How to remove stripped out engine bolts?

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AAGregg

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I need some help with this. I have a firehammer mt and my engine bolts are all stripped out I tried using titanium high speed drill bit to drill and extract them out but, the titanium bit will not even leave a scratch on the bolt. Does any one know of how to remove these bolts when the allen head strips out?
 
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What engine bolts are they? Are the main 4 on the bottom of the chassis? If you can get to them with a drill, you may be in luck!

I don't know your location (you need to update that) but if you have a local Sears or Walmart type place look for a, "Grab-It". It is a screw extractor kit. Slawhammer has a pic of it I believe.. They work like a champ!

Good Luck!
 
canadian tire has them too. I have the large set of grab its. my test for them next is 3 stripped screws in a layshaft gear.

I just stripped and sold a crawler that was put together with red loktite. even the servo screw stripped.
 
If you are talking about the ones on the bottom of the chassis, I slotted mine, but to no avail. I ended up using a pair of vice grips. How? I gripped them on the countersunk washer and then just rotated the washer with the vice grips. The three times that this has happened on mine, I've been able to get them out that way, the screw rotates with the washer. As you rotate the washer, the screw will obviously get higher. As you go, put a slotted screw driver under the washer (while still rotating) to push the washer and screw up so that you can continue to remove the screw. Eventually, you can just vice grip the screw to get it out the remainder of the way.

Hopefully this is what you are talking about.
 
Updating your location is very important for support.:)

If its a bolt that has been locktighted you should also heat it up to loosen the locktight before wrenching.
 
Thanks guys for all you great ideas I got mad at it this afternoon and pounded a flat head screw driver in and twisted them out. I still have one question for all of you what type of gear are you running in your trucks?
 
way to go buddy...pound the hell out of it...you will get it out....
now just remember to get extra mounting screws & washers...cuz steel screws and alloy
mounts don't always work out so well...with lock -tite as well.....steel screws pulls alloy threads and gets tight........I have had that happen 3 or 4 times already....with this hobby
you will find you need extra parts for every thing.......Any way good you got it out...
what do you want to do for you running? as to using gearing.....more on road or a combo of both on road and off road?
My guess is combo little of both.....clutch bell 18 pinion..spur gear 46
transfer gear 16 diff leave 48......that will give you more top end speed..
with those new wheels & tires you got.....Slawhammer
 
Slawhammer, where did you get that 18t and 16t gear and are they metal? What would I get if I ran 18t with the 48t spur gear instead of the 16t?
 
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Hey gregg..you can get those pinions from Large scale Rc if they have them in stock...
I would suggest run the 16 pinion on the lay shaft first....that would be acompromise
Still have some low for take off....But you will gain on the high end more when the engine has higher rpm's.....In other words...your running higher speed....Slawhammer
 
I will have too check on that....I switched all my friehammer gears too Fg..as the parts are stronger and you can always get parts for FG......The clutch bell pinions are different....
The Diff gear for firehammer & Fg should work ok...If I remember correct so should the transfer gear on the lay shaft....Maybe some one else can shad some light on this as well
........Slawhammer.....
 

No, that's a clutch bell pinion. You can't use FG pinions on your Firehammer.

You want this one for the clutch bell (the one that is meshes with your spur on the your gear plate, 19tooth is the only option in the states):

http://www.largescalerc.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1015



For the layshaft which is the small gear that meshes with the differential gear:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHTV9&P=7

or

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPMS5&P=7
 
How's the quality of this gear from duratrax http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHTV9&P=7 ? Because I know the 14t gear is too small and have over size teeth that do not line up with the differential gear. I have been stripping this gear almost every time I run my truck. Any suggestions to change to stop stripping this gear. I have no problems with the other bell gear setup.
 
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AAGregg- the gear should be fine. I've been running the same 14tooth for over 2 years now.

You shouldn't be stripping that gear out (obviously ;)). I'm sure you've done this but check the following for loose screws:

transfer gear set screws, Engine mounts, diff mounts, rear bulk head brace (piece below), and check the alignment of the transfer gear with the diff gear (I usually have to shine a flashlight in there to see how it looks)

attachment.php


Another thought is make certain your gear plate is tight and the layshaft is straight with no excessive movement.

Hopefully someone else will throw some other suggestions out there. I'm puzzled as to why you are stripping that gear out.
 
Yup that gears will work fine..the 16 for Fg gears are a little wider is all for the teeth..
The main reason your stripping gears is ..the engine is moved back a smigin from the diff gear....But the main reason is the rear chassie is flexing...,,making the transfer gear
14 tooth seperate from the 48 tooth diff gear and come back together when running on
rough ground.........Hey take off that plate that CSP posted above,,now push down on your firehammer....see the gears seporate....If you use a flash lite with out taking the cover plate off you still should see the gears move........If you remember in my thread I said I went thru 3 set of gear and layshafts before I figured this out.....
Youneed to do the rear chassie mod to stop that.....Slawhammer
 
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