King Motors 2.0

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S

SiRaDuDe

Well-Known Member
Messages
51
Location
Puerto Rico
Hi all....

Newbie in the 1/5 scale, anyways...

I just got a New KM 2.0 http://www.kingmotor.cn/carshow1.asp

And it look pretty solid, with mostly all parts in Alloy and I was just wondering if there is anything I should be looking out for... I got this version because of all the alloy parts... so if clone plastic was an issue i would just go around it..

I just read somewhere here about the missing metal rings on the wheels.

Anything else I should look out for?

It does have a 29cc... I also upgraded the pipe to a DDM, a 5000mah battery pack, pull start pre-filter and a new workx front bumper... TGN filter on its way...

Also, anyone know of any engine upgrades that can be done to this 29cc KM engine (i really don't know what engine brans this has just assume is a KM), I don't need any engine upgrade for now... just like to know if anyone has done any to this engine in particular.

I will be doing engine tune and a short breakin tomorrow if weather permits...

I put on a painted HPI body with HPI stickers just to be incognito :ph34r:
 
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Welcome buddy,,,,nice looking baja those ones,,don't know if I would call them a clone with all that alloy stuff,,,,,,,,,,just a baja!!!

I don't have the metal rings on mine and they are fine,,,,,,,and I drive mine hard,,,,a lot.
Sperera will vouch for that!

But i've heard of them busting very easy too.

The pullstart on them is not the best quality (pawl is brittle plastic & wears out too quick),,,replace with Zenoah after it breaks.

The rest of the engine should be fine so long as it is tuned right and gets plenty of oil,,,& retighten head bolts after the first 3-4 runs to help prevent gasket blowouts.

This is not by any means to discourage you,,,as many other brands have these minor issues as well,,,,,,,,,,,,,,mine did!

Just remember that your engines best friend is OIL!!

Post up some pics too bud.
 
you should of done your homework b4 you made this purchase,
Click to expand...

We can only assume by your comment you do not like this model.

This area is for "Other Manufactures" which includes this model.

We don't bash other models in the other manufactures forum.:nono:
 
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I would personally and do tear down all RTR models. There is almost always something forgotten or not quite right. You will learn a lot by tearing down your model and putting it back together. Good luck and happy 1/5 scaling.
 
So far... inspecting the model stetically... I'm satisfied with the quality of the parts..

I do agree on a tear down... I just noticed the front alignment to be way off, I will have to remove the horn and move then re align... no biggie..

The shocks are VVC and if anything they are too soft (bounces back quickly and sounds squishy)... maybe low on fluid or fluid too thin? I will inspect... no biggie either...

I haven't started it yet... work and weather not permitting.. it's raining like crazy here in PR...

I'm really interested in heavy bashing wit this thing (reason for alloy version selected)

For those things that may not hold up... then I will replace... yes even if that means engine too... So hope fully I can give some feed back on my progress... and judge the model by its performance.

This Baja was not purchased to be babied and I know I will break things (and my driving skills aren't the best:))... isn't that part of the fun?

I've read something about a possible missing bearing issue with KM... what bearing is this and where is it located so I can verify.

To the HPI guys... well.... thanks for the parts support:stick:... but I'm not posting in your area..:flowers:

I saw that the KM 3.0 comes in kit version... I just never found a U.S. source for it.

I will keep this thread updated with my findings for reference to those interested...
 
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These were some of the parts in the basic 2.0 kit:

The following Orange Aluminum parts are installed
Front and rear upper and lower A-Arms
Special inner and outer beadlocks
Front and rear shock towers
Front and rear shock tower braces and supports
Front and rear hubs
New alloy clutch housing


29cc Engine
Improved VVC shocks, much softer then original King motor shocks (6mm shafts instead of 4mm works much better)
Black Wheels, with Aluminum beadlocks
Improved Alloy differential
8000 rpm clutch
Improved LCD computer 3-channel 2.4g Radio with built in failsafe
Super Hi torque (30kg) Metal Gear and carbon plastic gear Steering servo to help control all that power!
Hi torque (15kg) all metal gear throttle/brake servo for more stopping power.
Clear (unpainted) body
Aluminum Hi performance tuned pipe installed
Strong Chrome plated Steel Roll Cage
Lots of spare parts included (lots of screws, nuts, bolts, e-clips, set screws)
Some spare plastic parts also included (a-arms, shock tower etc..)

