is there any way to locktite center diff cups without removing center diff?

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SmokeScream

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i am working on getting all the diff cup set screws all sealed up with locktite. the front center diff i can get on set screw with a ball end allen key but don't know if i will be able to get it back in. and the rear center diff cup i don't really see a way without taking center diff out.


anyone with tips or tricks here?
 
can i take the plastic engine off? or is that a bad idea? all it seems to do is trap grass in the cooling fins in the rad.
 
Deluge said:
I'm assuming you're talking about the shroud that extends over the head. You want to leave that on, it helps keep the engine cool.
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thats what i figured, but all it seems to do is trap 2 tons of grass in the head. was just curious. had it off trying to get allen key into the rear center diff cup.
 
For the diff cups, you can use green loctite on there. Put one end of a toothpick on the set screw, and then drip a drop of green loctite on the toothpick. It will run down the wood and then seep into the set screw threads.
 
RampageHopUps said:
For the diff cups, you can use green loctite on there. Put one end of a toothpick on the set screw, and then drip a drop of green loctite on the toothpick. It will run down the wood and then seep into the set screw threads.
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i cant even get an allen key into the rear one on the center diff. cant get enough angle for ball end key to fit in cuz its half under the motor. gonna have to pull motor or center diff out i guess before that set screw ratlles out.
 
You'll want a pull start pre-filter (outerwears most populare one) to prevent that engine shroud from filling with '2 tons of grass'.
 
SmokeScream said:
i cant even get an allen key into the rear one on the center diff. cant get enough angle for ball end key to fit in cuz its half under the motor. gonna have to pull motor or center diff out i guess before that set screw ratlles out.
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What Rob is saying is drip the loctite onto the screw without removing it,get the screw in a position that you can drip a little green loctite on to it and let it sit,could save you a lot of work! :)
 
yknotrc said:
What Rob is saying is drip the loctite onto the screw without removing it,get the screw in a position that you can drip a little green loctite on to it and let it sit,could save you a lot of work! :)
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it already looks loose though. and cant tighten it without taking a bunch of stuff apart by the look of it. if it was tight i would just drip some locktite on, but not with it looking loose on there.


as for the pre-filter, does the mesh mod work just as good? (epoxying mesh or screen inside)
 
SmokeScream said:
it already looks loose though. and cant tighten it without taking a bunch of stuff apart by the look of it. if it was tight i would just drip some locktite on, but not with it looking loose on there.
as for the pre-filter, does the mesh mod work just as good? (epoxying mesh or screen inside)
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Oh ok, If it`s loose already I guess you have no choice.


If you have to pull the engine i would epoxy some alum. screen to the underside openings as well!


For the pull start I have used screen in the past but on the outside this way if it somehow comes loose it`s not going to end up around the flywheel! :)
 
Ya I figured I would pull the engine tonight and mesh the pull-start cover since it was out. I did the DVD pins with locktite and shrink tube.


Anyone run their clutch shoes leading? (backwards) I've read mixed results. Was thinking of trying it. My motor is stock with a slightly bigger stock type muffler. I haven't run it with this pipe yet to see what it does, but as long as it doesn't rain I will try it tonight. It's off a zen 26 from a boat. (dunno if it will push all power to high revs like tuned pipes for boats)
 
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