Just wont start

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
B

bolls300

Member
Messages
9
Reaction score
0
Location
Ballarat, Australia
Hi Guys.

Im after a bit of help, i have recently just bought a KM 2.0.
Pulled it out of the box, charged the battires, mixed some fuel and it started within 5 pulls.

Put around 2 tanks through it, up and down in revs, and really nothong over 1/2 throtle.

But now i just cant get it started, i have emptied all the fuel and re fueled with fresh stuff, checked for spark and even replaced the plug, pulled the carby off and checked all gaskets and as i pulled the head off to check the gasket their i noticed some black buid up on top of the piston and in the underside of the head, i cleaned it off the best i could and put it all back together again after checking piston, ring and the inside of the bore.

It all looked pretty good apart from down low on the piston skirt their was some noticable wear.

Still no luck though, not even close to fireing.
Oh and set carby needles to stock settings.

So any ideas would be great.

Cheers.

Col
 
bolls300 said:
Hi Guys.

Im after a bit of help, i have recently just bought a KM 2.0.
Pulled it out of the box, charged the battires, mixed some fuel and it started within 5 pulls.

Put around 2 tanks through it, up and down in revs, and really nothong over 1/2 throtle.

But now i just cant get it started, i have emptied all the fuel and re fueled with fresh stuff, checked for spark and even replaced the plug, pulled the carby off and checked all gaskets and as i pulled the head off to check the gasket their i noticed some black buid up on top of the piston and in the underside of the head, i cleaned it off the best i could and put it all back together again after checking piston, ring and the inside of the bore.

It all looked pretty good apart from down low on the piston skirt their was some noticable wear.

Still no luck though, not even close to fireing.
Oh and set carby needles to stock settings.

So any ideas would be great.

Cheers.

Col
Click to expand...

Hi Col,

WELCOME TO LSF, to start with.

It seems like you know more than enough to get it going - just go systematically through all of the steps.
Does the primer pump the fuel - was there fuel in the cylinder or was it dry?
Were you enriching, or 'pre-starting' with the choke, prior to returning to normal?
By your description, you've a very good idea of these things.

Does it have a remote kill switch?
Is the normal kill switch faulty?

Just a couple of extra ideas.

Al.
 
Thanks Al.

Generally i would try and start it with the choke in the downward position, untill it just fires then flick it up and away it would go.
The primer does seem to be pumping fuel, and yeah the cylinder is wet.
after a lot of trying, the exhaust is getting a fair bit of fuel in it, i assume this is normal?
Would it still spark if the kill switch was faulty? its just a standard kill switch, is thier any way of testing it?

Hope somthing works soon, im getting a sore arm lol

Cheers.
Col
 
bolls300 said:
Thanks Al.

Generally i would try and start it with the choke in the downward position, untill it just fires then flick it up and away it would go.
The primer does seem to be pumping fuel, and yeah the cylinder is wet.
after a lot of trying, the exhaust is getting a fair bit of fuel in it, i assume this is normal?
Would it still spark if the kill switch was faulty? its just a standard kill switch, is thier any way of testing it?

Hope somthing works soon, im getting a sore arm lol

Cheers.
Col
Click to expand...

Hi Col,

All people have mentioned in the past is to 'pump it' to free it up, if it's sticking.
Then people work through the other things - compression, carburettor - how old is it - are the gaskets still good.

Check out the other threads. Plenty of people have had problems in the past.

Al.
 
Hey Al.
What do you mean by "pump it"?
Everything seems free, no sticking as such.

Its basicly brand new, only 2 tanks of fuel through it.

all the gaskets seem fine, no chunks or tears in them.

how do you go about checking compression and carby ect?

Thanks again,

Col
 
i have taken the new plug out a couple of times and yeah its wet.
if it is/was flooded, how do you un flood?

and is it getting flooded by trying to start it so much? i don't prime it heaps when trying to start it, if their is fuel in the bulb i don't prime at all,

Cheers
 
Yes it will flood from trying to start it to much if the plug is wet then it is getting to much fuel the best way I have found to un flood the engine is to remove the spark plug and let the engine air out over night I also like to remove all the gas from the tank also. If there is a way you can turn your car upside down to pour out any gas from the motor will help as well.
 
Also you stated that when you crank your you pull the choke down then pull the cord untill it tries to crank then you push the choke up then crank well every time you are pulling the cord with the choke down you are pulling in more gas and with the choke down it will not crank to burn the gas so therefore it is easier to flood the engine with the method you are using to crank.
 
The best way is when your needles are adjusted right and you prime the engine with the bulb it should start with in a few pulls without you having to choke the engine.
 
bolls300 said:
Hey Killer
Yeah mate, new plug, looks to have great spark.
cheers
Click to expand...

I have the km 2.0 and had similar probs.
Started at about 4 tanks with engine up and down in revs and when hot reving its head off,i found it to be the nylon gasket behind the carb was not filed down smooth, it had title bumps on it, I filed these down smooth and that sorted
it.
The next thing, the piston body started rubbing on the cylinder head and got worse until it couldn't be turned over, I got browned off with the piece of crap and took the barstuard out, then got a new hpi fuelie cy 26 and put that in, no probs. Now.
Good luck mate, your gona need it.:(
 
KM carbs are a cheap copy of the walbro carbs and have been known to fail quite quickly. That said I would reset the needles to stock and check the coil gap is set right (being an RTR it may have moved due to poor assembly in the factory). You are obviously getting fuel so try starting it without choke if its coming out of a nice warm house - my marder used to fire up 2nd or 3rd pull with no choke when it was a bit newer! If it doesn't start try opening up the idle screw a bit to see if that helps but put it up against a wall or kerb just in case you open it too much & it tries taking off :lol:
 
dwarfy said:
KM carbs are a cheap copy of the walbro carbs and have been known to fail quite quickly. That said I would reset the needles to stock and check the coil gap is set right (being an RTR it may have moved due to poor assembly in the factory). You are obviously getting fuel so try starting it without choke if its coming out of a nice warm house - my marder used to fire up 2nd or 3rd pull with no choke when it was a bit newer! If it doesn't start try opening up the idle screw a bit to see if that helps but put it up against a wall or kerb just in case you open it too much & it tries taking off :lol:[/QUOTE
Key word, poor assembly, just 1 other thing buddy, when you inevitably take the thing out, be careful with the Allen bolts, mine were in unbelievably tight, you need heat and a small hammer and if they are as bad as mine were, a drill and a tap and die set, but you may be lucky and everything will be fine, I'm just preparing you incase it doesn't .
It also cost me a new aluminium clutch holder and it wasn't me that took it out, it was rosendale mods. They were doing me a favour for 25 pound, so he said.]
Click to expand...
 
to start a flodded motor quickly. close the high needle and the low needle. you can leave the low needle open a smidge if you want but it will work either way. pull the plug and dry it off, reinstall and fire it up while holding full throttle on your transmitter. it may take a few pulls, it should try to start running after the first few and then die. shortly there after it shoulf fire on up, quickly lift the rear of the car and run it till it dies. at that time the engine is clear of fuel. reopen needle to 1 1/2 h- 1 1/8 L. don't use the choke. fire it up, pumping the throttle a bit.

if that doesn't work and all other bits such as coil gap, defined spark, new plug, airleaks are sorted then likely it is that clone carb. they are seriously junk mate. i had one a long while back and it literally crapped out in less that a whole tank of fuel. put on a walbro and the engine ran good but didnt last long. those clone motors are just no good. not bashing yor rig buddy, its just the cold hard truth.
 
Back
Top