Exhaust heat sink worth it?

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I do not suggest it (although, some people have). The gasket is there for 2 reasons (neither is for clearance)
Mainly, using 2 gaskets, gives more chance of not sitting flush, hence chance for exhaust leak/blowout. Which if not corrected quick enough, can cause damage to softer metal (hence, the aluminum block).

As well, second is due to the dissimilar metals (not going into that, right now) Dr. Appt.
But surely someone else will chime in, on that and as well not a good idea to use 2 gaskets.
Of course, unless you do use that spacer = obviously 1 per side.

EDIT: Liked your post, as nothing I consider is a noob question. = you learn something new each day.
Even at my age......:rolleyes::giggle:
 
I read from the ddm product page of these aluminium spacers with fins that they increase low end torque and reduce heat build up in the exhaust port
 
BCRstudio said:
I do not suggest it (although, some people have). The gasket is there for 2 reasons (neither is for clearance)
Mainly, using 2 gaskets, gives more chance of not sitting flush, hence chance for exhaust leak/blowout. Which if not corrected quick enough, can cause damage to softer metal (hence, the aluminum block).

As well, second is due to the dissimilar metals (not going into that, right now) Dr. Appt.
But surely someone else will chime in, on that and as well not a good idea to use 2 gaskets.
Of course, unless you do use that spacer = obviously 1 per side.

EDIT: Liked your post, as nothing I consider is a noob question. = you learn something new each day.
Even at my age......:rolleyes::giggle:
Click to expand...
What if I were to "sandwich" a copper one in between? One of my options is to lengthen the but only a out about half as much as the aluminium one..... Just trying find space between the expansion chamber and sound some plastic parts in the rear end.
 
Dashz said:
I read from the ddm product page of these aluminium spacers with fins that they increase low end torque and reduce heat build up in the exhaust port
Click to expand...
The extra chamber space, would allow for (very imperceptible) amount of low torque (well real world, not bench). Same goes with heat build up.
Granted the reduced heat build up, is with car NOT moving, and engine just idling (for extended time).

But in reality (normal/real world conditions) there is NO BENEFIT.
John117 said:
What if I were to "sandwich" a copper one in between? One of my options is to lengthen the but only a out about half as much as the aluminium one..... Just trying find space between the expansion chamber and sound some plastic parts in the rear end.
Click to expand...
If the fins are in the way, just dremel them off (or put in vise, and grind them smooth). This way you get the space you need, if that is what you are after.
The aluminum, has low heat conduction. So copper, would NOT be a good substitute for a spacer (of this thickness).
It is a good insulator, as well heat dissipation (just not as good as 1/4" ~ 1/2" thick aluminum (per:time/heat build up/factor).
 
BCRstudio said:
The extra chamber space, would allow for (very imperceptible) amount of low torque (well real world, not bench). Same goes with heat build up.
Granted the reduced heat build up, is with car NOT moving, and engine just idling (for extended time).

But in reality (normal/real world conditions) there is NO BENEFIT.

If the fins are in the way, just dremel them off (or put in vise, and grind them smooth). This way you get the space you need, if that is what you are after.
The aluminum, has low heat conduction. So copper, would NOT be a good substitute for a spacer (of this thickness).
It is a good insulator, as well heat dissipation (just not as good as 1/4" ~ 1/2" thick aluminum (per:time/heat build up/factor).
Click to expand...
What I need is something about half the thickness of the spacer. Any ideas. other than making one myself?
 
Well, aluminum is soft, and easy to make/cut/dremel. Home depot has some 1/8" 1/4" 1/2" sheet (for pretty cheap)
You still will need the one you have, for template. You could just cut the fins off, and lap that piece until you get thickness you want.
I only say cut off fins, to make lapping (surfacing) faster.
You only need some aggressive wet/dry sandpaper and flat surface. It will take time, but just do even strokes/ constantly turning.
Start at 120 grit. Or coarser, and no need to go as fine (or finer) than 180 ~ 220.

I am sure DDM (or the like, sells a thinner version, and or will make one for about same cost. perhaps a few dollars more)
Or ANYONE near you with a cnc machine, heck I can make one in under 5 minutes. With my machine.
Meh, 10.00 dollars at most for custom one, if you bring yours to a machine shop. they can use it as a template, and cut thickness you want/need using their scrap materials.

EDIT: if they even charge you. They would rather get word of mouth, to other people (RC'ers) that their machine shop is near and can do easy stuff like that.
 
Cheers I'll have a crack and see how I go.
I live in Oz so a lot of the places recommended are US and shipping /conversion is a killer.
 
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