First thoughts, Q's

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RampageHopUps said:
Trinketeering at its best. Don't waste your money.
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Why don't like ?I don't tested yet, but it make much easy to remove engine.View attachment 7678ImageUploadedByTapatalk1426878978.147421.webp

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Back at it, the 24mm ramtech adapters are a piece of art, yeah I know it's his board but they are really well done...View attachment 7679

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Ildy666 said:
I agree with Rob...not that much of a pain in ass.....
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you know what is a pain in the ass? Getting those aluminum blocks off the shafts in the transmission.
 
Yeah I got them but it sucked, 2 came with a lighter but had to break out a torch for the layshaft one. She's coming together mostly. Shoulda done an oring on the backside of the brake posts but i will get back in there for steering servo. The hpi 5b stock is too large for the mount. Need a chub screw and bushing for it, had to cut the plastic hub to pull the cvd out one was so messed up.
 
View attachment 7682View attachment 7683View attachment 7684View attachment 7685Sucks about the servo size, I don't think there is enough to cut in the mount to make it work.EDIT** THE SERVO FITS FINE

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Fired her up for a couple minutes yesterday to check build and determined there is some bind occurring. Most likely culprit is the lay shaft gear to the center differential...YEAH!
 
I guessed right. I will be honest, it bums me out. This was a manufacturer's aluminum center diff mount. It does not fit well without binding the mesh. I have tried just about every shim combo I could think of. If the mount tops are any closetr it binds.I'll Dremel the holes in the plate to fit, replace with cap head screws and loctite the hell out of them to keep mount tops from spreading further apart and chewing the gears. But I feel it should not be necessary on a part like this. I'll be sending a link to this thread in an email to them so I posted this here for that reason and for other members to know my experience.I get that stuff happens, all other parts from them fit perfect, overall still happy with it, just bummed about this.View attachment 7686

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therealrsr said:
I guessed right. I will be honest, it bums me out. This was a manufacturer's aluminum center diff mount. It does not fit well without binding the mesh. I have tried just about every shim combo I could think of. If the mount tops are any closetr it binds.I'll Dremel the holes in the plate to fit, replace with cap head screws and loctite the hell out of them to keep mount tops from spreading further apart and chewing the gears. But I feel it should not be necessary on a part like this. I'll be sending a link to this thread in an email to them so I posted this here for that reason and for other members to know my experience.

I get that stuff happens, all other parts from them fit perfect, overall still happy with it, just bummed about this.

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Did you loosen the bottom screws a little before trying to align the top ones? Don't forget that both top and bottom screws need to be aligned. If you had already tighten the bottom ones chances are the parts were already misaligned. Take your time and screw them together half to one turn at the time. You'll see that it does the trick.
 
Yes I did, it was removed and reinstalled at least 10 times trying different shim combinations. It binds before both top and bottom are tightened down. It works with the drill/button head workaround, but the idea of the part is to beef up a smooth drivetrain. Now there is potential for flex.
 
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