Trip
Well-Known Member
About 2 weeks ago I decided to change the oil in my shocks and I noticed on disassembly that one of the rears was leaking pretty badly. So I grabbed a rebuild kit and put the shocks back together. The same one was leaking again. I know it was resembled properly, it's only 2 o-rings and a washer held in by a little clip...
After disassembling it again and throughly inspecting it, nothing seemed wrong. The o-rings were smooth with no tears and the shock shafts are like new. I used AE Green Slime on reassembly.
So refusing to put it back together to have it leak again, I cut pieces of silicone fuel tubing, 2mm long and slid them into place with the o-rings... This is the same fuel tubing used for nitro trucks.
I used two, 2mm pieces per shaft with the new o-rings. I inserted the o-rings first, then I crammed the silicone fuel tubing in after the o-rings and smashed the washer in place, I reinstalled the clip and filled the shock. It was rather tight in there, but w/o oil the shock shaft slid nice and easy. It felt great so I filled the shock with 40wt.
*Note* Remember to fill the shock body to the line on the inside of the shock body with oil and cycle the shaft up and down to see if there are any bubbles trapped in the oil. After the bubbles have escaped, push the piston right to the line in the shock body, then install the shock cap. If you install the cap with the piston at the bottom, the shock won't compress and it will be solid as a rock. Not Good!
Anyway,
I waited for about an hour after filling before I reinstalled the shock on the car just to be sure they weren't going to leak again. Everything was fine and the shock still had a nice slight rebound, so I did the same thing to the other three shocks and I am happy to report they are still dry and so are my covers!
It has been 2 weeks and my shocks are still dry and working properly.
So if you are tired of your crappy silver threaded body shocks dumping all their shock oil out the bottom of the shock body and making a mess, this tip may be for you.
Good Luck,
Trip..
After disassembling it again and throughly inspecting it, nothing seemed wrong. The o-rings were smooth with no tears and the shock shafts are like new. I used AE Green Slime on reassembly.
So refusing to put it back together to have it leak again, I cut pieces of silicone fuel tubing, 2mm long and slid them into place with the o-rings... This is the same fuel tubing used for nitro trucks.
I used two, 2mm pieces per shaft with the new o-rings. I inserted the o-rings first, then I crammed the silicone fuel tubing in after the o-rings and smashed the washer in place, I reinstalled the clip and filled the shock. It was rather tight in there, but w/o oil the shock shaft slid nice and easy. It felt great so I filled the shock with 40wt.
*Note* Remember to fill the shock body to the line on the inside of the shock body with oil and cycle the shaft up and down to see if there are any bubbles trapped in the oil. After the bubbles have escaped, push the piston right to the line in the shock body, then install the shock cap. If you install the cap with the piston at the bottom, the shock won't compress and it will be solid as a rock. Not Good!
Anyway,
I waited for about an hour after filling before I reinstalled the shock on the car just to be sure they weren't going to leak again. Everything was fine and the shock still had a nice slight rebound, so I did the same thing to the other three shocks and I am happy to report they are still dry and so are my covers!
It has been 2 weeks and my shocks are still dry and working properly.
So if you are tired of your crappy silver threaded body shocks dumping all their shock oil out the bottom of the shock body and making a mess, this tip may be for you.
Good Luck,
Trip..