Just for reference... and my Starting point... To this I have added.
Worx NEW Design front bumper
Pull start Pre-filter
some billet parts (gas cap, pull start, filter cover...) no performance gain but looks nice!
5000mah Battery
HPI Painted Body (Orange, Yellow, Red)
KM Sand and Road tire sets
DDM style pipe
 
welcome to the forum. here it doesn't matter what brand you run, unlike other places. the way I see it is if it is fun then it's a good rc. if it breaks a lot it isn't. I have had name brands that break a lot too... all have their little foibles... it's whether there is a fix or not available that makes or breaks a model
 
SiRaDuDe said:
I've read something about a possible missing bearing issue with KM... what bearing is this and where is it located so I can verify.
Click to expand...

The infamous missing bearing is from the layshaft where it enters the gearbox,,when you open the box you will find on one side there will be a bearing,,,,,,,,on the other side there will only be a crappy little rubber seal where the bearing should be.

Definately put one in there for durability's sake!

If the rear brace breaks through it's weak point (the two short bits where the brake disc is) the spur would strip quicker than a $2 hooker,,,,,or munch the guts out of the box.

One extra bearing is cheap insurance on the gears.
 
Hello and welcome.

Nice looking Baja you got there. I wouldnt go around calling it a clone personally. Alloy is good :)

Like the others said give it a good once over, the only baja ive seen in action besides my old XRC which I don't have anymore is Rossco's and believe me that thing can take a beating!
 
Rossco said:
The infamous missing bearing is from the layshaft where it enters the gearbox,,when you open the box you will find on one side there will be a bearing,,,,,,,,on the other side there will only be a crappy little rubber seal where the bearing should be.
Click to expand...


gearbox1.jpg
Is it the one here labeled as D04?
If so I will inspect to see if they are still having this issue...

If so... what would be the HPI part# or the Name for me to find it...

Thanks...

If it's not this bearing please bare with me Im a noob but I learn fast...

If it is this bearing... why would the manual state they are using 2 same bearings on both sides?
 
Wrong one bud,,,,,,,,the layshaft is the long one labled (A070).

The missing bearing goes in place of the (seal A097)&(retainer clip B072)

The bearing to go in there is (D03) which are the same as the wheel bearings.
 
SiRaDuDe said:
These were some of the parts in the basic 2.0 kit:

The following Orange Aluminum parts are installed
Front and rear upper and lower A-Arms
Special inner and outer beadlocks
Front and rear shock towers
Front and rear shock tower braces and supports
Front and rear hubs
New alloy clutch housing


29cc Engine
Improved VVC shocks, much softer then original King motor shocks (6mm shafts instead of 4mm works much better)
Black Wheels, with Aluminum beadlocks
Improved Alloy differential
8000 rpm clutch
Improved LCD computer 3-channel 2.4g Radio with built in failsafe
Super Hi torque (30kg) Metal Gear and carbon plastic gear Steering servo to help control all that power!
Hi torque (15kg) all metal gear throttle/brake servo for more stopping power.
Clear (unpainted) body
Aluminum Hi performance tuned pipe installed
Strong Chrome plated Steel Roll Cage
Lots of spare parts included (lots of screws, nuts, bolts, e-clips, set screws)
Some spare plastic parts also included (a-arms, shock tower etc..)

Just for reference... and my Starting point... To this I have added.
Worx NEW Design front bumper
Pull start Pre-filter
some billet parts (gas cap, pull start, filter cover...) no performance gain but looks nice!
5000mah Battery
HPI Painted Body (Orange, Yellow, Red)
KM Sand and Road tire sets
DDM style pipe
Click to expand...

sounds like a well hop,d up buggy , i got sq baja in september but sorry i never got the king 20, wich retail in england for £500 all these alloy parts and a 2.4g hand set, you can,t go wrong
 
Bigger the Better said:
do tear down all RTR models. There is almost always something forgotten or not quite right.
Click to expand...

Absolutely BTB.
Tore down NDOGGYDIZZLE's baja last night to do the mesh mods for him & engine inspection before it's maiden voyage,,,,,,,,,,,,good thing I did.

There was copper & chrome plating from inside the pipe right throughout the engine??????????????

A start up with that in there would have been diabolical.

Makes me wonder how many people have got them out of the box, run them straight up and killed them on the first tank????????????

Luckily for doggy,, nothing was damaged,,,,,,,just stripped it down and washed it out and reassembled it.
 
I did notice when I removed the aluminum tuned pipe to add the DDM style chrome pipe that inside this DDM style pipe there was a lot of what looked like thin copper colored paper/foil and when I blew thought it with air a whole mess of this stuff came out of it...

Don't know what it was but if it were to blow into the engine by chance... it would have made a mess of things
 
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