Flooding

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I'm going to disagree with the too much oil in the mix. 25:1 is fine. GizmoMotors recommends 16:1 on their engines. Less oil voids their warranty. There are plenty who will argue on what's the best ratio. I'm just stating my opinion.

What you are seeing is an unburnt fuel/oil mix from running too rich.
 
RCDAD said:
I'm going to disagree with the too much oil in the mix. 25:1 is fine. GizmoMotors recommends 16:1 on their engines. Less oil voids their warranty. There are plenty who will argue on what's the best ratio. I'm just stating my opinion.What you are seeing is an unburnt fuel/oil mix from running too rich.
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I think you're right DAD

I've had the high and low needles wrong way round from the start.

Do you think cleaning the can out is enough to get it going and burn the rest out as it goes?
 
Yes.

You can turn it upside down with the plug out. Give her a few pulls to clear it out. You can also turn in the low needle to restrict any extra fuel from entering. Remember not to tighten the needle screws as they can be damaged easily.

Once you get her running it will burn out all of the access.
 
Hi DAD

I got her running and put the Walbro back on but I'm down to 1 1/8 on the LSN and she still won't idle - just stops with a wet plug.

The idle screw is all the way in.

How lean can I go on the LSN before I do any damage?

Thanks
 
Every carb is a bit different but you should not need to turn it in lower than 1 turn out.

The normal position on the idle stop screw is to let the carb lever hit about 1/2 way up the tapered end of the idle stop screw. Again no two carbs are alike.

There is some good info in here.

 
RCDAD said:
Every carb is a bit different but you should not need to turn it in lower than 1 turn out.The normal position on the idle stop screw is to let the carb lever hit about 1/2 way up the tapered end of the idle stop screw. Again no two carbs are alike.

There is some good info in here.

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Thanks mate
 
Phill said:
Thanks mate
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Get the L adjusted to keep the engine running . Use the idle screw to set how high you want the idle RPM to be. The main adjustment is the H screw, idle is effective to about 1/3 throttle, then it's on the H adjustment. So if you're flooding at idle, run the L down so it doesn't flood. Don't worry about how many turns it takes. See my post about Density Altitude.

The recommended needle settings are for Sea Level, 68 degrees F at sea level. Good reference point, but we don't always run at Standard Settings, do we.

Adjustment for local conditions have to be made.
 
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Chief409 said:
Get the L adjusted to keep the engine running . Use the idle screw to set how high you want the idle to be. The main adjustment is the H screw, idle is effective to about 1/3 throttle, then it's on the H adjustment. So if you're flooding at idle, run the L down so it doesn't flood.
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Thanks Chief

I'm learning slowly

I've worked with 4 strokes all my life so this is all new to me
 
Phill said:
I always used the idle screw to keep em running and then adjusted the mixtures This way I have to do the mixture and then the idle
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If the plug is wet at idle, well, what are you going to do? Lean it of course!

Get the idle set, then work on the H needle. Just keep it on the rich side.

Remember to run Rich of Peak!

Watch this:

http://www.oneillbrothers.com/blog/breakin/
 
Thanks for the help guys but I found the answer in an old post by The Count

The bolts that come with the DDM alloy manifold are a hair too long.

Put an extra washer under the bolt head and she idles

I don't understand how an air leak makes it run rich but it works

Phill
 
Air leaks let air in and with that extra amount of air and not the extra amount of fuel....leaning leaning and gone haha
 
I've got it to idle at 3/4 turn LSN but it's getting hot and the plug is grey which isn't cutting it.

I have to richen it to start it and then lean it for idle.

I came to that setting by going just rich of too lean.

I might try going just lean of too rich and see what happens.

If I run it like this I'm sure it will seize.
 
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