Intake Manifold

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Ildy666 said:
The plastic intakes warp from heat causing air leaks and engine failure.don't purchase a plastic intake and paint it not worth the hassle.buy a good aluminum intake and get good gaskets.plastic is cooler for 1:1 automobile cold air intakes bc the air is not heated so quickly by the hotter metal tubes so ur forcing colder air to the motor.but on rc engines u wont notice the difference of a 1 inch plastic intake plus the high temps warp and cause severe tuning issues.ask any one that switched to a aluminum intake if they go back to a plastic one.i highly doubt it....just my 2 cents...
Just to add....

The aluminum manifolds come with nice teflon gaskets. They stop most of the heat transfer. The plastic insulator blocks just use paper. I have used an aluminum manifold on all my engines. Great product!
 
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When installing, do not over tighten the bolts. If you squeeze the Teflon gaskets too much, you will close off the pulse port hole. That will cause failure to start/run issues.
 
RCDAD said:
When installing, do not over tighten the bolts. If you squeeze the Teflon gaskets too much, you will close off the pulse port hole. That will cause failure to start/run issues.
So stop when it doesn't want to turn without a lot of force

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Snug them up and 1/2 turn more should be good.

You need to use Loctite since you can't torque them down.

You also need to make sure the carb bolts are not too long. They are know for going all the way through the manifold and puncturing the Teflon gasket on the motor side. That will cause an air leak.
 
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I like to do a test fit to make sure the bolts don't come out the manifold.

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RCDAD said:
When installing, do not over tighten the bolts. If you squeeze the Teflon gaskets too much, you will close off the pulse port hole. That will cause failure to start/run issues.
+1 on the pulse port being block.i made a paper gasket in a pinch situation and blocked the port and the tune was so erratic.seemed like i spent the whole time retuning.now i run the tall aluminum intake and teflon gaskets and had no tuning issues.now 2 bolt head gasket problems are common with me...lol...but took care of that with gizmo's 4 bolt zen ...hehe...
 
RCDAD said:
Just to add....The aluminum manifolds come with nice teflon gaskets. They stop most of the heat transfer. The plastic insulator blocks just use paper. I have used an aluminum manifold on all my engines. Great product!
+1

I was just going to say that, lol. Seeing the photo of carb and spacer I thought.. "Problem solved". The 1/8th in or so teflon gasket would do a good job of keeping heat away from the carb and fuel. ;)
 
I know I'll have a couple extra but I need to wait till I get my new motor completely done so that I know I have the right screws in there. I might finish my motor tonight and I'll let you know if you still need em
 
Motakitty said:
I know I'll have a couple extra but I need to wait till I get my new motor completely done so that I know I have the right screws in there. I might finish my motor tonight and I'll let you know if you still need em
Good deal

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I have a pair still in the package so I'll try not to use those so I can send you a brand new pair but again after I put my motor together but I should have some for you
 
Thanks everyone for the awesome feedback, going to find me a nice aluminum one, any reason why people go for the tall versions?
 
Motakitty said:
From what I know of cars if it's a tall one it'll get more air volume which may or may not be good
I hear yah, Im in the same boat. More volumetric efficiency ( better atomization ). Two strokes may not suffer from a stumble from having the carb to far away like a V8 with a tunnel ram for instance. Probably because of the idle speed and velocity of the fuel charge at all times. A 813/998Walbro carb would help though as they have accelerator pumps, if there was an issue.
 
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