How do i get the clutch blocks off ?

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Streetwise

Streetwise

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Hey Gang

Ordered a few spares and upgrades for my MT, went for the front disk brakes and a few alloy bits here and there. After reading a few threads about gearing ratio's and i decided to change the gearing, am now running 22/42 on the clutch/spur and 18/46 on the layshaft and diff.-- Man this thing is FAST !!!!!

I also have the baja wheels on it so not very much tyre mass to worry about. :-)

Anyway, how do i get the clutch blocks off ? i cant seem to turn the nuts holding them in ??

Cheers.
 
Hey Street...You need to buy a piston stopper..or a small rope....
Take the spark plug out of the head...put in about 12 inch's of rope..then loosen the bolt that hold the clutch shoes.....Slawhammer
 
slawhammer said:
Hey Street...You need to buy a piston stopper..or a small rope....
Take the spark plug out of the head...put in about 12 inch's of rope..then loosen the bolt that hold the clutch shoes.....Slawhammer
Click to expand...

:omg:

Was thinking i should take the engine out from the MT for more leverage. Im assuming the rope wont damage the top of the piston or anything ?
Is this a tired and tested method ? lol

thanks for your input.
 
You don't need to take the engine out of the chassie.....Even if you did you still have to hold the piston from truning......I have used the rope thing for a couple years....
Make sure you have about 6 inch's hanging out to pull back out ..after you tighten the bolts back up..........There are guys in this forum will tellyou I give good information...
Tey it..Slawhammer
 
slawhammer said:
You don't need to take the engine out of the chassie.....Even if you did you still have to hold the piston from truning......I have used the rope thing for a couple years....
Make sure you have about 6 inch's hanging out to pull back out ..after you tighten the bolts back up..........There are guys in this forum will tellyou I give good information...
Tey it..Slawhammer
Click to expand...

Sweet.
Will try it and report back :-)
 
pipeous said:
Slaw's tip is an old mechanic's trick. I've done that to get a flywheel bolt off a 1:1 car too
Click to expand...

Excellant stuff, the rope trick worked a treat, cheers S/hammer. The Only problem i have now, is it wont start..
 
Last edited:
Wont start...

Streetwise said:
Excellant stuff, the rope trick worked a treat, cheers S/hammer. The Only problem i have now, is it wont start..

I have compression, enough i think. Air filter good / clean (and even taken it off) i can see fuel spitting when i take the spark plug out, i have a spark when i rest it on the head and pull the pull cord.. it just wont fire, or even sound like its going to fire ???
Also..Its been sitting not used over the summer holidays (7 weeks) without being started as it was stripped down for repair etc. Could the fuel have gone off ?

Right, drained the old fuel out, cleaned and put fresh fuel in, stripped the carb down, put back together, checked the both gaskets, still wont start.

took the head off, the piston all looks good and clean, no scratch's or marks the inside looks good and all smooth. The ring at the top of the piston was a little stiff, so took it off and cleaned it. The head gasket was pretty messed up and looked as if it was melted as it just peeled away in peices ? - im hoping this is my problem...
What about the circuit interupter switch ? could that be at falut ?

Any thoughts or input and other ideas, or something else to try im all ears ???
Gonna order new gaskets for head and Air.

cheers..
Click to expand...
 
Replace all your gaskets....use a good sealant to help seal the gaskets..let cure 24 hours........replace the clunker in the fuel tank...Replace all fuel lines....
the line with the clunker goes to the bottom in-let of the carb....the other line goes by the prime bulb.....Note: your carb screen could be clogged....Remone the carb from engine....trun up side down...remove the big fat screw..becareful with the gaskets...
you will see a bronze colored screen..may be junk there....wet q-tip works well there to remove the junk......Put back together....install the carb back on the engine...
make sure the small hole near the bottom is not blocked..this is the pulse hole..to make the carb diaphram work to suck fuel in the intake........Gas /oil mix..use a good 2 stroke oil.....200mil oil to 1 liter to gasoline......Shake up well in your container.......
I my self always replace the fuel lines every 3 months & clunker....Just some thing I do
Never have to worry about..pin holes..clogged clunger....or my fuel system...Always works.......Mybe over kill this way...But for $10 dollars USD I am fine for 3 months for sure.......
 
It has happened before that the shut off switch gets stuck in. There is a mod that some have done to install a screw in it so they can pull it back out. Make sure you take the plug out and see if you have spark.
 
