front disc brakes

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stevemack said:
ive been eyeballing the hydrolic disk brakes for my KM. whats your thoughts?
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i use the rovan version, i like them they have a good stop and lock up, better then the cable type i had before,
only thing you have to be on the look out is what you hit,brake a fitting and it will be a done deal with them, i have spares as well as bulk hose,
over all they do the job
 
brakes

chitown joe said:
i use the rovan version, i like them they have a good stop and lock up, better then the cable type i had before,
only thing you have to be on the look out is what you hit,brake a fitting and it will be a done deal with them, i have spares as well as bulk hose,
over all they do the job
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yes the rovan version is what im lookn at. also a boost bottle my engine has a flutter in the hi R's and thats suppose to take care of it. going to contac dan and see if he carries those items
 
that could be result of a clogged or partially clogged carb or carb passage. or a bad carb itself. not to rule any of this out, best to pop it off and look thing over, or may just be not enough fuel at high end or too much too, may just be a adjust of needle issue for max rpm.
 
chitown joe said:
dido, you would be wasting your time,and money.
you say a flutter? whats your meaning of flutter? i have heard that used in different terms, thats why i ask
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it doesn't quite max out in the rpm gets almost there and starts to hessitat like. im not sure how to explain it
 
Lan-Ed-Tul said:
that could be result of a clogged or partially clogged carb or carb passage. or a bad carb itself. not to rule any of this out, best to pop it off and look thing over, or may just be not enough fuel at high end or too much too, may just be a adjust of needle issue for max rpm.
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in another post u mentioned galling because my carb was lean from the factory if there was galling would that make it sputter (as i call it) in the upper range it seems to run fine and idle ok. im going to pull int an ex off and ill report back. the low end is def better with the needles out where they should be
 
stevemack said:
in another post u mentioned galling because my carb was lean from the factory if there was galling would that make it sputter (as i call it) in the upper range it seems to run fine and idle ok. im going to pull int an ex off and ill report back. the low end is def better with the needles out where they should be
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nah that was for a different issue you wondering if any damage was done inside motor. sounds like motors running just fine, i think its a fuel/carb issue your talkin bout now, before ya go bustin it down i would play with HS needle adjustment and see if you can rid the sputter from it by adjusting that HS needle again, if it wont, then i would pop the carb off and inspect it for cloggin or residue build up, heard a guy had black stuff all inside his and that was issue runnin on his baja, just be careful not to damage your gaskets when removing if possible, to reuse them.


get ya a can of carb cleaner to clean up the carb, etc.. inside and out.

but im betting its a adjustment issue on the needles. follow that guide link posted above for tuning.
 
i think your rite. i just pulled the exh off. (curiosity was killing me lol)and in my experience over the years the galling is predominately on the exh port and exh side of the piston and the ring. i didnt see anything that i needed to be concerned with. just wanted to let u know what i had found. now i can rest easy lol. thanx
 
Got my hydro front brake kit from Dan. Other then the seals being completely
worthless, they're great. Quick trip to sLowes and had it working in no time. Def would recommend, great quality MC and calipers. I think I also liked the overall design of the KM model compared to the Rovan. BTW I have these installed on a KM 2.O Aluminum model soon to be 2 speed. Makes you feel a lot better when you know you can stop almost instantly, but the wear is started to show on the front tires from locking em up.
 
KM front brakes

clzliljohn said:
Got my hydro front brake kit from Dan. Other then the seals being completely
worthless, they're great. Quick trip to sLowes and had it working in no time. Def would recommend, great quality MC and calipers. I think I also liked the overall design of the KM model compared to the Rovan. BTW I have these installed on a KM 2.O Aluminum model soon to be 2 speed. Makes you feel a lot better when you know you can stop almost instantly, but the wear is started to show on the front tires from locking em up.
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I just bought and installed the KM hydraulic front disc brakes. Were your front brakes leaking at the srcew fittings that hold them on? I did an air check and pulled the srcews out to find fiber like litte rings look like they shouldve been o-rings. Is that what you did just changed to rubber o-rings? I also changed out the stock servo and when with a hitec high torque, the stock wouldnt handle it. Any input on those seals would help. Thanks in advance.
 
I had the km disc from dan. I ended sending them back. I couldn't get it to seal for crap. Then once I got the calipers to seal the master started to leak. But dan took care of it right away.

For the seals in the front I used some shock seals I had for a traxxas big bore shocks. They worked great.
 
i bought the km brakes from dan my calipers don't leak but the master has since day 1 out of the push shaft. i pulled it apart and sure enough the oring where junk
 
yes mine was/is doing the same thing!!! spitting black brake fluid out of the front the master cyc!!! I pulled my shaft as well and found all the orings in tact as far as i can tell but they just look of cheap quality!!! I will run to the hardware store or sLowes tomorrow and look for a replacement!!!
 

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Hi guys
i use the rovan front brakes and fount that the o rings will fall apart after a few days contact with brake fluid. I stripped out all seals and replaced them and now use don carlos extra virgin olive oil instad of brake fluid.no problems with seals now and front wheels still lock up on dry tar.the olive oil works perfect and smells ok too.

Regards sid
 
rovan brakes

Hi guys
I have these brakes fitted and discovered after a couple of days the started to leak at master cylinder. I removed plunger to discover the seals had been distroyed by the brake fluid.i replaced all the seals and now use extra virgin olive oil instead of brake fluid and 2mts later no problems.the oil works great and no probs locking wheels on dry tar.
 
Hi There Everyone,

I wasn't able to start a new thread as I've only just joined and the forum won't let me. First up, I'm a full on newbie. Fact. Secondly, I'm not from the RC world, I'm from a film background.

So I have been building a cable cam for the past year and it's made up with a lot of RC car parts. The system is running pretty well now, but due to the fact it's quite heavy, the motor doesn't have enough drag to bring it to smooth halt. I can put it into reverse, but this brings it to an immediate stop. Not so good for a $50k camera...

So I was looking at these disc brakes;

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RC-R-c-Of...sGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item27ce3ef7b2

Are they any good? Would it be possible to use these in a controlled way, like bring the unit to a gradual stop similar to a regular car?

I assume that the brake system needs a servo to push the piston? If so, how does this one look?;

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/THROTTLE-...Radio_Controlled_Vehicles&hash=item5d2e1e11e9

Lastly, what do you use to send the signal to the car to stop? Is it done with the throttle lever on the remote control? Is this somehow programmable?

As I said, newbie questions. If anyone could point me in the right direction, that would be much appreciated.

Thanks
 
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