Glitch!!

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atom3624

atom3624

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Cold, wet, windy St Helens, U.K.
Hi there.
My truck has a problem.
Up until about 2 months' ago, it was running as well as I could expect.
I stashed it away for a couple of weeks, then felt like 'a petrol fix' and brought it out.
I switched on the the Tx, connected the Rx battery, then switched on the Rx - I have 2x Rhinos for the steering and 2x Savox 1256TG (1 for throttle / layshaft brake, 1 on the other side for the KPD hydros on the front).
Apart from some slight 'movement' the servos were perfect.
I have a simple 'Voltwatch' 7(?) LED battery charge indicator, and this remained on the top green indicator.
BUT ...
When I start the engine, the Voltwatch starts behaving very erratically - engine is a bit smokey also. It can indicate RED, then revert to top GREEN, then to RED, ... during this time, the servos also move a little more, but the RED is not coinciding with 'extreme servo movement' as if it's the servos taking charge that's lowering the supply voltage.

I read a similar thread a few weeks back that ended up being a simple replacement for a 'R' plug, which the guy hadn't been using.

I'm using NGK 'R' Iridium plugs. I've had a '8', which is a colder plug, so could possibly mean the oil/petrol isn't being ignited fully ... I've replaced with a new '6' (hotter) 'R' Iridium plug, but on first fire-up I'm getting a similar display, and exaggerated movement of the servos.

Is it possible it is carbon build-up? The removed plug was 'wet' even after a few days and very sooty.

The new '6' plug (I bought a couple of '7' Iridiums also which is the standard heat plug) was drier. I fired up, but in view of the Voltwatch indications, I held up the rears and revved that way.
Bearing in mind I have a DDM high end Dominator installed, it's 'kin' LOUD, so despite revving up for a minute or so, I didn't fancy burning off half a tank in this position.

My thoughts are that IF it's carbon build up, a hotter new plug, and a slightly leaned mixture should permit eventual burn off. As it's a 'new condition' it shouldn't be that bad, if it is carbon - that's what I'm thinking.

Do any of you have any similar experiences, or what do you think?

I'll give the half tank static burn off a go, neighbours permitting this weekend.
Al.
 
I have never tried it myself, but have often wondered, what anout a cap full of redex or similar additive to clean the engine out?

has anyone had any experience with redex in a 2-stroke engine?
 
dude i had exactly same prob, i tried all sorts, even to the extreme of getting a new reciever! (but its ok i have a spare one now! lol)

in the end It was the obvious thing that i didnt even think of checking! my battery packs! (i had 2 & both were dodgy, bad luck eh!) the wires were dodgy, when the engine was off, the servos worked fine, with no problems, when i started my engine, then my servos would behave abnormal...even some times going WOT when i didint want to so had to slam on my brake!

Reason being was the vibrations from my engine must have been making my battery pack lose contact on the solderin, maybe the solder had come lose? who knows, But when i got a new battery as my last rersort, hey presto... the prob had gone! ..so because of 2 dodgy battery packs (mind you they were failry old & i was in need of new ones) i eneded up stripping down all my electrics, making my own connectors & even a new reciever...in the end it was a £15 job for a new battery pack!
 
I was thinking about the battery pack.
I've changed the position, and gone to a 5Ah hump pack - but it's fairly close to the exhaust - there is a 1cm gap and I've protected it in insulation tape and heatshrink tubing.
I tried the battery out static without any problem. You could be right with the vibration. I was suspecting a loose wire somewhere.

I've the old flat pack - the hump was only purchased (off Ebay, a real bargain !!) through space requirements - which is still fine, so will try that and let you all know.
Al.
 
Just attached my volt meter and tugged and wobbled the battery - seems OK.
My old one is charged up anyway, so I'll try testing with the old one tomorrow - and perhaps try the suggested burn off ...
Alan.
 
aye mine seemed ok when engine was off, & tried what you did, shaking it about etc so thats why i didint think of it again, but after everything else i tried, i then bought a new pack.. & then it worked with no problems, guess theres alot of vibes going through the pack when the engine is on ^^ lol

g/luck anyway dude, for me it was fkin annoying trying to figure it out! let us know how u get on fella ;)
 
my servos where both going crazy, an i found it was a dodgy servo wire, it had a nick in it... Another time it was machanical vibration ,where i found that the foam i packed around my receiver had moved... On the other subject i've used the s.d.p carb an engine cleaner, but on our small engines it is best just to remove carbon build up with a brush...fault finding can be a pain, but u will find somthing that may not be obvious straight away.. Good luck. An don't let it do your nut..
 