Good call bigger....I missed the fuel sputtering in......I reread the thread....
Lot of great minds here in the forum.....to help people out.....Slaw
 
slawhammer said:
Good call bigger....I missed the fuel sputtering in......I reread the thread....
Lot of great minds here in the forum.....to help people out.....Slaw
Click to expand...

cheers guys.
I did strip the carb down. Seemed good. Just a thought on the spark plug, its not a huge spark when i rest it on the head, should it be a big jump out the way spark on there ? Will change that also. Gaskets and fuel line ordered. Cleaned the clunk flushed it threw. Couldnt find one to buy.

While its stripped down like this, what are your thoughts on the 29cc upgrade kit ?
Hopefully my parts will be in for me to rebuild at the weekend.

Cheers for your inputs.
 
Besure to get some extra spark plugs.....When you get it back together ..use a new
plug.....Even if a plug looks good ..it could be bad....you want to see a strong blue spark
when checking against the head.....Your coil & fly wheel gap is cridical....Make sure it is set correct........Think Bigger the Better has tutural on that...........
29 head kit is ok.....Is this a new engine?....Cuz I ask if your going to do a head kit..
Better to also do new engine bearings & oil seals the same time........Trust me on this...
Ask Bigger the Better on a engine build..he was doing for a young kid.......
He was just going to replace the head kit.....Only....He will tell ya the story .......
 
If you have the bottom end get yourself a head kit. Its a great way to know your engine. make sure to get all the parts it's cheaper then taking out a new head kit. Plus, you want to have all the parts as you find out they are bad anyway. :laugh:
Most plugs don't go bad, they crack in the inside and still spark but light. A new plug may help. To gap the coil just put a business card between it and the rotor and loosen the bolts. It will fall onto the rotor squishing the card. Tighten the bolts and rotate the rotor. Your set.
I would also stay away from the less expensive 29cc head kits.:no:
 
slawhammer said:
Besure to get some extra spark plugs.....When you get it back together ..use a new
plug.....Even if a plug looks good ..it could be bad....you want to see a strong blue spark
when checking against the head.....Your coil & fly wheel gap is cridical....Make sure it is set correct........Think Bigger the Better has tutural on that...........
29 head kit is ok.....Is this a new engine?....Cuz I ask if your going to do a head kit..
Better to also do new engine bearings & oil seals the same time........Trust me on this...
Ask Bigger the Better on a engine build..he was doing for a young kid.......
He was just going to replace the head kit.....Only....He will tell ya the story .......
Click to expand...

The engine is about 1 year old. Not to sure about the bigger head kit, just a thought i had while i had the head apart, but i don't really need the extra power.... did i say that out loud ???

The spark isnt bright or big, so will get a new one.
Not doing any work on it until later in the week This Work stuff just gets in way :(
Hey Bigger, spill the beans, S/hammer has wet my curiousity :clown:
 
I thought I was going to have a 1/2 hour project on swapping out a top end. After talking it out on line with the members I called DDM back and bought all the other parts to completely tear it down. After tearing it, I thanked my lucky "members" I listened. I found many items that would have went bad soon and took out his motor worse then before. If its used, tear it completely down, its worth the measly extra cash. Plus, motors and electronics I have learned not to go cheap on. The rest is an easy fix but those items can ruin a credit card.:nono:

Here is the thread: https://www.largescaleforums.com/showthread.php?t=5705
 
Bigger the Better said:
I thought I was going to have a 1/2 hour project on swapping out a top end. After talking it out on line with the members I called DDM back and bought all the other parts to completely tear it down. After tearing it, I thanked my lucky "members" I listened. I found many items that would have went bad soon and took out his motor worse then before. If its used, tear it completely down, its worth the measly extra cash. Plus, motors and electronics I have learned not to go cheap on. The rest is an easy fix but those items can ruin a credit card.:nono:

Here is the thread: https://www.largescaleforums.com/showthread.php?t=5705
Click to expand...

that made intresting reading that thread. Think im going to stick with my stock head !!
I have plenty of torque and top end speed already with the gearing im running, any more power and it'll become too uncontrollable. lol

roll on the delivery man :-)
 
I had to take my clutch blocks off last night to file the housing down. the housing fouls the fg motor mount a bit and the previous owner did the screen mod but went too low and had to file that down some.... I gambled and stuffed a 1/4" ratchet handle into the flywheel and that worked, though I don't recommend it. I was just in a hurry to finish the job.

I too sit here waiting for deliveries. my projects are all on hold now waiting for goodies to arrive. I built and sold 2 cars this week locally (seems that's the only way I get the scene to grow). Getting Rob into the mix really should bring more people. He's one of the best drivers around here. I can drive and keep those top guys honest, but I am not going to say I am the same caliber. I understand the mechanics, but not hardcore into practice like them. Practice is for my guitars ;)

Maybe I could build up what I have anyway. Just paid for my servos. made the deal for my pipe and finding out about a new body and under tray. can't wait to get these built up. got some killer goodies coming :D
 
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