Engine Won't turn off HELP

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X2Boss

Well-Known Member
Messages
92
Location
Barnstaple,Devon,UK
Hi,

I'm new to 1/5 R/C's however got the King Motor from RCmodelz.co.uk (rude and poor customer service) however that's for another day.

I'm on the 4th tank of fuel after running it in as recommended and snapped the pull starter, so brought a new one and fitted it however since I've done so I can not get be engine to cut out, she runs sweet etc but can't get it to cut out unless I starve the fuel supply.

So I took engine cover off and realigned the coil using the business card trick the get the spacing correct so it's not rubbing on the fly wheel, however still had no joy. Being an electrician and having electrical knowledge I tested he coil using my Ohm meter and all test are spot on (going by the manufactures guidelines) the engine is a fuelie 30.5cc 4 bolt.

Anyone who could help would be appreciated.

Thanks a lot
 
Sometimes the coil kill side can go to crap.. Obviously check all connections, and disconnect the kill switch and jump that out. Those switches are crap 2
 
Cheers for getting back to me, I have linked out old and replaced with new, all connections are perfect (re-crimes wires and stock crips wasn't a tight fit). Also I did continuity test between the red wire and the black wire (saperated with switch taken off) and had nothing is the correct ?

Maybe best bet is try new coil? Thanks again
 
The ground wire on the off switch it loose from the coil you have to take front cover off motor to get to it
Or the switch is bad either way front of motor has to com off no big deal
 
Hi thanks for reply I have taken apart and re fitted coil using a business card for spacing also checked connections to and from coil also used new switch and finally tested coil with ohm meter and all is okay however problem still persists ?

Thanks
 
Did you check switch with meter if it runs and it won't turn off with the switch on the motor why are you checking the coil
I may be missing something I didn't have my glasses on when I read it the first time
Put Meeter on omes and when you push switch meeter should go to 0 if it's ok
If it does go to 0 then one wire that touches the motor housing is not or broken
It's hard to explain this way but keep trying you will find it and you will remember it once you do
Besides this is part of the fun trying to figure out what's wrong with it
 
Last edited:
Hi, thanks for your help appreciate it.
The reasons tested the coil was to rule out the possibility being that (I'm a electrician but have little to no knowledge on electrics on car motors hence coming here)
Will it later on and see how I get on.
Cheers
 
Tested he switch today using my ohm meter all was good (went to '0' when pushed kill switch in) also tested to 'Ground' by means of one end of my test leads on the motor housing (metal) and the other on one side of the switch and that was working again reason '0' when kill switch was pressed in.

Also disconnected switch and manually pressed wires together still no luck, then put switch back on and held an extra bit of insulated copper wire from motor head to both sides of coil (separately) to ground but again no luck?

And stating be obvious soon as you pull the spark plug wire the engine disengageds as I've read on here carbon deposits at the top of the engine head can build up and get so hot the glow and act as a spark plug.... Wether that's true or not?

It's only ever been since I've changed my pull starteR, there is the correct gap of 0.3mm from fly wheel to coil ?

The only thing the I must be is the coil as when the two wires off the coil touch the should disengage the spark plug essentially creating a short killing the engine?

Thanks
 
Fitted the new coil and hey presto all is fine. Despite the place I brought it from adamant it was the switch even though I tested everything.

Thanks for all your help

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I've got engine problerms. Engine will not start however kill switch is okay (Normally Open) push in and closes killing engine.... However I'm getting continuity between the live (red) and neutral (black) through the coil?

This is inversely not correct but this is the 2nd could only on my 4th tank of fuel, I have a switch blade fail safe could this be causing the coil to go?
Also getting countinuity between live (Red) and neutral (Black) on switch blade kill switch is this correct?

Have tested everything sepratley ... Also getting a good spark but not kicking in as its grounded (countinuity between conductors) ?

Any advice would be appreciated

Thanks Kieran
 
Sounds like you need to find someone near you that knows what they are doing on large scale and get them to teach you a few things. First thing I recommend is learn how to use spell check so we are able to understand you problems better.
 
That's the trouble with where I live they're isn't a repair shop for over 3 hours. I've had to learn and learn fast but slowly getting there which is why guys like me really appreciate all the help that's received and any help I can pass on in future to other newbird.

Mentioned about spelling in other posts I get the point....
 
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