HPI BAJA VS RR Evo 2 in SPEED and AGILITY

[easy]

How do the two compare in :
Providing the motors are the same

Acceleration

Top speed

Cornering and handling

Ease of work on the chassis

Perhaps someone had both or raced against each other can shine some light !!!


Thank you guys :helpsmilie:

 

[billzkustomz]

ok my friend an i both have these buggys he has a baja and i have a rr..ci will say this the 4wd actially helps in handling.. i just spin the baja out when i drive it but with 4wd i don't spin out.. the baja is faster because its lighter

the rr is much easier to work on.. its more open

 

[dgav407]

easy

Two of the largescale off-road clubs here in the UK are holding a winter race series and the new Evo 2 Comp Race Runners are 2 seconds a lap quicker than the 2WD drive cars!!!!

They are being raced against all the high-end european cars (Lauterbacher Supercross, FG Leopard and Hormann HT2s) and stock and modified HPI Bajas.

The Evo 2 Race Runners are being raced in near standard (stock) spec, although some drivers are using limited-slip diffs and the KCR balloon springs. The only issue seems to be the red plastic rose joints - the front lower ones tend to split or stretch in the event of a heavy impact. They can be replaced with the FG, HARM or Lauterbacher ones though.

My own experience of racing a Race Runner on-road against HPI Bajas last year was that in general the HPI Bajas were able to lap the track consistently faster. To be honest my set-up was totally wrong for on-road racing - whilst drifting is great fun it is not the quickest way round the track!!!

Clive

 

[easy]

races

Is it very fair fort the 2wd buggies to go against the 4wd buggies ??

There should be two different classes for them.

That will be interesting to see what will happen in the near future.

what do we do to make the mcd more efficient guys.
cheers

 

[zouz10]

Easy,
The MCD is extremely efficient. I love this car. My friend and I go racing every Sunday, he's got an HPI Baja and I beat him every time. Same engine I got the advantage with the gearing and the 4WD. When he drives it and I drive his baja he beats me with the MCD. Trust me you can't go wrong with the MCD..IMHO

 

[dgav407]

Easy

For the first two rounds of the winter series there were not sufficient MCD cars for separate 2WD and 4WD finals so the cars raced together. However, since then there has been a increase in the number of 4WD cars (all MCD) entered and they have raced in their own final.

As for the future development of the MCD off-road cars, we should all benefit from the fact that the 2005/6 largescale world champion (Ian Oddie) is racing a Evo 2 this year in the UK. He has already made an MCD Evo spec version of his 4-bolt 'Heli' engine - it is not cheap at 480 uk pounds though!!

Check out his gear ratio chart (includes the 23/26t steel gears):
http://www.kingcobra.co.uk/news/newsitem.php?id=642

Clive

 

[monotheist]

That highlighted gear ratio on the oddfield chart is what I have been running on the track these past few months and believe it to be the best compromise between top speed and outright acceleration. If anything I wouldn’t mind a bit more low end grunt as there is still a small hole in the low end power band just before the Samba pipe kicks in and the track only has one straight where I can nail it but that’s only for a few seconds.

I adjusted my Elcon cutch to approx 1.4 turns out so the engine has a little more time to spool up before clutch engagement. 1 turn out didn’t engage at all (even at full revs) and 1.5-1.7 was still a little boggy. I really wonder how the UK guys go with just a stock 26cc as my reed ported 26 with the Samba and current gear ratio is just enough for my driving style although I would suspect most of those guys are far better than myself when it comes to engine tuning so that may help.

An ongoing issue which has been mentioned before and one that I have been struggling with especially during the past month or so of 35-40 degree weather is engine cooling. Extended run times really began to take there toll on power output as the engine goes beyond its optimal thermal efficiency rating so I have been thinking of ways to prevent this. I have opened out the 2 side windows on the clutch side or the racerunner shell so that the hot fly wheel fan air can exit the buggy and have also modified an old Trevor Simpson head kit I had lying around so that I could utilise the top heatsink portion of it which is now bolted to my O'Neills engine. This involved removing the top (smaller) fin on the cylinder and tapping some holes into the remaining fins and seems to work quite well.

