How Did Standard Trim Serve You??

[dc2 man]

ok lads i need as much opinions as i can get here,i need to find out what is the most relibale car (model) largescale eg fg,mcd,hpi,firehammer,carson,or whatever u got in standard trim?
i think this is a good starting point in debating build quality from factory.
ok my fg beetle history are as follows
1- 1 hour-diff breaking up,seperating from case,common fault! replaced with alloy.
2- 2 hours max runtime,spur gears melting and pinions slipping,replaced with steel.
3-diff mounts melting and ruining another new diff shield,new alloy ones again
4-max 5 hours runtime wishbones destroyed and engine mounts failing causing broken gears and moving of engine, all replaced.
5-i am talking of lot of hours now at this point just on self repairs alone,and money on internet ordering parts,and the anoyance of waiting for the parts.
6-front end hubbs cracking and falling off (pretty much) all replaced alloy.
7- all the above was max 5 hours runtime,and complemented with about 8 new servos,just driving on roads and fields annd beach
8-now i come to my most hated moment with the car,how many times (for no aparent reason)even with good understanding and lots of new failsafes did this car for no reason take of on a mad out of control rampage of distruction and destroy loads of new parts that i already had to replace with just a few hours runtime, ahhhhhhhh
8-went out of control again and destroyed rear wing and cracked body,REPLACED YET AGAIN NEW!!
9- fg standard a load of ####
SO FG BEETLE STANDARD TRIM ill give it 2 out of ten then.now as its alloy prob ten out of ten.
my point is to find out which large scale company set out (in standard trim) with the best build design and quality from factory (out of the box)
let me know yer experiencs on this one guys!
we have to think about the budget concious large scalers who cannot afford all the alloy thats needed to upgrade to.at least not straight after there purchace.

 

[Crazy Beetle]

ok lads im after thinking of a new topic for now i need as much opinions as i can get here,i need to find out what is the most relibale car (model) largescale eg fg,mcd,hpi,firehammer,carson,or whatever u got in standard trim?
i think this is a good starting point in debating build quality from factory.
ok my fg beetle history are as follows
1- 1 hour-diff breaking up,seperating from case,common fault! replaced with alloy.
2- 2 hours max runtime,spur gears melting and pinions slipping,replaced with steel.
3-diff mounts melting and ruining another new diff shield,new alloy ones again
4-max 5 hours runtime wishbones destroyed and engine mounts failing causing broken gears and moving of engine, all replaced.
5-i am talking of lot of hours now at this point just on self repairs alone,and money on internet ordering parts,and the anoyance of waiting for the parts.
6-front end hubbs cracking and falling off (pretty much) all replaced alloy.
7- all the above was max 5 hours runtime,and complemented with about 8 new servos,just driving on roads and fields annd beach
8-now i come to my most hated moment with the car,how many times (for no aparent reason)even with good understanding and lots of new failsafes did this car for no reason take of on a mad out of control rampage of distruction and destroy loads of new parts that i already had to replace with just a few hours runtime, ahhhhhhhh
8-went out of control again and destroyed rear wing and cracked body,REPLACED YET AGAIN NEW!!
9- fg standard a load of ####
SO FG BEETLE STANDARD TRIM ill give it 2 out of ten then.now as its alloy prob ten out of ten.
my point is to find out which large scale company set out (in standard trim) with the best build design and quality from factory (out of the box)
let me know yer experiencs on this one guys!
we have to think about the budget concious large scalers who cannot afford all the alloy thats needed to upgrade to.at least not straight after there purchace.

Ypu can wish in one hand and crao in the other and then see whitch get´s full first.

you won´t find an Large SCale car that holds right out of the box.
at least not if you are on a budget.

the only cars that probobly will hold right out og the box without ay option parts is lautherbacher super cross, harm bx2 or the Elcon Cleon.
these 3 cars are mosty built from aluminim and sholud hold together quite well.
so far i haven't testet My Cleon but i am pretty shure it will hold a wile befor it ned to change some parts

 

[Bigger the Better]

I agree with above. You will find no economical bullet proof 1/5 scale. Consumers would not buy in large quantities a 1/5 scale at the cost of the above mentioned models, $2,000 and above. Heck, some complain about the cheap ones being too much. Remember the expensive 1/4 scalers? Everyone wanted one but it just was too much to affard for most.
After all said and done you probably should of bought a competition model FG if you had the cash up front. Most don't and do exactly what you did, buy and upgrade it as it breaks.
The parts you call out that broke on your model are the same for most 1/5 scale owners with most all the other brands just in a slightly different way.

