DBXL 2.0 Everything was great until it wasn't. Clutch issues?

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Freelander

Freelander

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So we ran for a third time after some serious work everything is awesome. Engine sounds good. Electronics working perfect.

Now the engine winds up but we get anemic response. No speed, no pickup. Everything appears and sounds fine. Just no zoom zoom with the vroom vroom.


It should be noted it is spitting/wet roads.


Gotta be the clutch(?)


Going to pull the motor tonight.


What can be wrong with the clutch if anything: what should I be looking for?
I mean as far as I can tell just from checking in the field there is no problem with the drive train centre diff to wheels. I guess the spur could be barely on but I doubt it. It is on or it is off in my experience.
 
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Yeah. Duh. Spur gear. I make confusion. I just figure that is not it but it could very well be an easy fix. Just the fact we get some weak response and not just a total disconnect from the engine makes me suspect the clutch. Valuable input.
I just hope whatever it is nothing is completely missing at this point.
 
Most likely nothing is missing, on my first 5t 2.0 the clutch carrier bolt that holds the clutch assembly to the crank backed out. No big deal you just have to take it apart and use red loctite on it.
 
It was nothing. That rear drive shaft universal set screw backed out again. Hanging on just enough to turn the centre diff by hand but slip under power 16682245930144840911734955953274.webp

Centre diff has just enough resistance to make the front wheels pull the truck around and deliver all the power to a detached driveshaft apparently. I plan on stuffing 100k in the centre diff this weekend. Going to grab a few more M4 set screws since this seems to be a thing that happens with this truck.


For diff fluids mainly off road running with the odd parking lot shakedown run I was planning on 50k front, 100k centre, 30k rear. Not far from the 30-50-30 stock setup except we plan on actually filling the diffs.

Thanks! Everything seems tight in terms of the clutch holder and spur gear and I don't want to crack red loctite and so on unless it is necessary. Pretty sure we found the obvious problem.
 
Rep732 said:
Those set screws are m6x1.0 if I remember right.
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That would be a bit large. I think there are only a few M6 screws on the whole DBXL 2.0 from what I can tell and they are machine heads. I did check the thread with another longer screw and a glance at the exploded view only shows M4 and M5 set screws but that dog bone and this drive cup are infuriatingly missing from the diagrams. It is however the same size as the set screw from a mod 1.0 spur gear for a 5mm shaft we use in the electric cars.

We did loctite it previously but it did not hold for whatever reason. We did follow what best practices we know like giving it nearly 24 hours to cure.

Planning a quick trip to the LHS to get some diff fluid. Oh but certainly we found a few other screws that had worked themselves out on the steering yokes.
 
You know what? I am flabbergasted. @Rep732 Is there *anything* you don't know?? Screenshot_20221112-155702_PocketBook.webpScreenshot_20221112-155652_PocketBook.webp

That part of the driveshaft and cup do not appear anywhere and neither does the screw and I have no idea now which screw I checked (I have a ziploc full of metric stainless bolts my food factory mill Wright neighbour gifted me) but I was way off. Luckily I needed M4x4mm set screws anyway but it's blatantly M6.gotta go back to the LHS.
Screenshot_20221112-155650_PocketBook.webp
It is just not there at all. Am I missing something?

Anyway. It is raining 5°c and wimdy. Was going to put on the snow tires on the 1:1 but we're tearing this thing apart and watching racing instead. Christmas lights are going to have to wait until tomorrow or next weekend also. Perfect weather for hiding in the basement.
 
I forgot my wallet and spent my points I had to choose M5 or M6 instead of grabbing both. I went with the M6 which isn't listed because Horizon wants you to buy the entire centre driveshaft, cup and hardware for 42 bucks just to get the set screws apparently. I had a moment of doubt. M4 was comically too small, M5 I tried and it didn't grab I still was not sure but I had only one choice I could make at the store even though I will need more M5 set screws for the drive shafts but I went with M6 and they are the one. ARA724606 works. Massive respect.
Yeah. They don't list the set screws on the parts because you have to buy the whole assembly if you don't have proper guidance.
 
Stop going to the hobby shop for screws. Mc master Carr, MSC, bolt depot, or even Amazon is way cheaper for better quality stuff. Also if there isn't a decent flat spot for the grub screw to sit on, break out the file or dremel and make one on the shaft. 99% of loctite failure can be attributed to a few things. Not clean enough is the biggest. Brake clean works well for oil removal. There are also activators and primers you can buy, but I don't typically reccomend them as they work very well and make it all the harder to disassemble when the time comes.
 
Sean the biggest thing I've noticed with the set/grub screws was they want a counter sink to sit in and if there isn't one i noticed the screw starts to flatten out. Ive thought about grinding off the "ball" off the grub screw so it's flat surface to flat surface. Just a thought
 
We like to support our LHS and it is less than 2km away. It is so convenient and necessary for getting parts immediately. I have a major problem with my ADD/hyper focus that makes waiting for parts in the mail a horrible experience. It's also social call since the staff at both our local stores know us very well. Sure we could source metric screws cheaper but visiting Frank, Anna and the other staff and trading stories and tips has elevated our understanding of the hobby immensely. Also we get run of the store: going through the shelves without someone looking over our shoulders, getting our parts and checking out in seconds sometimes. Yeah, we have 2 awesome stores inside 7km. We're super lucky. I am perfectly happy paying premium for the branded hardware rather than waiting on a package or running from hardware store to hardware store.


Our trucks are running tomorrow come hell or high water and supporting our LHS and having parts same day coming right off a bash session is awesome.


There were dark days during the pandemic and we ordered bearings from Canada bearing and it was awesome in quality and so on way above the OEM stuff though. It was motor bearings and a thrust bearing for a slipper clutch. That was awesome.


But put it this way: (Canadians will understand) sure, Tim Horton's tastes like month old bong water reheated in a microwave but darn it is convenient. I could go park and wait for an espresso but I'd rather make sure my homeboys at the LHS getting paid and if I pay premium so I can have it in my hands right away and run tomorrow? Priceless.
 
Sorry mate, this isn't the 80's. I'll not go out of my way to support a brick and mortor store selling inferior products and quadruple the price. Specifically speaking about the metric fasteners used in rc. Too many options that are so much better then oe. Get what you need to get you by then order good stuff.
Rep732 said:
Sean the biggest thing I've noticed with the set/grub screws was they want a counter sink to sit in and if there isn't one i noticed the screw starts to flatten out. Ive thought about grinding off the "ball" off the grub screw so it's flat surface to flat surface. Just a thought
Click to expand...
I was getting the hollow tiped or the toothy tipped grub screws for a while. They really bit in, but liked a flat spot on a round shaft better then just ramming them into the shaft and hoping for the best. The toothy ones were a pain to find.
 
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