You really need to play around with different gear ratios to get the best out of your engine/clutch and pipe combination otherwise you may experience ongoing overheating and poor performance issues.

 

[dgav407]

monotheist

The King Cobra/MCD team drivers have removed all four side windows and a large portion of the rear one to help with cooling. I have also drilled holes in the front window as well.

The UK team drivers do have more engine tuning experience than most, but even one of them has suffered an engine failure whilst racing. At the last race meeting one had the cylinder head split on his Zenoah engine!!

I have experienced a drop in engine performance during a 15/20 minute race and unfortunately have wrecked one Zenoah engine during the season. Until I can overcome the cooling issue I am reluctant to install my new 4-Bolt 'Heli' engine in either of my MCD cars. I am currently using a stock 26cc CY engine in my Rally Car and a 4 year-old full race (designed for 2WD on-road though) 23cc Zenoah engine in my Evo 2.

The engines should be able to run for extended periods as MCD hold a 24 hour race each year for the Rally cars. The videos I have seen of the 2006 race did not give the impression that they required frequent engine changes. The cars were raced with the MCD inner bodyshells fitted (because of the conditions) and they hardly help cooling.

Clive

 

[MONAROMAN]

Isn't that race in the freezing cold though, I have a copy of the MCD24hr vid but am not sure what year but it was snowing and raining the whole time, this would help temp issues no doubt.

 

[dgav407]

MONAROMAN

I agree the conditions would help the cooling but my experience of running my Rally Car in cold (near freezing) and damp conditions is that the engine still gets hot at the end of a long run.

Clive

 

[monotheist]

Heres what I did to mine. I cut away most of the cooling shroud when I got the engine as I had always thought it actually hindered performance as grass etc. would constantly get caught up in it but a couple of previous runs last week in stupidly hot conditions I realized I needed to re-direct more air past the cylinder in front of the engine so I added a lexan strip to help aid cooling. So now my engine has a combination of both forced fan and natural air cooling which seems to help in the limited testing I have done so far.

 

[egon]

Hi monotheist..........

I see you have REED on your engine, is this a REED Ported engine with Reed, or is it a Race Ported engine with Reed?

Hope you know what I meen, because it is a hugh difference.....

And what ccm is it?

 

[monotheist]

Hey Egon, its an O'neills Zen 26cc reed ported engine so its got the 5th transfer port cut into the intake side of the cylinder.

Although its a great engine from my experience you may need to do a few simple mods to make it run right in the MCD as heat becomes an issue. Most importantly is to use a couple of Teflon insulating gaskets between the cylinder, reed case and carb. Otherwise you might find the heat from the cylinder is transferred into the reed case and subsequently into the carb causing fuel delivery issues (vapor lock) I do not know why these gaskets do not come standard on the engine as even the stock motor uses an insulating intake manifold.

 

[egon]

Hey Egon, its an O'neills Zen 26cc reed ported engine so its got the 5th transfer port cut into the intake side of the cylinder.

Although its a great engine from my experience you may need to do a few simple mods to make it run right in the MCD as heat becomes an issue. Most importantly is to use a couple of Teflon insulating gaskets between the cylinder, reed case and carb. Otherwise you might find the heat from the cylinder is transferred into the reed case and subsequently into the carb causing fuel delivery issues (vapor lock) I do not know why these gaskets do not come standard on the engine as even the stock motor uses an insulating intake manifold.

Hmmmm......

26ccm..., do you have ANY problems with the torque on this engine? Out of the corners, in the start etc etc. Or do the Reed helps you anough? Maybe you use a hard clutchspring? I have verry bad experience using any 26ccm in my MCD RR and MCD-MT.......

What pipe are you using?

 

[monotheist]

Egon, please read my post further up (7th post down). I discussed everything you ask there...