Bottom line, its a cost thing. We all would like bullet proof, but our wallets can only afford the "Budget Model" and installments there after, and there after, and there after, and there after, and there after.......

 

[dc2 man]

i get you btb yes but my point is that some models out of the box must and "are" more relibale than my one were,i mean surely be to god out of the box it should run for at least a few weeks.....

mine was pretty much breaking on break in.... lol

 

[Bigger the Better]

Ya, I know what you mean there. It seems if I don't buy the extended warranty for items I buy its mine that ends up being the lemon made on Friday.

 

[Crazy Beetle]

the problmes you mention is problems that hang with the monster models.
the large Monster wheels puts heavy strain on every part in the suspemsion.
the probme you ave with ou diff is easy so solv, Elcon meka a stainless steel tube for the diff. whit that and a alu diff hpousing it is almost bullet proff.
if you have an issu of breaking the diff outdrives. go to someone that hase al lathe and ask if they can make a ring that you can crimp on the outrives, this will stopp them from spreading and eventualy break.
but the m ain problems are the BIG Tyres and the RIMS.

there are tons of small tricks that can make you care hold up better.

i always use som tireglue on the treads in plastic parts.
i always use washers under screwheads and nuts.
the first thing to do when you come home with a new FG is to put waskers under the ball limke on the front and rear spindels.
use waskeres taht are wider than the ball link i tself. this will stop the ball from moving around and eventualy rip the treads out of the steering spindels.
if you spend som time on the car and just do small things it will hold up very well.

 

[dc2 man]

amm crazy beetle thanks for the advice but i have sorted out the diff prolems ages ago the whole lo is indistructable now. all alloy,mounts all steel diff, it was just useless in standard trim...
im just trying to point out how poor build they are out of the box!

 

[mooman007uk]

as BtB said all models have their own issues, reliability is really down to who's driving it and how they drive...hard or putt putt around, so it' really an apples and oranges thing.
I'd have to say at a guess that the on road cars would be the most reliable cos they're not on all terrians getting the snot bashed out of them:hammer:
As crazy beetle says the high end race prepped cars probably have the fewest issues but i guarentee that if bashed mercilessly and endo'd and barrel rolled at speed (seen my fgbaja do a few dozen of those) some alloy parts are going to bend.
I just expect my stuff to break, everything I've ever owned from dirt bikes to my old, but not forgotten, 500hp , 40 inch bogger tire'd cj7 I built from frame up still broke when i gave them some welly. I seem to have spent most of my hobby time over the past 30yrs buying stuff, waiting for parts...building stuff...breaking it...waiting for parts and fixing it

 

[Shiny]

I have the Carson Gas Devil my only problem withe it was it being an RTR. Cheap elecronikes and the firt thing whent rong is the fail safe will I apgrades the elecronicks (radio servoes resever fail safe).
Another miner issu was scrous coming lose. A rebeld withe a lot of lock tite fixed that.
I have upgraded to alloy difis befor thy brak and other things like engine mountes U-drive shaftes diiff mount and others are alloy now.
Cheap is bad quakity. expensive is god quakity.
Things may loke the same but ther is areason whay one is alost towic as expensive.
Gode quality come from beter material equipmend and pepol how do the belt, not to foget testig and fixing any issues found. It costes mony and that mony thw costomer payes plus profit.