Big thanks to everyone for your encouragement and ideas.
It's 'suddenly happened' as opposed to has started to happen and has gradually got worse, which I suppose favours an electrical / wiring problem of some sort.
If I have any real news, I'll top up this thread.
Thanks,
Al.
 
im getting a bit of glitch problem aint got what id call a good range im using sanwa gemini 2 with a hitec reciever not sure on model unless i open up radio box on car i put brand new xtals in last week had to get genuine sanwa ones as others would not work at all when cars runnig close its all fine no problems as soon as i give it a bit of range i get a bit of a glitchy moment it steers loses throttle the sorts it self out i cant find any problem im using a iridium cr7hix im going to try a cmr7h next time im out as i don't think it done it when i was using that plug also battery pack in car is as new not that old no lose wires ect im a bit lost
 
i would actually be suspect of the volt watch itself causing your issue. these units are typically made for the nitro community. which don't have coils. im willing to bet the coil is causing interferance via the voltwatch (as its not a shielded item) which is allowing the glitch.

take the Volt Watch out of the loop and see if you have the issue yet.

i HIGHLY doubt anything to do with the motor will effect your servos with the exception of the plug/coil. or if say a linkage is rubbing somewhere on the motor, like a brake linkage ect..

check all wires for nicks or splits as the coating is a shielded coating on the wires. so if its cracked or otherwise open, the actual wire is UN Shielded in that spot. allowing for interferance.


Hi there.
My truck has a problem.
Up until about 2 months' ago, it was running as well as I could expect.
I stashed it away for a couple of weeks, then felt like 'a petrol fix' and brought it out.
I switched on the the Tx, connected the Rx battery, then switched on the Rx - I have 2x Rhinos for the steering and 2x Savox 1256TG (1 for throttle / layshaft brake, 1 on the other side for the KPD hydros on the front).
Apart from some slight 'movement' the servos were perfect.
I have a simple 'Voltwatch' 7(?) LED battery charge indicator, and this remained on the top green indicator.
BUT ...
When I start the engine, the Voltwatch starts behaving very erratically - engine is a bit smokey also. It can indicate RED, then revert to top GREEN, then to RED, ... during this time, the servos also move a little more, but the RED is not coinciding with 'extreme servo movement' as if it's the servos taking charge that's lowering the supply voltage.

Does your radio have a built in Failsafe? when the vw gets into the red, the onboard failsafe, may be engauging, or beginning to, which will want to move servos to the failsafe postion?

I read a similar thread a few weeks back that ended up being a simple replacement for a 'R' plug, which the guy hadn't been using.

I'm using NGK 'R' Iridium plugs. I've had a '8', which is a colder plug, so could possibly mean the oil/petrol isn't being ignited fully ... I've replaced with a new '6' (hotter) 'R' Iridium plug, but on first fire-up I'm getting a similar display, and exaggerated movement of the servos.

Is it possible it is carbon build-up? The removed plug was 'wet' even after a few days and very sooty. I would Highly doubt carbon buildup has anything to do with your issues. its just build up on the piston, and in no way, should/could effect servo funtion.

The new '6' plug (I bought a couple of '7' Iridiums also which is the standard heat plug) was drier. I fired up, but in view of the Voltwatch indications, I held up the rears and revved that way.
Bearing in mind I have a DDM high end Dominator installed, it's 'kin' LOUD, so despite revving up for a minute or so, I didn't fancy burning off half a tank in this position.

My thoughts are that IF it's carbon build up, a hotter new plug, and a slightly leaned mixture should permit eventual burn off. As it's a 'new condition' it shouldn't be that bad, if it is carbon - that's what I'm thinking. This will effectively help remove the carbon build up, but its not the cause of your servo glitches, but is good for the motor performance, or bad if a piece of the carbon comes off and gets between the ring and cylinder. its best to clean the carbon off with a wire brush and a flushing of the entire motor to wash away all leftover pieces from the brushing.

Do any of you have any similar experiences, or what do you think?

