Lets Get a headcount

Lets Get a headcount

  • Gearplate (bearings, gears,etc.)

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Wheels (tires, foam, rim)

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Differential

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Bearings (other than the gearplate)

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Engine/Exhaust

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Total voters
    0
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djbuzzard

djbuzzard

Well-Known Member
Messages
557
Reaction score
15
Location
Ashburn, VA USA
I am starting to get concerned that some of the drivetrain/suspension issues we are seeing are misrepresented by a few. Not trying to stir up any controversy but I haven't experienced any of the issues that the majority seem to be having. My only real issue was the gear plate bearings and them going bad and destroying my gears.
 
i've had all the problems but the dif case. recently i tore the buggy down and found the bearing was getting very loose in the dif case and on the verge of breaking. now i can say that i have all the problems.
 
Wheel bearings already loose & sloppy. However, I am running aluminum wheels on extended axles. This adds more strain on the wheel bearings. Only four tanks through her.
 
I was the first one in this area to blow the rear diff housing,I was not on the track when this happened. I was in a flat field ,practiceing my victory donuts when mine blew,I lost all my inards.
 
I know I had more issues when I was running the 35/25/25/25 gearing. When I went back to 31/29/25/25, I haven't had any new issues. I am still puzzled by the diff issues ya'll have had cause I have been running my XB hard since I got it.
 
bbuzzard said:
I know I had more issues when I was running the 35/25/25/25 gearing. When I went back to 31/29/25/25, I haven't had any new issues. I am still puzzled by the diff issues ya'll have had cause I have been running my XB hard since I got it.
Click to expand...
I've reported two diff case failures but it was really one. The second time I was grinding my pinion and crown gear just because my diff cup bearing went out. That was my fault. They were stock bearings and I ran em for about a year and 5 months and didn't pay attention. I have a feeling one of these days your gonna have a bad wreck and the case is gonna go out. After a bad wreck when your rear wing takes a good hit check the diff case for us. I'm hoping we start seeing a pattern.
 
My biggest gripe with the XB/XT/XBe line is the wheels/tire/foams. Sure I have toasted a few wheel bearings before I upgraded to 7075rc Knuckles and rear uprights. That I can live with.

Ive stripped out like 3 wheels, and the foams turn to dust in a just a few runs. If they would put some molded foams in the tires and add some reinforcement to the hub area on the wheels they would be golden. That has been my biggest issue with the car. I could always go to Baja sized tires, but I like the lightness and small diameter of the stockers.
 
Yeah, I swapped out my wheels to GRP Bulldogs with a minor mod to the wheels to fit. I did this early before my stockers crapped out.
 
12 rear and one front diff housing failures evn modified ones and 3 gear plates

on both mine and my friend buggys.

15 minutes of racing and heat softens all plastics then it`s gone.

I put TT V2 metal gearplate and waiting for updated housing or any cause can`t find them anywhere.
 
As Obeast44 said, the tires do suck. I never ran mine. I can squish them flat as if there was no foam inside. I would say maybe on the xbe, but the xb is way to heavy for them.
 
bbuzzard said:
Yeah, I swapped out my wheels to GRP Bulldogs with a minor mod to the wheels to fit. I did this early before my stockers crapped out.
Click to expand...
Yes bbuzzard i did the same thing one set of rears-one set of fronts medium compound, have only ran the 4 fronts dammed near too much traction even on wet short cut grass - got a killer deal fron go-nads internet sale! The bearings factory oil must be akin to 3 in 1 oil, needs something like Hilton Hyper lube - Overall I rate the xb gas buggy a solid 10 on the rictor scale, all it needs is 7075rc to come up with an enclosed center gear housing that is compatable with demons tranny - then head to the blow sand dunes and let er rip!! For the Money, this brand is a kick-ass deal!!!
 
Wheel Bearings and POS stock exhaust! Both problems fixed with Jetpro Pipe and 7075 Hubs
 
Gear plate snapped in two, check. Stripped all 4 square wheel hubs, check. Tire foams turned to dust, check. Rear diff housing snapped while bearings are still smooth, check. Exhaust? I don't know. I never tried it although the previous owner did because the body is all curled up and melted around where it was. The silicone coupler was cracked but that just happens.

My thoughts? Well, no R/C company attempts to fix every common fault. I've grown to accept that years ago. Am I happy with the problems I've had? Certainly not. I've had more problems with this truck than any other I've had. That said, its also my first 5th scale so maybe that's just how it is.

