How to stop your engine mounts loosening

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Splitpin2005

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After many times of my engine mounts loosening after some hefty monster bashing and jumping, i had to come up with a solution. I was finding that the engine would now and again become slightly loose and even though i had the upgraded steel dif/engine mount brace, the engine moved forwards and eventually gears went out of sink, and messed up layshaft gear.

WELL, MY SOLUTION, tried tested and bloody brilliant!!!!!!!!

Firstly buy the alloy engine mounts, these are an absolute must. Also fit an steel diff/engine mount brace. Next fit them to the engine, and then align on the Monster Chasis. Now fix it down, not with screws but with stainless hex head bolts. Using plenty of loktite.

Now for the flashy bit. Carefully turn the truck upside down. Now you see where the four bolts are you just put in. Scribe 2 lines. Front to back on each mounts fixings.

Now halfway along each line centre punch a mark. Now drill a 3mm hole straight through. Through the chasis and through the engine mount. Be carefull to keep the drill at 90degrees to the chasis at all times. Do this to each mount.

You now have 2 holes. Next put a 5mm bit in your drill. Now drill through the chasis only!!!!! Stopping before going into the mounts. Then grab a 4mm tap and wrench and tap each hole in the engine mounts.

Now use 2 pan head hex bolts, 14mm long, and screw into new holes. Use locktite again.

Now jump till your hearts content!!!!!! No more loosening of them mounts ever again.

Only downside is if you wish to change your gearing in the future as alignment maybe wrong. But for me i would rather keep standard gearing, and have a well fixed engine.
 
my mate just uses a little rubber under each of his engine mounts...Stops vibration...Seems to work well...Hasent moved yet and he<s racing round a Motocross Track...Renbarr has used long grubs...he screwed em in Engine mounts then just used Nylocs underneith to hold in place....Also works wel..
 
yeah sounds good all i done was use 2 of the fg m4 headless pins the ones used to limit wish bones ect i theadlock them in the small engine mount with the allen key head facing under side of the car i use a big thin washer and m4 nylock nut done job on the large mount i just use allen headed bolts and washers not had one problem yet other than if the car bottoms out it wil grind the nuts but i change them before they are to bad but since ive stoped using my car on gravel it aint happend
 
wow I was just about to post a thread asking is there a solution for this. I am now on my third layshaft gear (14t) and sick of it!

the last gear only lasted 6 tanks! I am running the stock engine mounts (plastic, somehow lasted for over 20 tanks!) but about to order the alloy ones.

thanks for the info, any pics would be greatly appreciated.
 
Sounds a great idea - really solid mounting.
I've read about this, and have taken care, so I've not encountered this problem yet.
I read somewhere that some people use double sided tape - as well as threadlocking the bolts, for mounting the engine mounts to the chassis.
 
I made a small brace of aluminum from the rear bulkhead and bolted to the extra hole on the back of the engine. motor stays in place even with motor mount screws loosened off
 
pipe, what small hole are you talking about on rear of engine, im looking at the pipe of mine and cant locate a spare hole. I run the stock cooling cowl, is it under that?
 
on fg, pull start side. look at the 3 holed support plate on the rear bulkhead. straight ahead of the side with one screw. on the motor there is a threaded hole not used in our application. I took some square aluminum stock. banged it on the anvil a bit to shape it. and drilled 2 holes. it pivots on the motor side so just unscrew the one from the bulkhead and flip forward. same deal though it means you run that gearing on the layshaft, but you can still change the other gears.

this mod above is a great idea though.
 
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