I'll give the half tank static burn off a go, neighbours permitting this weekend.
Al.
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
UPDATE - Tuesday 04/05/2010.

This is an update.
1. I've received and FITTED a Killer Bee v2S.5 Kill switch - bells and whistles I know - works perfectly. Tested with KB kill switch and by switching off the Tx. Both 100%
2. Selection of v2S.5 was as I'd bought a 2.4 GHz radio set off Fleabay and wanted to fit that, but wanted to avoid 'Spektrum-like- problems.
3. Re-checked all wiring. Tested batteries - Tx and Rx (actually 4500mAh from Fleabay) fine and all connections.
4. Replaced Voltwatch with new one - less than a fiver.
5. Reset the failsafe - seemed OK but wasn't paying too much attention - see later.
6. After fully reassembled with 2.4GHz, switched on. Steering perfect. Signal much better than Hitec Agressor and more stable. Throttle / brake - REVERSED!! :cursing::cursing::omg:
This meant that the failsafe had been set - FOR FULL THROTTLE!!
I tried and tried in the menus, sub menus - NOTHING COMING. It's clearly stated as Left, when the steering and 3rd channel are Right.
The instruction manual's a software translation from Chinese to English - no offence but I can understand perhaps 10 out of 30 words!! No mention of reversing polarity ...
I put the Hitec back in.
7. I avoided putting in the Hobbythek power transfer cabling that permits full power to the servos, the Rx only giving the signal, as Bigger the Better reminded me Rhinos are sensitive.
I have 2x Rhinos, 2x Savox 1256TG.
8. Just did a static run - no engine. Seemed fine.
9. I changed the plug to a '6' from a '8' - Iridium CR6HIX - so it is a resistor plug.
10. I very slightly leaned the engine, about 1 1/8, 1 1/8 on a Walbro 813 running fine. The CR8HIX I pulled out was wet, but I'd done a few quick runs to keep the engine 'ticking over'.
11. After full servo check, Tx batteries fine, Rx 6.60V, I fired up. The Voltwatch started it's little 'trick' again - going to red, to green, to red, then the servos start going to full, then back, then full. I switch off. I fire up after a full check and hold the revs a midrange (this is with a DDM high range Dominator, so it's painfully LOUD !!!!) and it seems to clear for a bit. ...
12. It goes back to red, green, red, then the servos stay full on longer.
13. I switch off, disconnect, then reconnect, and NOTHING!!!

I THINK THE PROBLEMS WITH THE RADIO GEAR.
I've got the Killer Bee v2S.5 so it is made for the Spektrum and I have a DX3.0 I use with my Raminator. I've ordered a SR300 off Modelsport and will fit that.
There are no strange 'electrical odours' or signs of smoke - certainly none from the servos, so I THINK (HOPE !!) they are OK.
Do you think the Rx can handle 2x Rhinos and 2x Savox 1256TG's (20kg/cm - ~280oz/in at 6V) ?
Do you think I SHOULD fit the Hobbythek wiring harness to permit power directly from the battery to the servos, and not via the Rx?
As the servos were obviously more stable with the Chinese thing, it did 'give a sign'.

WHAT DO YOU THINK?
Alan.
 
I will fit the wiring harness, but also a LRP 6V/10A voltage stabiliser.
Should have it all licked with that.
I'm hoping / guessing that I fried the Hitec receiver with the 4 servos.
it seemed fine with the cheapo Chinese 2.4GHz setup I couldn't find the reverse polarity to ... pain. Will probably find it in time!!
Alan.
 
TUT TUT Al you get what you pay for in this game:boat:

always buy the best why spend loads on your servos and then :nono:skimp

on your radio....always use thick wire mate

i have 3 rhinos on each of of me 2 MCD's.....and use the kcr wiring harness

expensive but good....
 
Learning curve mate !!
You reckon it's true then, that the Hitec's fried - no action at all - because of the 4 high power servos?
The 'bypass harness and 6V regulator' will sort it out?

I've got an SR300 to install and tag onto the DX3.0 I have for the Raminator.

May have to be careful with the Raminator - I've got twin Airtronics Monster torque servos on the steering - 2x 423 oz in !! Turns the wheels OK !!
Just what is the current draw of the Rhinos and Savox's - anyone know?
Thanks,
Al.
 
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