Drive Axles to the wheels

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chris2071b

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ok ive only had my ramp for a couple weeks, first day i tried to run it, it wouldnt start the magneto was bad, finally got that fixed and now im having problems with the drive shafts going to the wheels, everytime i run it, the drive shafts get bent, on all 4 wheels, it has stock plastic gears, and nothing done to the motor, and a jetpro pipe, cold someone tell me why in the hell its doing this, those driveshafts are 50.00 a set, and ive already bout 2 sets, its getting a bit ridiculous.
 
only jumped it a couple times in the yard, and it only came off the ground about 3 inches, its not really a very big yard and the hump is only like 3 inches tall, its my wifes garden in the spring haha. and i don't believe i was letting off the throttle until i got close to the fence, my yard is probaly about 75 feet wide by 30 feet deep.
 
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redcats are not very popular with the aftermarket yet.nothing as far as a stronger drive shaft set. but these axels are very strong, you should not be bending cvds. i would have to say that there is a problem with your truck. something has to be binding up.or is too tight. does it roll nice and smooth if you push it? my truck used to bind horribly with the suspension adjusted up.i could actualy see it bounce up and down at slow speeds as the dogbones bound up. i found that if i cambered out the wheels it went away.
 
ya i talked to derek at redcat today, and he told me to set my shock nuts all the way down and run it, and i did that, and i drove it for like an hour and it didnt bend the drive shafts, so thanks pete
 
IMO the shafts are too long. They sit too far into the diff cup and start binding when the bones are almost anywhere but level even at neutral camber. I believe this is what caused the pins to break the first time I ran mine along with both rear upper camber links.


I've read that the old versions had problems with dogbones popping out - solution - run more neg camber. Now you got to run more pos camber to prevent binding.


For a while I wondered if it was just mine somehow because I wasn't seeing too many complaints, but I'm seeing a few more post with similar problems.
 
chris2071b said:
ya i talked to derek at redcat today, and he told me to set my shock nuts all the way down and run it, and i did that, and i drove it for like an hour and it didnt bend the drive shafts, so thanks pete
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no problem. the only thing wrong with what he told you is that if you jump it the suspension goes into full extention. and if they are still binding your still going to bend/break parts. lift it up a little while your rolling it and if they still bind you may have to camber it out some
 
Bill_G said:
IMO the shafts are too long. They sit too far into the diff cup and start binding when the bones are almost anywhere but level even at neutral camber. I believe this is what caused the pins to break the first time I ran mine along with both rear upper camber links.
I've read that the old versions had problems with dogbones popping out - solution - run more neg camber. Now you got to run more pos camber to prevent binding.


For a while I wondered if it was just mine somehow because I wasn't seeing too many complaints, but I'm seeing a few more post with similar problems.
Click to expand...
you got it bill,they are like 2mm too long now. mine does not bind anymore but it looks a little funny with the wheels tipped out like that.
 
I usually run some neg camber on all my rc's. Hopefully I can post a pic of the solution I've been workin on later today.
 
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