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This is a pre-run review of the KM Rear Tuned Pipe.
This is not a performance review. That will come in spring when my son tries it out.
In this review we will compare it to the DDM Dominator. The DDM pipe is the only pipe that looks like the KM tuned pipe since it is where its design came from.
Before anyone gets heated over the debate of the KM copy, please look over the below information and you will see it is not as close a copy as you/we think.
Here is a bit on tuned pipes before we start.
A tuned pipe is tuned to a certain design to perform the best with a certain engine. Some pipes will not perform as well with different motors. The best tuned pipe is one you have hand made for your own motor. Ya, right. Most designers will try to design a pipe that will tune the best to a variety of makes and model of engine.
Here is a small diagram of what a tuned pipe does. It also allows you to see what happens to a pipe that is not a perfect match for your motor. http://www.bukupower.com/animateCorrect.html
The KM shape from a distance might look like the DDM but after inspection it differs greatly from it.
Here is the pipe above the DDM pipe:
The exhaust header on the KM has been welded to the 1st part of the pipe instead of the flange being welded to the end of the pipe.
A double weld can be seen where a small piece of pipe was added to help make the header pipe to expansion connect. Remember that any unsmooth or rough areas in the inside of the pipe can make it less effective (see the diagram).
You can see where the pipe was pressed into the mold to form the pipe shape and scratched the pipe finish.
Exit photo.
The bracket fits right where it needed to be.
Surprisingly not one piece of plastic is touched by the pipe anywhere.
The exit tube just passes the wing to throw exhaust away.
I can’t tell you enough the importance of torque. Using a torque wrench is the only way to insure the proper bolt tightness. I cranked on the bolts with my T handle allen wrench and could only get around ¾ of the proper torque. After using my torque wrench I was able to get it to the right tightness. The bolt head actually dents into the pipe flange when tight.
I always use an epoxy of some sort to help ease the vibration back out and to seal the bolt to the pipe. My epoxy ends up burning but it holds just the same.
Overall the KM pipe is smaller in all dimensions. Remember that with any pipe size or dimensions you change so does/can performance. Only a dyno could tell us the difference. It is a great low cost alternative at $50.00US. I am happy with it for the price we paid.
Dimensions KM (Left) vs. DDM (Right):
Smallest header measurement (Straight pipe from header): 21.5mm / 22.5mm
Length of pipe until 1st sign of pipe bend (Straight pipe from header): 86mm / 98mm
Width of pipe at bend (Both widest and thinnest): 21.5 to 25.5mm / 23.7 to 25.5mm
Fattest point of expansion chamber: 46.5mm / 52.5mm
This is not a performance review. That will come in spring when my son tries it out.
In this review we will compare it to the DDM Dominator. The DDM pipe is the only pipe that looks like the KM tuned pipe since it is where its design came from.
Before anyone gets heated over the debate of the KM copy, please look over the below information and you will see it is not as close a copy as you/we think.
Here is a bit on tuned pipes before we start.
A tuned pipe is tuned to a certain design to perform the best with a certain engine. Some pipes will not perform as well with different motors. The best tuned pipe is one you have hand made for your own motor. Ya, right. Most designers will try to design a pipe that will tune the best to a variety of makes and model of engine.
Here is a small diagram of what a tuned pipe does. It also allows you to see what happens to a pipe that is not a perfect match for your motor. http://www.bukupower.com/animateCorrect.html
The KM shape from a distance might look like the DDM but after inspection it differs greatly from it.
Here is the pipe above the DDM pipe:
The exhaust header on the KM has been welded to the 1st part of the pipe instead of the flange being welded to the end of the pipe.
A double weld can be seen where a small piece of pipe was added to help make the header pipe to expansion connect. Remember that any unsmooth or rough areas in the inside of the pipe can make it less effective (see the diagram).
You can see where the pipe was pressed into the mold to form the pipe shape and scratched the pipe finish.
Exit photo.
The bracket fits right where it needed to be.
Surprisingly not one piece of plastic is touched by the pipe anywhere.
The exit tube just passes the wing to throw exhaust away.
I can’t tell you enough the importance of torque. Using a torque wrench is the only way to insure the proper bolt tightness. I cranked on the bolts with my T handle allen wrench and could only get around ¾ of the proper torque. After using my torque wrench I was able to get it to the right tightness. The bolt head actually dents into the pipe flange when tight.
I always use an epoxy of some sort to help ease the vibration back out and to seal the bolt to the pipe. My epoxy ends up burning but it holds just the same.
Overall the KM pipe is smaller in all dimensions. Remember that with any pipe size or dimensions you change so does/can performance. Only a dyno could tell us the difference. It is a great low cost alternative at $50.00US. I am happy with it for the price we paid.
Dimensions KM (Left) vs. DDM (Right):
Smallest header measurement (Straight pipe from header): 21.5mm / 22.5mm
Length of pipe until 1st sign of pipe bend (Straight pipe from header): 86mm / 98mm
Width of pipe at bend (Both widest and thinnest): 21.5 to 25.5mm / 23.7 to 25.5mm
Fattest point of expansion chamber: 46.5mm / 52.5mm