Engine won't kill reward for help!!!

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X2Boss

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Barnstaple,Devon,UK
Hi,

I'm new to 1/5 R/C's however got the King Motor from RCmodelz.co.uk (rude and poor customer service) however that's for another day.

I'm on the 4th tank of fuel after running it in as recommended and snapped the pull starter, so brought a new one and fitted it however since I've done so I can not get be engine to cut out, she runs sweet etc but can't get it to cut out unless I starve the fuel supply.

So I took engine cover off and realigned the coil using the business card trick the get the spacing correct so it's not rubbing on the fly wheel, however still had no joy. Being an electrician and having electrical knowledge I tested he coil using my Ohm meter and all test are spot on (going by the manufactures guidelines) the engine is a fuelie 30.5cc 4 bolt.

I've also tested the stitch on and off the wires all is okay, wiring to and from the kill switch and coil are perfect I.e tight and correct ....

The kill switch is normally open 'NO' and when pressed makes contact with other side of coils in basic yearns short out wires to kill engine .... However it doesn't.

I've tried a copper fly lead to touch on "ground" I.e on the engine case to the coil both wire but still will not cut engine out?

Also tried new switch (even though old one tested fine) just for piece of mind and manually touch wires together whilst engine was running yet again no luck


Anyone who could help would be appreciated, may be something simple but I've done everything logical .... Well from an electricians point of anyway ha

Thanks a lot
 
Hi,

I'm new to 1/5 R/C's however got the King Motor from RCmodelz.co.uk (rude and poor customer service) however that's for another day.

I'm on the 4th tank of fuel after running it in as recommended and snapped the pull starter, so brought a new one and fitted it however since I've done so I can not get be engine to cut out, she runs sweet etc but can't get it to cut out unless I starve the fuel supply.

So I took engine cover off and realigned the coil using the business card trick the get the spacing correct so it's not rubbing on the fly wheel, however still had no joy. Being an electrician and having electrical knowledge I tested he coil using my Ohm meter and all test are spot on (going by the manufactures guidelines) the engine is a fuelie 30.5cc 4 bolt.

I've also tested the stitch on and off the wires all is okay, wiring to and from the kill switch and coil are perfect I.e tight and correct ....

The kill switch is normally open 'NO' and when pressed makes contact with other side of coils in basic yearns short out wires to kill engine .... However it doesn't.

I've tried a copper fly lead to touch on "ground" I.e on the engine case to the coil both wire but still will not cut engine out?

Also tried new switch (even though old one tested fine) just for piece of mind and manually touch wires together whilst engine was running yet again no luck


Anyone who could help would be appreciated, may be something simple but I've done everything logical .... Well from an electricians point of anyway ha

Thanks a lot


i would try a coil if you have already ran a wire to the two post on the ignition coil. may have a bad connection in the coil after the spade connector.
 
So weird. Problem is usually not being able to start. Never heard of not being able to shut off. I bet thats a problem a lot of guys would love to have lol. Are you 100% sure the new kill switch was connected the way it came? Maybe they had the wires backwards from the factory?..... I feel your pain buddy. Going thru some interference issues from my motor. Makes me not wanna drive it. Scared of it going outta control....... Quick question, where your coil bolts to the head, is there 2 plastic spacers between the head and the coil?
 
I know right!! Sod law just my luck, she runs perfect engine wise but as you said I'm scared to use it in case I get a "run-away" (do have switchblade fail safe but removed since problem of not cutting out to see if that was the problem and wasn't).
Answer to your question yes the coil has spacers, as it comes from the factory. Also the kill switch on these motors run normal open which is you don't know there's no contact between the Red and black wire until you press the switch which makes contact .... Effectiy sorting out killing the supply. I've also tried without the switch and manually connecting he wires again engine won't kill?

Got and new coil on the way should be here tomorrow and fitted tomorrow evening so will update you if I have any luck!

Just really won't to take her out was only on my 4th tank and it's been sunny here in the UK for the last few day which very rare lol!

Thank
 
Well I guess it must be the coil then. Reason I mention the spacers (I'm by far no expert) is I seen a rebuild vid and guy said no spacers is a ok then watched the obr break down and he says no spacers can cause interference issues...... I feel your pain with the nice weather. We just go thru one of the worst winters in yrs here. Snow finally melts and now I'm dealing with run away issues. Damn near broke my foot stopping it the other day. Don't have a fail safe hooked up but both my servo and transmitter have built in fail safe that I guess doesn't engage with interference issues. PIA
 
Fitted the new coil and hey presto all is fine. Despite the place I brought it from adamant it was the switch even though I tested everything.

Thanks for all your help

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