Engine questions KM 30.5 brand new

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BlakeyB

BlakeyB

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Ok guys I just got my self a KM 30.5 t1000 with a beatle body.

https://www.largescaleforums.com/showthread.php?t=12369

Love the damn thing, I have had some issues with it but nothing different then the trials and tribulations I had when learning the nitro.

So I originally tried to run it on coleman fule, but that was a no go. Sad because I run all of my other 2 stokes on it and prefer the smell and so does my wife. That was a fail. lol :-)

So I drained and replaced the plug, let the whole thing dry and put in 93 gas and 33:1 oil, after a lot of pulls it starts up. This is where my question comes in. I have read the engine threads but I am new to two strokes and I need a bit more hand holding. So this is my question.

This thing is a pain to start. From a cold start I have to put it on semi very light choke, or else I flood the engine.Pull a few times till it gives a semi better sound, then pull the pull start while pressing the throttle a bit. Then it will start up, sometimes it will idle fine other times I will have to make sure I monitor the engine and hit the throttle a bit to keep it going.

So what should I tune? Also I flipped it over twice and it sat on its back till I could get to it for a few. Then conked. I could'nt start it. I am guessing I flooded it.

Any ideas would be awesome, my poor arm and second pull start will appreciate it, because I think I am wearing this one out already because of all the pulling lol
 
reset your needles to factory, sounds too rich, also, adjust your idle screw. I know mine, full choke, pull till it putters, (usually 1-3 pulls) then turn choke off, one more crank and its idling. Im not sure off the top of my head what the factory H and L settings are. I just go from noise and performance, Turn the L needle in (clockwise) as its running untill it will actually sustain idle by itself. Then once you actually have it idling and starting easy, you can start turning the H needle in a tiny bit at a time untill you reach max top speed. Not sure who told you 33:1, but 25:1 is about the best for these engines. they rev real high and will use every bit of that oil.
 
33:1 is ok but personally I wouldnt go any leaner than that. Some do run at 40:1 and even 50:1 without any problems but 25:1 is safest!!
 
don't use a 33.1 mix in one of these engines.It will run but wont last long.You may hear of people putting that type of ratio in strimmers/chainsaws etc but they run @ approx 8000RPM. Our mills run anywhere between 19000 to 21000 RPM so they are doubling and more the speed of they above mentioned so don't need that much oil.
As the saying goes 'A candle that burns twice as bright lasts half as long' Antway,you wouldn't be able to tell the difference as these are not fully tuned engines.
J;)
 
a guy that races with us runs 40:1, he has been doing it since he started racing 1/5 in the 90s, he says he never had an issue. but that neither here nor there, i still stick to 25:1, as stated, the performance difference in a stock engine is neglidgable.

with my 26, to start it i prime it till the bulb is full, choke on try and start it, once i sputters i take the choke off and it fires the next pull. in cooler weather i will leave the choke half on and up my trim about 10 points for a faster idle (this is with the wheels off the ground), and bump it down as the motor warms up. starting may be different for your motor, depends on what carb it has (some of the larger motors have the 813 carb with no primer and an accelerator pump).

as for the coleman fuel, i don't know why people run it. the manuals state 87-93 octane (or 95+ on the other scale), coleman fuel is around 55 octane. sure it may smell better, however its still gasoline, it still has the same harmful fumes, they just have less odor.
 
jaredtowne you sir are my hero. All it too was a little turn of the L needle and now it starts on the second pull. To cut down on fumes I suck the gas out and store it in my basement. Normally I can leave full in the tank with the coleman but, with the gas I will drain it.

Hopefully with the new needle settings when I take it out for next weekend and fill it up, will still start second pull! Makes me much happier and I am sure the same goes for my pull start.
 
Haha, its always refreshing when stuff starts to work eh? Just remember to play with your needles in small increments to find the best performance. once you find that groove it sticks to it pretty well. and you should rarely have to touch them. But for the first few tanks keep your screwdriver in your pocket. if you ever get nervous your too lean take a look at your plug and monitor the color of it. If its getting white richen it up a little. Black too rich.. Caramel just right. If you are ever upstate give me a shout, always up for a day of bashing.
 
BlakeyB said:
. Normally I can leave full in the tank with the coleman but, with the gas I will drain it.
Click to expand...

Coleman fumes are no less toxic then petrol. Just because you cant smell it doesn't make it safer. Ask Mr. Carbon Monoxide.
http://www.coleman.com/coleman/msds/lantern.pdf

Sharkey said:
a guy that races with us runs 40:1, he has been doing it since he started racing 1/5 in the 90s, he says he never had an issue.
Click to expand...

Most racers re-ring quite often. Some after each race. Shoot, my amsoil dealer tells me he will warranty 100:1 with saber pro. I don't do it!:p
I know, the debate is endless: http://www.bridgestonemotorcycle.com/documents/oilpremix6.pdf
 
I had the same issue when first starting my KM T1000 when new. The factory needle settings are way off. Once I leaned the settings down to stock (1 1/4 L & 1/1/2 H) she ran well enough to start fine tuning.
I used to be on a professional model airshow team, flying helicopters. Since the early 90s I have only run coleman fule in my galoline two strokes installed in model vehicles and aircraft. This includes some very highly modified zenoahs. In 1997 one of my modified 23cc Zenoahs set a new FAI world speed record for a model helicopter (over 127 mph) running on Coleman fuel!
The big advantage to running Coleman fuel, (along with synthetic oil) is virtually zero engine deposits. It still amazes me, when disassembling an engine with dozens and dozens of hours of run time, to find that it is as clean as a new engine out of the box. One other advantage is that the Coleman burns a bit cooler. The lower octane allows the "burn" to last longer as well, thus increasing the duration of the power stroke so to say.
I have not skimmed the threads for a check on this, but I wonder if any of the engine builders, with dynos, have compared power output on gasoline vs Coleman fuel.
BTW, Coleman fuel is basically Naptha (dry cleaning fluid) a very refined petoleum distallite.
 
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