exhaust problems DR

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kbreaux100

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I seam to have a problem with my exhaust. ive noticed with the stock exhaust can that if i take my stinger off i get a lot more low end power. the only problem is the exhaust blows right on my wing and wing mount. do you guys think this wil eventually melt my wing and mount? also, i am thinking about getting an x can for my dunerunner, but just eyeballing the fit up i think the same thing will happen with the x can. do they make stingers for the x can that will divert the exhaust or will it be ok for the exhaust to blow right onto my winvg and wing mount?
 
ok, looking on daves motor, i see they have x cans with exhaust pointing from straight out towards the wing,left, and down. should i get the one pointing towards the wing and get 45 degree pipes to divert it past the wing, or is there other options? any suggestions before i buy will be appreciated
 
The X-Can hits on the wing also. I used 1/2" id X 8" long silicon hose, tied to the cross braces under the wing and secured with hose clamps to the short the X-Can pipes. Also got the better low end power. I don't have the link to the site where I got the silicon hose right now, but I got it from RCDAD. It's a reasonable alternative until you decide on a tuned pipe.
 
excellent, thanks for the help and the link!! I definitely have time to kill now. I was checking all my hardware today to make sure everything was tight and I noticed that the nuts that hold the main gears on their shafts were loose. I guess I torqued one too tight and broke it right off. It was the shaft that the brakes and the pinion for the center diff ride on. Does anyone have any idea how tighyt those nuts have to be? Do I use red or blue lock tight on them? I really didnt use much force, I stuck a towel in the gears so I could get a little leverage on the nuts, and I was trying to be careful. Guess it was too much though. That was definitely an oHH S##t moment. Oh well, gives me an excuse to take apart my DD and learn some things. Bad part about it is I'm out of the game till my parts come in.
 
Those gear shaft nuts only need to be snug. They are a nylock nut, no Loctite required. If you over tighten them you can pull that brake shaft away from the center crown gear causing mesh issues.
 
oops!! yeh i kinda figured that the nut didnt need to be locktighted, the only reason I asked is because after about a 1 hr run they were very loose, and i didnt want my gears flying off while I was at full throttle. would want to imagine what that would look like! Anyways, I'm not too hurt about it because I was gonna have to dissasemble that area anyways because I bought a 8,000 rpm spring for my clutch. My dunerunner has a really bad low end bog, especially when im going uphill. Im hoping the clutch spring and the x can will solve some of the problem. I have tried low and high end tuning to no avail. I have also noticed the high end jet is very sensative. If i go just 1/8 of a turn too lean, The motor starts bogging after I hit top RPM.
 
ok, i put the 8000rpm red spring on my clutch shoes tonight. the only thing that worries me is i noticed that the ends of the red spring are a tad shorter than the ends of the stock spring. i shaved the red paint off the ends, and installed it. but because the red spring is a tad shorter. the ends of the spring barely make it through the hole. also, because its shorter, the spring is a tiny bit expanded while on the clutch hub. is this ok? i know the spring i got wasnt defective because i got two and they are both like that. the shoes don't hit the bell, but im just hoping because the spring ends barely make it through the hole it wont fly off!!
 
I had a red spring snap off on me and it barely went through. You can also make hole a little bigger where the spring goes in if it doesn't hold up.
 
i may just do that. but is the spring supposed to be a little expanded? in other words, i can just see daylight through the middle coils. heres a pic

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i gues im way off topic but ive got one last question. i broke the rope on my pull start so i was gonna take it apart to fix it. geez usss i was in for a surprise! i have never had a screw beat me like the one holding the prawl and spring on. first, i stripped the hex head trying to break it free. then, i tried heating it and backing it out with a notch cut with a dremel and a flat head. no. then i tried backing it out with a left handed thread drill bit. still no. i cannot get that screw backed out!!! i just ordered another pull start, but im gonna have to wait for it to arrive until i can run again. are they all that stubborn?
 
Those hy pullstarters do that cause the spring losses grip on the screw so it won't back out unless ya pry it up while your unscrewing. I would pick up a new starter and then you should be able to get that screw out if needed
 
There not worth fixing. They are cheap enough to throw away. If you want a starter worthy of rebuilding I would go with on of the Turtle Racing models.
 
They can be a pain in the butt some times..If your not fluent with a pull start it's better to toss it an buy a new one.
 
I always wanted one but when u can get pullstarts for 11 bucks when ddm has a sale I stock up and of course now they done break on me
 
ive taken apart outboard and nitro pull starts so i just figured i would learn the fuelie pullstart. guess i was wrong! thing is, even if i couldnt fix it, i still like to take things apart so i know how to fix em next time. guess im not gonna learn with this one. yeh, ive looked at the turtle pull starts, but theyre sooo expensive!! are they worth it? is there a little cheaper alternative that are somewhat reliable and rebuilable?
 
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