Hyd front brakes

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rc_man1

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Well today my hyd brakes shown up from china :) it only took me three hours to do a complete install. I had to modify my buggy body just a small amount. I hope tomorrow it quits raining so I can try them out!!

Mike
 

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Looks a nice simple installation.
Let us all know how they are.

I'm starting to consider reverting to cables on my FG MT - starting to get air in the system, through rather 'energetic' use!!
I've bled, changed O-ring seals, and tightened as much as I dare the bleed screws, but I'm wondering if it's going to be a little high maintenance for me.

Al.
 
atom3624 said:
Looks a nice simple installation.
Let us all know how they are.

I'm starting to consider reverting to cables on my FG MT - starting to get air in the system, through rather 'energetic' use!!
I've bled, changed O-ring seals, and tightened as much as I dare the bleed screws, but I'm wondering if it's going to be a little high maintenance for me.

Al.
Click to expand...

Atom, I've had alot of different types of hydros and I would say you get what you pay for....

Most cases the air gets in through the fitments, or the bleed screws, try some ptf tape around the bleed screws thread.

What hydros are they mate?

Brad
 
Hi Brad, I've got KPD late model ones for the MT - larger diameter - just before they appear to have stopped producing.

As you state, I think I'm getting a leak from the bleed screw, and I actually added an extra O-ring on each side - got a plumber's repair kit with loads of all sorts of sizes from tiny upwards some time ago - and tightened a little more. I don't like the idea of tightening these too much - one of 'those'.

One of them has a slightly longer screw I fitted onto it, to get a better purchase ...

I also had air from the cylinder end, but that was thro' me being a little agressive with the MT and rolling it - on grass so no worries - solid!! Reservoir was empty - didn't help. No leaks so it was simply the roll. Another thing avoided with cable brakes.

I'll bear with for now, but 'Tuning' cable brakes with a decent servo aren't a bad option I reckon.

Al.
 
Still raining like crazy here so I guess I'll have to wait one more day to test the break system. :( I took all of the O-rings and replaced with mil spec O-rings because the ones that came with it were junk...

Mile
 
I think I know what your telling me. I put a spring on the back side. Or I might be missing it completely.!!
 

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atom3624 said:
Hi Mike,
I've a small piece of tubing on top of the reservoir, but didn't think of the grub screw bit - would certainly stop that!

Thanks,
Al.
Click to expand...

Atom.

The master cylinder needs to breath so don't put a grub screw in the fuel line, just leave it about an inch or do It 3 to 4 inches and bend it over and out the bottom of your chassis.

I have had the kp,s on my old FG comp.

I now have the Genius hydros which are made by Mecatech, these also have a hole in the top of the master cylinder for it to breath, I get a bit of seepage but not to bad, but these must be the best hydros I've ever had.

Brad.

Brad.
 
Mike1970 said:
Keith supplied a grub screw to go in it, it will still breath through the threads. The hole is there to bleed the brakes.
Click to expand...

The hole is there to let the master breath? If you block it up piston will be pushing hydraulic fluid against air which will make tham feel really spongey.

Brad
 
I don't know if you've ever seen the KP brakes but the reservoir is above the rest of the workings. If the brakes are bled correctly then there would not be any problems as the reservoir should only be 3/4 full which will leave a breather space.

I have used KP brakes for many years for on road and off road in national & international competition and have never had any issues. At the time they were probably the best brakes available.
 
I have had the kp,s on my old FG comp.

As I said earlier, I too race and have never put a grub screw in the pipe?

Each to there own.

Brad.
 
Sounds like we put this out to arbitration!!
I was losing quite a bit in my heavy 'playing around' with 'J-turn' type tactics - full bore, hard on the brakes, ease and spin it around without rolling - my bit of fun but hard on everything obviously.
I don't think I was losing through it rolling alone, and there's no real signs of weeping from any of the joints - they're tight.
The extra on the bleed screws has definitely helped and there remain no bubbles after perhaps 2-3 tanks of 'playing'.

Al.
 
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