My solutions? I replaced the plastic gear plate with the aluminum one which uses the larger bearings. I replaced all the foams with ones I made from air conditioner foam that you stick in windows, etc. 2 1/4" square by 2 feet long, cut in half and glued side by side, rolled into a circled, and shoved in the tire. A total of 4.5 inches wide foam all crammed in there seemed like just enough. Shortly after, my hubs spun out inside the wheels and remained difficult to keep tight so I got the Baja adapters and now running Proline Splitsix wheels with Trenchers. Looks funny but goes awesome.

Exhaust? Mine came with the DDM Dominator which was made for the MT. It was not on the truck but I made proper brackets, made a new rollcage, and installed it. The mods were all needed as the pipe hits everything as it wraps around the side so all the plastic supports had to go or be modded.

The rear diff explosion? That is a problem I have seen you guys tackle in a few different ways and I plan to do a combo of them. This just happened a couple days ago and my new case, crown gear, and diff gear are all on their way. Only an $80 repair. No big deal on a $570 truck right? :mad:

I plan to reinforce the diff cup bearing area with either an aluminum block or a metal strap as DemonRC has done. But I also plan to strip the chassis bare of all parts and weld or bolt frame rails from front to back to add as a backbone to what has been deemed a weak point by many of you guys. It will be added to the underside but I haven't mapped out the specifics yet. When I do it, I will take photos to document the process.

So, will this poll make a difference and get us upgraded wheels, bearings, plastic, etc? I highly doubt it but I challenge RedCat to respond with their thoughts. I believe that you can't build a truck for less money and just have it be a failure. Build a truck that will hold up and just charge what its worth. If I knew then what I know now, I would have bought something else. But I'm invested now so its a keeper.
 
since I have the prototypes what kind of bearings come in the production cars, mine have rubber seals and I have yet to have a problem with bearings. if you are having bearing issues, I say deal with it, and buy the upgrade bearings from largescalerc.com You can't expect top notch bearings in any RTR. No matter what brand you buy.
 
nitrohobbiest said:
Gear plate snapped in two, check. Stripped all 4 square wheel hubs, check. Tire foams turned to dust, check. Rear diff housing snapped while bearings are still smooth, check. Exhaust? I don't know. I never tried it although the previous owner did because the body is all curled up and melted around where it was. The silicone coupler was cracked but that just happens.My thoughts? Well, no R/C company attempts to fix every common fault. I've grown to accept that years ago. Am I happy with the problems I've had? Certainly not. I've had more problems with this truck than any other I've had. That said, its also my first 5th scale so maybe that's just how it is.

My solutions? I replaced the plastic gear plate with the aluminum one which uses the larger bearings. I replaced all the foams with ones I made from air conditioner foam that you stick in windows, etc. 2 1/4" square by 2 feet long, cut in half and glued side by side, rolled into a circled, and shoved in the tire. A total of 4.5 inches wide foam all crammed in there seemed like just enough. Shortly after, my hubs spun out inside the wheels and remained difficult to keep tight so I got the Baja adapters and now running Proline Splitsix wheels with Trenchers. Looks funny but goes awesome.

Exhaust? Mine came with the DDM Dominator which was made for the MT. It was not on the truck but I made proper brackets, made a new rollcage, and installed it. The mods were all needed as the pipe hits everything as it wraps around the side so all the plastic supports had to go or be modded.

The rear diff explosion? That is a problem I have seen you guys tackle in a few different ways and I plan to do a combo of them. This just happened a couple days ago and my new case, crown gear, and diff gear are all on their way. Only an $80 repair. No big deal on a $570 truck right? :mad:

I plan to reinforce the diff cup bearing area with either an aluminum block or a metal strap as DemonRC has done. But I also plan to strip the chassis bare of all parts and weld or bolt frame rails from front to back to add as a backbone to what has been deemed a weak point by many of you guys. It will be added to the underside but I haven't mapped out the specifics yet. When I do it, I will take photos to document the process.

So, will this poll make a difference and get us upgraded wheels, bearings, plastic, etc? I highly doubt it but I challenge RedCat to respond with their thoughts. I believe that you can't build a truck for less money and just have it be a failure. Build a truck that will hold up and just charge what its worth. If I knew then what I know now, I would have bought something else. But I'm invested now so its a keeper.
Click to expand...
would you like a pic of my side rails I made for mine?
 
Do these side rails link to the back where the diff is? Because if they don't, its not going to help hardly at all. The flex is all right directly in front of the diff mounting area where the chassis measures about 2 3/8 inches wide. Where the chassis is widest (where the stock, plastic side guards are) is where the chassis is strongest and also braced under the engine. You may have also noticed that the front section has an upturn to it and because of that bend, the chassis is hardened and doesn't flex as much. This is why the front doesn't suffer as often as the rears do, if ever.

But I would like to see your rails. I love mods!
 
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