Leopard Rear suspension

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SELWA

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I need some help with an issue I have. My Leopard doesn't bottom out in the rear and my concern is the force will be transferred somewhere else!! I will be in a demo race at the end of the summer and it will be a 1/8 track so the jumps may be a bit much for it. I'll post some pics tonight of my set up. Without the shocks on I still have close to 1/2" spacing between the chassis and ground!!

I'm using the full elcon/krikke rear end and still have dogbones but will get the ball drives one day. When I remove the upright risers with the 32mm turnbuckle I have less travel then with them off and using the long, stock turnbuckle. I can use alloy or plastic ball ends as well.

Last thing I want to do it go off a jump and land breaking or bending something during the demo largescale race!!

Simon I see you use the diff risers and the long turnbuckle set up. I may have ot try that one out. Any secrets you can PM me??
 

Bigger the Better

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Not sure if the Leopard has it but, wouldn't if compressed, the rear dif guard on the bottom of the chassis not allow the vehicle to go all the way down anyway? Might be stupid but oh, well had to ask anyway.:)
 
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SELWA

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The Leopard has no diff guard since it's raised slightly. As for the dogbones, they still have room to move. When I use the new spiked tires or KCR tractor tires it's worst since the buggy sits higher.

I'll take a few pics soon.
 
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SELWA

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Here's pic with the 2 different setups. One the left side I can get more movement. (longer turnbuckle and plastic ball end)

On the right you can see the shock doesn't fully compress. (small tunrbuckle and Krikke/Elcon upright extenders)

2dimufo.jpg

For now I choose to leave it this way. At least the plastic ball ends have some "give". What I did realize is the chassis has a bend in it!!


44lv59w.jpg
 

Kwakr

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this might be a silly question...you sure that the shock isnt overfull with oil??

ok..maybe you can just ignore this...just re-read...two different setups.....
 
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SELWA

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The next time I take apart the rear I'll bend the chassis back a bit so it's flush, and I'll add the stock raiser to let the chassis move donw further. Hopefully with this it will be much better. I'm also not sure how much of a difference the ball drives make with respect to the movement of the suspension. (Does it let the arms travel up and down further?)
 

Bigger the Better

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Hey, Selwa I think you've had enough of trying to figure out such a difficult problem. How's this I was thinking I could help, just box it up and tell me how much you want for shipping, I'll get it fixed up, and test it out for well, lets say a year and then get it back to you. Oh, and don't worry I'll also pay for the return shipping.:clown:

Good luck man.:)
 
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SELWA

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:clown: I'm so lucky to have fellow rc'ers offering their time and patience to help me out in such a stressfull situation. :clown: It's been raining here but the temps are getting close to 10C!!! Looks like the Leo with be getting dirty this weekend!!! Wife works so I'm free to do what ever!!
 

Rex

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If you move the top mount of the shocks to the innermost holes, then you should be able to get the Suspension to move somewhat higher.

Are you using the Elcon Leopard mounts for the rear A-Arms?(Elcon PN 12504)
12504.gif

Btw: Why have you replaced the Ball Drive with Dog Bones?
The Leopard Race should come standard with Ball Drive. (just like the Marder Race does)
 
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SELWA

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I have the stock Elcon arms since Krikke hasn't anodized those new Leopard Parts just yet. I may just add a 1/4" spacer to compensate. As for the dogbones/balldrives. My Leopard race was an older one with a 23CC when I bought it from a friend. I switch engines with my Marder before I sold it. Then a few months ago I rebuilt it to a 30.5 race ported machine!! :cool2:

I have spare dogbones/cups and axles so I'll go through them first!!

I"ve also found if you cups get worn in from the torque just flip them around and you have a new surface for the dogbones to hit. (since we only drive forward)
 

whizzy

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hi i run 5000 shock oil in back and 3000 shock oil in front with standard fg springs and the suspension works the way it should however as said if u fill them up too much u get the the problem that the shock doesn't fully compress as i had that problem myself and thats how i rectifyed it
 

Rex

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With Carson MT wheels, Elcon Leopard Rear mounts, Elcon Raised Dif mount
andd unadjustable Elcon XL Rear arms I have around 14mm free when the shocks are fully compressed.

On the Xl Shock Mounts I have moved to Hole 2 from the center, instead of Hole 3, and to the outermost hole on the lower shockmount, in order to lover the car a bit.

With Leopard Race Wheels and Supergrip tires I have around 5mm free, I might be able to lover the car ½-1mm more, but then Drive axes have absolutely NO free play.
 

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Rex

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Btw. I got my Leo Race used 2½ years ago. with a 23cc engine, and Ball Drive.

The only things left of what I bought are:
The crankcase
Alu Gear plate (7474)
Rear Brake(7497)
Control Rods
The shocks(not the springs)
The rear wing in Steel
The chassis plate and 2 or 3 pieces of the roll cage.
 
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whizzy

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no i run with a lauterbacher rear end and it also has the lauterbacher shocks on it and the reason for this is that one of elcons ex team drivers made a claim that the elcon stuff was weak and when they passed on the information nothing was done about it and i also run hormann gearing too and i have the kpd wideboy kit on the front which makes the car very stable and allows u to throw it about at speed
 
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SELWA

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I saw the wider kits myself. But since I have a full Krikke/Elcon package now no point to change it. Besides racing hasn't started off here yet. It will take some time.

I'll post some better inside pics of my Leopard later
 

whizzy

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hi heres pictures of the front side and rear of mine without the shell

DSC00640.jpg

DSC00645.jpg

DSC00644.jpg
 
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