gears, pinions and crowns...take a good look at the gears in the rear and front diffs.If they look to be worn over to one side replace them soon or you will start breaking diff cases every time you run. You may want to devise a chassis brace that runs from the rear to mid chassis to help with chassis flex... this will help save diff cases and center diffs from cracking.
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Unless you like extreme jumps this doesn't happen too much on the MT. But a custom brace or cage will really stiffen it up. A few guys have made braces out of tube that connects the shock tower down to the chassis sides. Easy and very effective.

Here is an example of a members ride.

4fc7a4a092543e3dd48496309b3a2034_zpsce4dc438.jpg
 
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FastEddie and OBR have good vids on carbs/rebuild and motor breakdown and mod stuff.

DDM has good tech page on RC stuff as well, esp. for motors
 
Thanks for the info everyone!

I have the aluminum rollcage, when properly secured does that help at all with chassis flex over the stock plastic one?

I am less of a "builder" guy and more of a "buy the mod" guy lol. Does anyone sell an upgrade like this for chassis flex like 7075RC or Rampage Hop Ups?

Anyway, I really appreciate all the info. I got a set of new wheels and tires on the way, and right now debating giving a desert rat body a go or just a TT body mainly for the lower area as I do like the buggy look.
 
I have the aluminum rollcage, when properly secured does that help at all with chassis flex?
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It does a little. A brace that connects to the shock tower is more effective. I've never seen any sold. I've only seen the custom made braces.
 
Cool thanks.

Definately not an issue just for Redcat that's for sure, my MCD came with it uparmored on the rear end using various manufacturer chassis braces, etc.
 
Here is one made by another member. Chromoly works good. It comes thin walled and us strong and lite. You can hammer the ends flat and just drill a hole. Very easy to do.

4fc7a4a092543e3dd48496309b3a2034_zpsce4dc438.jpg
 
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