how do you run your motor in.

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pablo

pablo

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slipknot central
after blowing my motor up the other week after only 2 tanks i,ve built a fresh 30.5 and want to run it in proper this time, instead of taking it easy for 20 minutes then caning it. and to be honest i think thats what killed my zen 23,
 
Some go to half throttle for at least half a tank.
I've read that certainly during break-in / run-in, never go above 25:1 petrol:eek:il ratio.
That's about all I think - easy on throttle adjustments as well to start.

Al.
 
I heat cycle mine. First tank I run easy till it gets up to operating temperature then shut it off and let it cool down to ambulant temperature. Second tank I run 1/2 or less throttle. Both first and second tank I run a littler richer then I normally would but not overly rich. Third tank I tune for performance and give it hell.
 
46u said:
I heat cycle mine. First tank I run easy till it gets up to operating temperature then shut it off and let it cool down to ambulant temperature. Second tank I run 1/2 or less throttle. Both first and second tank I run a littler richer then I normally would but not overly rich. Third tank I tune for performance and give it hell.
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+ 1

best way right there ^ ^ ;)
 
OBR Engine Break-in Procedure

Engine Break-in Procedure

New engine break-in procedure

1. Take it easy on the engine for the first two tanks

2. Heat cycle twice, run the engine for 20 minutes and let it fully cool down

3. We recommend 91 octane fuel, mixed at 25:1 Our preffered oil is Castor 927

4. Let your engine warm up before driving

5. Try to vary the rpms during breaking.

5. DO NOT HOLD FULL THROTTLE UNTIL THE ENGINE IS COMPLETELY BROKEN IN!!!

7. Do not use octane booster

http://www.oneillbrothers.com/blog/cat/techinfo/
 
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OuttaLuck said:
Pablo, Hows the new engine going ?
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thanks for asking, i took it out last week to get a tank thru it. its got crazy compression so i was exspecting it to be hard to start but it fired 3rd pull. it was hard to gauge the power because the grass were i was running was so wet and i was running in so never went mad, but it seems to run very well. i had heard bad things about stacking gaskets,but the paper copper paper idea works well cheers magregor for the advice:cup-1:just hoping the drivetrain can take the strain.
 
pablo said:
thanks for asking, i took it out last week to get a tank thru it. its got crazy compression so i was exspecting it to be hard to start but it fired 3rd pull. it was hard to gauge the power because the grass were i was running was so wet and i was running in so never went mad, but it seems to run very well. i had heard bad things about stacking gaskets,but the paper copper paper idea works well cheers magregor for the advice:cup-1:just hoping the drivetrain can take the strain.
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The biggest problem with stacking gaskets is you are changing port timing. I have never run one with stacked gaskets I have always gotten the kit with a machined cylinder for the stroke. I am glade your new motor is working well. Did you check the squish when you built it? What motor or kit did you use?
 
My engines go on the Oddified dyno after tuning then they go in my car and go straight into race mode.

On a new engine it's worth changing the ring after an hour or so.
 
It's something I've always done, Ian once told me that the first ring goes weak in a new engine much sooner than the ones after - He did go into why but I can't remember what he said.
My off road engines have a new ring every other meeting maybe every third but my on road engines had a new ring every meeting without fail to keep it crisp and tight.
 
interesting, about the ring changes so often.

break-in is minimal with these engines. i do believe in heat cycling myself. like to do atleast two heat cycles and then run it, taking it kinda easy the first half tank and then for sure run it like im gonna run it from there on out. heat cycling seasons the metals. running a engine in to rich is bad, only gonna wear the ring, foul plugs and waste time cause the ring is not gonna seat properly till you pour the heat to it. ive done lots of porting/testing and ive had the best ring seats on engines i actually ran to hard and hot on the first run just cause i wanted to see the effects. i actually ever so slightly lean seized a brand new ts reed engine on the first run on a hot summer day. the piston was smeared right in the center of the exhaust port, the engine actually died, i let it cool a tad, fired it up and that engine was so tight for the longest time. i still have it, it needs bearings and seals, bit it still has great compression after atleast 8 gallons, but i will change the ring when i open her up, for sure.

not saying go out and lean sieze your motor on first run, but my point is a good hot temp is needed to seat the ring properly.

sorry for long post, just wanted to let you know my point of view from my testing.
 
WOT right off the bench. They are all rollers and needle bearings and the ring don't care how fast it's going. If it fails it was gonna anyhow. Might as well find out right away so you can build another. Lol.

Get it hot and break it in at the temps you will normally be running it at.
 
danielplace1962 said:
WOT right off the bench. They are all rollers and needle bearings and the ring don't care how fast it's going. If it fails it was gonna anyhow. Might as well find out right away so you can build another. Lol.

Get it hot and break it in at the temps you will normally be running it at.
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You'll run it in alright, run it into the ground! :hammer:
 
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