going alum.?

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kryptonite5b

kryptonite5b

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is any one going alum. for the suspension arms on the MT? i cant imagine all the plastic holding up too well with those HUGE tires. whats the outcome of the over-all durability of the suspension arms and components.. not shocks, just plastic. except for my on-road fg, i have had no real reason to upgrade, but im thinking it may be a good investment


ragecarnage002.webp
 
I have upgraded to aluminum things that have broken and in your case, I would deffinetly upgrade, providing the parts you are putting in have replacable bushings inthe pivot points. I have a all aluminum FG MB Pro, and I just replaced all the bushings they wear out.


So yes, upgrade, but you must understand that it won't break there again, where will it break?
 
Clubin said:
I have upgraded to aluminum things that have broken and in your case, I would deffinetly upgrade, providing the parts you are putting in have replacable bushings inthe pivot points. I have a all aluminum FG MB Pro, and I just replaced all the bushings they wear out.
So yes, upgrade, but you must understand that it won't break there again, where will it break?
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im with you:cool:


you need a cheep part as a week point


because you will crash, and it will brake
 
understandable but jay, those HUGE tires makes everything a weak point. and whats the next weak link? the bulk head, diff case?.. it has multible screw points and the pins have alum. housings. when a suspension arm breaks, it puts alot of stress on other parts too, like shock shaft and shock ends and so on. if your intire suspension set-up is alum. where is the weak point? hardware, suspension pins.. they are going to need to take some serius hits. basic un-even landings and cart-wheels are not going to be effected with alum.
 
Thing is with those big tires alloy arms will bend if you whack into something or cartwheel a few times. I kept the front end of my fg plastic while everything else is alloy just because it's the first point of contact.


People here have been having good success in boiling the plastic to make it less brittle.
 
mooman007uk said:
Thing is with those big tires alloy arms will bend if you whack into something or cartwheel a few times. I kept the front end of my fg plastic while everything else is alloy just because it's the first point of contact.
People here have been having good success in boiling the plastic to make it less brittle.
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Do you have proof of boiling the arms actually changes anything inthe plastic? I can't see how it would work, since if you put the plastic into boiling water the boiling water isn't even close to the melting temp of the plastic-how could that change anything? Just wondering, I have herd many people that have done it and always wondered why. I have never done it.
 
i don't really think the alum. is soft enough to bend. has any one seen it bend? and how hard of a hit was that? the only thing i have thats alum. is my fg on-road. i have hit solid walls at full throttle. i haven't bent anything, and its been thru the ringer. boiling parts is a myth. scientifical theary. looks great on paper, but the only thing that holds water is the pot
 
boiling parts have worked for me as for alum. something has to be able to break or bend and if you have nothing but alum. it will get tweaked some way some how.
 
hopefully all my alum gets in tomorrow with my new body. i ordered all alum lower arms and alum stearing mount. just not sure what to do with the 4 sets of plastic arms.. hmm?
 
kryptonite said:
i don't really think the alum. is soft enough to bend. has any one seen it bend? and how hard of a hit was that? the only thing i have thats alum. is my fg on-road. i have hit solid walls at full throttle. i haven't bent anything, and its been thru the ringer. boiling parts is a myth. scientifical theary. looks great on paper, but the only thing that holds water is the pot
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There is some science behind boiling plastic, especially nylon. Boiling relieves stresses and rehydrates making it more durable...no old wives tale about it...there is much info if you google it
 
mooman007uk said:
There is some science behind boiling plastic, especially nylon. Boiling relieves stresses and rehydrates making it more durable...no old wives tale about it...there is much info if you google it
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i haven't googled it yet, but i will. my experiance with boiling was short lived.. it got boiled, it got broke. and i heard this for 2 weeks from wifey. YOU CAN COOK RC PARTS? BUT YOU CANT COOK DINNER? :D :D:D
 
im going to get the rest of the alum. suspension in a few weeks. still have to get upper arms and rear hubs and that should be it.. its nice knowing your not going to brake something just putsing around..


morestuff009.webp


morestuff011.webp
 
Clubin said:
Yea, that does look good, are the aluminum parts bushed? Do they have nylon bushings pressed into the pivot points?
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unfortanitly, NO!! kinda discouraged. i was afraid to ask when you mentioned it on your first post. thinking that if i "new" they don't have bushings i wouldnt buy them. but other then that they look great, and fit perfect i like to 2 tone color, just doesn't match anything. i also got my new (free) shell from redcat and it is way better then the first one, but time will tell. it took some nice hits without cracking. the first one cracked just siting their
 
Would anyone know or have a pic of just the chassis? I thinks I might have bent mine right where it narrows at the front dif. Didn't notice it before but the whoops today were frozen dirt and ice in between them:eek:
 
its an ever so slight pitch right? your fine. i noticed that the day i took it out of the box. its so slight that i wonder why they even bothered. always check the rear of the chassis, couse thats were it will bend first do to wieght transfer on impact.. i have bent many chassis and they all bend in the back(except 5b)
 
COOL, thanks Krypt.....I thrashed her pretty bad and she was all muddy so when I was cleaning her I noticed it.....guess the alum chassis stiffener is in the future....
 
mooman007uk said:
mine bent a touch just behind the servos where the cut out is for the gearcase, it's about 1.5mm out from there to the kick up at the front and i got the alu brace so it bent beyond it. Doesn't hurt it any though.
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oh ya, just looed at that on mine. looks like it would bend there too.. damn.
 
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