Guys, im breaking in a new head upgrade. But everytime i want to start the engine after the cool down, the pull start is so hard to pull, it feels like kind of stuck something. I checked the pullstart and is ok. Icant make it start because i cant pull properly because is so dm hard.
Help with starting engine
- Thread starter MikeRC
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #2
removed the spark plug and the piston moves freely. put it back, and again, very hard to pull. removed air filter and still hard.
I was going to start the 4 stage of the engine break in. The first 3 at first, it was hard to pull, but eventually got softer and it started. But now it is imposible.
Im breaking in the 28.5cc head kit in a stock dbxl engine.
I was going to start the 4 stage of the engine break in. The first 3 at first, it was hard to pull, but eventually got softer and it started. But now it is imposible.
Im breaking in the 28.5cc head kit in a stock dbxl engine.
nitrocat
Well-Known Member
Put your foot on one rear wheel when you pull starter and make sure the piston is down
If it runs its ok
If it runs its ok
tmrperformance
Well-Known Member
Mikerc had a good suggestion, if the coil slid down it can make it hard to pull and impossible to start.. Id start there, if u feel there could be something seriously wrong and as much as u may not want to ,u may wanna rip the top end back off and examine it. Also check the crank bearings at this point,many times with bad bearings,the engine spins fine with the plug out but horrible with it in... Not claiming that 2 be the issue but worth looking into if u do a tare down...
As for the "break in procedures" go, i do NOT believe in them . here is all u need to do..
Start the carb at about 1-1/4 on the low and 2 on the high, tune the low as needed for proper idle along with idle screw. Get the engine operating temperature,which should be lets say 3 mins of un and down the street cruising with occasional bliping of the throttle. As soon as its hot, start beating it and setting the best tune possible. Once u feel u have the perfect tune , drive it like its a rental!!! These are engines that have a smooth cylinder and nothing for the ring to wear to other than the ports its passing. For proper ring seal they like to be run hard. Any engine i ran on my dyno was punished the 2nd it was heat cycled and ive never had a an engine issue due to poor break in.. An engine that is poorly broken in is an engine that was babied and not beaten.
As for the "break in procedures" go, i do NOT believe in them . here is all u need to do..
Start the carb at about 1-1/4 on the low and 2 on the high, tune the low as needed for proper idle along with idle screw. Get the engine operating temperature,which should be lets say 3 mins of un and down the street cruising with occasional bliping of the throttle. As soon as its hot, start beating it and setting the best tune possible. Once u feel u have the perfect tune , drive it like its a rental!!! These are engines that have a smooth cylinder and nothing for the ring to wear to other than the ports its passing. For proper ring seal they like to be run hard. Any engine i ran on my dyno was punished the 2nd it was heat cycled and ive never had a an engine issue due to poor break in.. An engine that is poorly broken in is an engine that was babied and not beaten.
- Thread starter
- #6
Thanks for the answers.
I removed the pullstart, and i tried to move the flywheel, and it turns ok, a little hard when the piston goes up. Im going to open now the engine. Also i will check the cluth.
I was doing the last stage of the break in, where the engine is run almost at full throttle. I noticed that it had a small delay when i accelerated in the low end. Then after one almost full throttle pass, the engine stoped, i tought i got out of fuel, so checked and it was almost empty. Filled again and the tried to start but the pullstart was really hard. It was a minute or 2 that passed since it stoped and tried to start again, and it was already hard to pull. I didnt leave the stock needle settings beacuse it was too rich to drive, so since the first stage of breaking i tuned the low end needle, until the engine stoped gargling. Someone asked me if i let the piston down when coooling down, and i didnt do that. Could be that i sezied the engine?
I removed the pullstart, and i tried to move the flywheel, and it turns ok, a little hard when the piston goes up. Im going to open now the engine. Also i will check the cluth.
I was doing the last stage of the break in, where the engine is run almost at full throttle. I noticed that it had a small delay when i accelerated in the low end. Then after one almost full throttle pass, the engine stoped, i tought i got out of fuel, so checked and it was almost empty. Filled again and the tried to start but the pullstart was really hard. It was a minute or 2 that passed since it stoped and tried to start again, and it was already hard to pull. I didnt leave the stock needle settings beacuse it was too rich to drive, so since the first stage of breaking i tuned the low end needle, until the engine stoped gargling. Someone asked me if i let the piston down when coooling down, and i didnt do that. Could be that i sezied the engine?
tmrperformance
Well-Known Member
The engine could be shot yes ,anything is possible. But lets stay positive lol.. And as far as the piston being down during cooling, thats b.s... Maybe they meant bottom dead center for starting easier? Thats all i can think of by that. The tune is critical on these engines and if u are on the "lean" side and run outta fuel, u can cause damage
- Thread starter
- #8
i think i found the cause. Removed the engine from car and the gasket of the cilinder head is teared, a big piece, and there is a gap where that piece was. I will post a pic.
When that gasket was teared, the engine keeps running for a few moments?, or it stops inmediately?
I ask beacuse i read somehwere that when there is a leak air gets in and the engine runs lean.
What could cause the failure of the gasket? it was the gasket that came with the kit. Or maybe the fail of the gasket was caused by another issue?
Im going to continue cheking all parts for tears or breaks.
When that gasket was teared, the engine keeps running for a few moments?, or it stops inmediately?
I ask beacuse i read somehwere that when there is a leak air gets in and the engine runs lean.
What could cause the failure of the gasket? it was the gasket that came with the kit. Or maybe the fail of the gasket was caused by another issue?
Im going to continue cheking all parts for tears or breaks.
tmrperformance
Well-Known Member
Those silver flimsy gaskets are junk, never liked them. I use copper with loctite 518 sealant especially on a 2 bolt. Pull that apart and inspect everything thoroughly