Home made rotor start

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Seems to work ok. I like the ease of drill starters but hate the thought of having to carry a drill everywhere. I wish there was a pullstarter that had a drill start option.
 
rotostarts are kool don't get me wrong, but i personally don't see the need for them and think there more off a hinderens, as its one more thing to carry around, and if ur car stools in the feild/track or near a friend, unless he has a drill to start your car again, only you will bable to start it
 
If you need to pull on your starter more than 3 times on a regular basis, you have a problem somewhere else...

When I had my 813 carb, when everything was running well, it still took many pulls to start when the engine was cold. Since changing over to the 990, it always starts by the 2nd or 3rd pull...
 
roto start

The nut is supposed to be tightenrd to about 12 ft pounds torque. The flywheel -crank is a tapered fit with a keyway. soft metal-hard steel. the flywheel could over time could have cracks, spinning at very high rpms, it could become a grenade. If the drill fit on the flywheel the same way the recoil starter fit- I would not sweat it. Just an Alfred guess -- When I mount the flywheels on these cars, I lap fit these 2 parts with a small amount of valve grinding compound- Just 4-5 light turns - remove, clean, and reassemble. Not really required, but its just how I do it.
 
krashkrieg said:
If you need to pull on your starter more than 3 times on a regular basis, you have a problem somewhere else...When I had my 813 carb, when everything was running well, it still took many pulls to start when the engine was cold. Since changing over to the 990, it always starts by the 2nd or 3rd pull...
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What kind of engine do you have? I have a OBR pro stock 30.5 . According to the OBR guys my engine was design a bit heavy on the pull for more torque. A 990 on a OBR requires a lot of pull to get your engine to start on a cold start. Let me tell you my right hand is bleeding from the pulley's handle and my body ache all over from yesterday. I got it to start but it drain the heck out of me. Once it starts and warm up, a single pull or two will get it started. Your thoughts?
 
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starting

Some members have better luck lighting off a cold 990 equipped engine than others. If any Wt series carb is in correct working order, you can push the primer bulb all day and it will not prime the engine- put fuel into the intake. It only pushes fuel back into the gas tank tru the upper fuel hose.- You can remove the carb off the engine with the fuel lines attached and pump the bulb and see for yourself. Some people put there thumb on the exhaust and roll the engine over to prime. I never tried this - so I cannot vouch for it- Its worth a try though! ME? I never screw around, I bought a cheap bottle of Nasel spray. empty the bottle, put about 1/4" of premix in the bottle. put the misting cap back on. Hold the plastic bottle away from you and others- mist it in the air- just to know what it looks like- O.K? Remove the spark plug, turn the car at about a 45 degree angle- sideways. with all electronics off, pull the starter rope and squirt about 4-5 shots of misted fuel in the engine. replace the plug- and start it. The bottle cannot be used upside down- it will just squirt raw fuel- you want a fine mist- BEWARE! do NOT let anyone get there hands on this bottle! - Dump it out when you are done. just a thought- and it works for me every time- I pull the starter rope about 5-6"- and the engine lights off.
 
alfred e numan said:
Some members have better luck lighting off a cold 990 equipped engine than others. If any Wt series carb is in correct working order, you can push the primer bulb all day and it will not prime the engine- put fuel into the intake. It only pushes fuel back into the gas tank tru the upper fuel hose.- You can remove the carb off the engine with the fuel lines attached and pump the bulb and see for yourself. Some people put there thumb on the exhaust and roll the engine over to prime. I never tried this - so I cannot vouch for it- Its worth a try though! ME? I never screw around, I bought a cheap bottle of Nasel spray. empty the bottle, put about 1/4" of premix in the bottle. put the misting cap back on. Hold the plastic bottle away from you and others- mist it in the air- just to know what it looks like- O.K? Remove the spark plug, turn the car at about a 45 degree angle- sideways. with all electronics off, pull the starter rope and squirt about 4-5 shots of misted fuel in the engine. replace the plug- and start it. The bottle cannot be used upside down- it will just squirt raw fuel- you want a fine mist- BEWARE! do NOT let anyone get there hands on this bottle! - Dump it out when you are done. just a thought- and it works for me every time- I pull the starter rope about 5-6"- and the engine lights off.
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I have a clear fuel line so when I primer the engine I can see fuel moving. I just think the weight of the OBR pull and the amount of required pulling for a 990 to start the engine is what's killing me.
 
Do you just grab the handle and pull? I pull the handle gently until it engages and then give it a solid yank. The engine turns over pretty easily, that way.
 
Deluge said:
Do you just grab the handle and pull? I pull the handle gently until it engages and then give it a solid yank. The engine turns over pretty easily, that way.
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Yep, tried that too... but base on my experience with my engine is, its a matter of consistency regarding the pull. I understand what you're saying though :D It's the pulling that gives me the blister and my fingers feels like they are about to come off :(
 
Guys, I bought a rotor start from Ebay. Installed it. Still need to test it... will upload pic and test it ASAP. Will let you guys know how it goes.
 
I should of listen!!!

I bought this and it started to chew out my fly wheel because when I stop the engine, the spinning plate inside the rotor starter will bang up with the fly wheel's plate. This cause significant impact with a loud ding and it made small dents. I'd imagine it will destroy my fly wheel if I continue so I uninstalled it and put in my stock pull start with a steel rope mod. :( Please tell me what you guys think....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HPI-Baja-5b-5T-SS-5sc-roto-start-conversion-no-pulling-black-billet-worldwide-/220929281374?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3370694d5e
 
honestly the roto starts tend to be a hassle..gota carry a drill and if the drill dies ur screwed and cant start.....its to bad they don't make the ez pull pullstarters that come on the gp420/60 for the smaller motors there a breeze to start and a very light pull
 
Deluge said:
Bummer. Can't say I'm surprised, though. Try to get your cash back, or count it as a loss and move on.
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I got my cash back but lost money on shipping :( I heard the skunk rotor start was pretty good too :D any thoughts on that brand?
 
dozer187 said:
honestly the roto starts tend to be a hassle..gota carry a drill and if the drill dies ur screwed and cant start.....its to bad they don't make the ez pull pullstarters that come on the gp420/60 for the smaller motors there a breeze to start and a very light pull
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I agree :D But note that my OBR pro stock was design a bit heavy on the pull start for more torque according to one of the OBR guys :D
 
ChuenouXiao said:
I got my cash back but lost money on shipping :( I heard the skunk rotor start was pretty good too :D any thoughts on that brand?
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I've never tried it. I know some people have had bearing issues with it. Honestly, if you're willing to drop $160+ on a starter, why not go with the TR V2 pullstart? LargeScaleRC still has them at the intro price.

Heavy Duty V2 Pull Start Assembly - By Turtle Racing
 
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