Lateral Thinking.

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atom3624

atom3624

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Location
Cold, wet, windy St Helens, U.K.
I've recently changed and have gone 'the whole hog' to double Rhino steering after a 'slight roll' ( !!! :(:clown::no::clown::( !!! ) snapped the Hitec plastic shaft clean in 2.
This gave me a problem that seemed insurmountable.
You've possibly seen me mention servo horns and throw on several threads - this is why.
My MT has the usual screw-in (to the horn) slider and was mounted with the screw inboard, the slider holding the throttle rod out.
With the 2 Rhinos this seriously restricted the positioning. I was only getting perhaps 2/3 throttle, with a similar mounting procedure, indeed placing the throttle bar next to the Rhino.
I even drilled the carburettor 'cam' (plate to which the throttle rod is attached) midway between the normal and the screw / pivot point - this barely gave me just enough, but was obviously NOT RIGHT.

I've recently bought a Hong Kong (aka FleaBay) Special 2.4 GHz 3-channel radio / receiver set, which has digital adjustment and permits 'up to 120%' which should be enough.

THEN IT DAWNED ON ME, THIS MORNING !!! :)
The part that is MOVING the rod is mounted INBOARD, where the servo horn is not moving 'efficiently' if it's throw that's required.
IF I ROTATE THIS and screw the slider into the outermost hole ... BLOODY PERFECT, and just as it was before I started fathing around, and with the carburettor / linkage set as it should be ... headache over :clown:
Amazing it took so long for something so damned obvious!!
 
atom3624 said:
I've recently changed and have gone 'the whole hog' to double Rhino steering after a 'slight roll' ( !!! :(:clown::no::clown::( !!! ) snapped the Hitec plastic shaft clean in 2.
This gave me a problem that seemed insurmountable.
You've possibly seen me mention servo horns and throw on several threads - this is why.
My MT has the usual screw-in (to the horn) slider and was mounted with the screw inboard, the slider holding the throttle rod out.
With the 2 Rhinos this seriously restricted the positioning. I was only getting perhaps 2/3 throttle, with a similar mounting procedure, indeed placing the throttle bar next to the Rhino.
I even drilled the carburettor 'cam' (plate to which the throttle rod is attached) midway between the normal and the screw / pivot point - this barely gave me just enough, but was obviously NOT RIGHT.

I've recently bought a Hong Kong (aka FleaBay) Special 2.4 GHz 3-channel radio / receiver set, which has digital adjustment and permits 'up to 120%' which should be enough.

THEN IT DAWNED ON ME, THIS MORNING !!! :)
The part that is MOVING the rod is mounted INBOARD, where the servo horn is not moving 'efficiently' if it's throw that's required.
IF I ROTATE THIS and screw the slider into the outermost hole ... BLOODY PERFECT, and just as it was before I started fathing around, and with the carburettor / linkage set as it should be ... headache over :clown:
Amazing it took so long for something so damned obvious!!
Click to expand...

:2guns::2guns: hate things like that but it's a great feelin when you suss it out :clown::clown: good on ya bud nice work!

post some pics as it may help someone in the future buddy :cool2:
 
Thanks for bearing with, and reading !!
I was going mad with it. It's (don't shout too loud) perfect now.
Photos. Only of after the event, so not sure - certainly don't want to undo, replace as was ... !!
All I need now is to replace the Y-harness on my brakes and my Crissy present to myself - hydraulic brakes - are on line!! Using a Savox 1256TG on the master cylinder.
QUESTION:
What length of nitro fuel tubing do you typically use on the rear brake?

Basically I want my brakes to be slightly too powerful, so I can 'feather' them and not have to HEAVE each time I want to brake.
 
glad you sort,d it alan, will the f,g be making a comeback this sunday then, tho i did like yea emaxx thanks for giving me a go of it when my baja took the knock:no::no:
 
atom3624 said:
Thanks for bearing with, and reading !!
I was going mad with it. It's (don't shout too loud) perfect now.
Photos. Only of after the event, so not sure - certainly don't want to undo, replace as was ... !!
All I need now is to replace the Y-harness on my brakes and my Crissy present to myself - hydraulic brakes - are on line!! Using a Savox 1256TG on the master cylinder.
QUESTION:
What length of nitro fuel tubing do you typically use on the rear brake?

Basically I want my brakes to be slightly too powerful, so I can 'feather' them and not have to HEAVE each time I want to brake.
Click to expand...

you don't use nitro fuel tubing for hyd brakes:no:as it will just try and balloon
 
1. Pablo, thanks and you're welcome. You were a tad too gentle as well - which I suppose was appreciated! I'm not used to seeing it going slowly!!
I straightened out the shock tower with a little (less than!) gentle persuasion. I'm after Unlimited Engineering Knucklehead shock towers - everything else of theirs is the best. I want to avoid RPM, not because they're no good (we all know they're great) but because I want to stick with metal mounts.
P.M. me on how the clutch is getting on.
If the FG one will do, I'll bring my 'old one' along on Sunday all being well. Unfortunately I don't think it's that simple!!
2. Trebor, I'm doing it again, and confusing the issue. No way is there nitro tubing on the hydro brakes. I was talking about on the rod at the back for the single 'standard' rear brake. Mine had a piece 12-14mm long and was just fully compressed with the servo on 'full brake'. I've cut this down to perhaps 6mm, but I want to be able to brake hard.
As I've a DDM Dominator exhaust on, I cannot fit the old front disks to the rear in the 'normal manner', but may still find a way around this, and am looking at even having 5-disk brakes - that'd be something!! :clown::clown:
 
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