 

[dc2 man]

yeah all ok but i think you all are missing the point,any companys selling these large scale cars and fg themselves sell them as relibale production models out of the box.the reason plastic is used and is (extremly good quality) to keep down the weight lads,i mean not everybody wants all alloy at the end of the day,i mean personally i do i think no comparison at the end of the day between plastic and alloy,my point being the stock out of the box fgs arnt supposed to be so fuken crap,and do u mean to tell me that fg couldnt make these cars relibale with such tough plastics,i think they are a rip off,i mean fg couldnt even make the diff cope in plastic,a diff is a simple item that shouldnt have any pressure to deal with only the internal gears,(bad design i think of a diff)now im years with 1/5 th up yo 1/10th scale nitro and even the smallest of nitro cars plastic parts including diffs can last for years and are under as much if not more strain but scaled down,look at my traxxas revo example pure trouble free out of the box to this day and i have it 2years,maybe few diff gears now and then but u wouldnt mind that,i mean look fg cant even build a chassis out of the factory suitable to handle largescale engines without them practilly vibrating out of the car,look my point is (i don't mind upgrading,its fun and part of the hobby)but its not what i payed for!! all this alloy shouldnt be needed either to make these cars relibale,it adds on a load of weight,think about this,my standard beetle out of the box had a all plastic trim and 26cc,good power to weight ratio right? now all the car is alloy,great yes but maybe i need a 35cc engine from mars or someplace that will make up the same power to weight ratio,the weight differnce is outrageous,and it is a bit of a pain to have to go and buy everything alloy cause at the end of the day its not what you bought,u bought the car PLASTIC and taught at the time(well i did) that1200euro was more than enough for a car with a two stroke engine,and should have at least taken some bit of punishment before needing alloy upgrades.

 

[mooman007uk]

As soon as i put sts engines in my tmaxx and savage I chewed driveline parts every run...i ended up with a xl t-maxx with alot of UE parts inc 8spider diffs, mip cvds, otb metal trannie gears rr spur i had alot of cash in that pos...it still broke so parted it on ebay, my xl savage had all steel 3sp trannie, mips, cen diffs, losi shocks and that still broke...ebay again...the best, most reliable nitro was my LST which i still regret selling...with rpm arms tini gearset and no reverse it was bomb proof...i honestly hardly ever broke it.
My fg baja when all plastic was surprisingly tough, i hit a sandbox wot in 2nd and only pulled a screw outta the fr upright, smacked into my log pile wot in 1st head on and broke nothing...rose joints were a pain always stretching on the rear arms, i never ran the plastic diff cos I got the HT version. i abuse my baja and it soaks most of it up. most of my upgrades were my preference rather than absolute necessity.
At the end of the day it comes down to build cost and profit margins, plastic is cheaper but breaks but more people can afford plastic than 2k plus on all alloy

 

[Crazy Beetle]

the porobpem is not the car or the materials.
it´s the idiot behind the steering wheel an trigger that is the main problem.

if you take a look at the Marder end Leopard models they have very few peoblems with parts braking.
aøø the monster modells have problemns with parts that don't hold.
and the main problemn is the gigantic wheels those modelsa are equipped with.
if you change the wheels on you monster beetle to a set og arde wheels most of the problems are gone.

 

[mooman007uk]

the porobpem is not the car or the materials.
it´s the idiot behind the steering wheel an trigger that is the main problem.

if you take a look at the Marder end Leopard models they have very few peoblems with parts braking.
aøø the monster modells have problemns with parts that don't hold.
and the main problemn is the gigantic wheels those modelsa are equipped with.
if you change the wheels on you monster beetle to a set og arde wheels most of the problems are gone.

very true

I would now like to introduce myself as one of the idiots behind the wheel:lol:

 

[dc2 man]

hahahah
funny...

in that case i probably fit in to same catagry... lol
no wonder i just got a few hours out of it from standard sinse it left the box the living poop was driven out of it haha

 

[Shiny]

The Nitro cares dos not produce as much power and torq as geasers. And the Nitro is much lighter than the Geasers. So you can't expect the plastic hold up on geasers like the Nitro.
Plus most people go Large Scale after Nitro or Battery. And drive them the same way. You can't expect a 10 KG care to make a big jump like a 3-4 KG car will. Remember physics.

 

[Ducky]

I'm personally amazed at how much abuse my MT will take, I've only ever broken a ball drive and split a rear upright so I'm very happy with the quality.

 

[dc2 man]

all depends on terrain your driving on i guess,where i started driving mine the areas were pretty rough plus lack of experience and knowlage at the time with large scales probably caused all my grief,i didnt watch the screws that were vibrating loose at the start and if i did and thread locked i would maybe have been trouble free for a lot longer..