Lightest Rampage In The World Project

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Vented clutchbell is on the v2 and I think v3 (Ill have to look) as standard equip. I had to get one for this build because it started as a v1 which has a solid clutch bell. The vents are large holes in the face of it.
 
Downgrading to single servo?


In my quest to reduce weight, I was thinking of going to 1 steering servo only. Seeing as I'm reducing the weight, is that going ot have a huge impact on


1) The servo's ability to do the work (Hitec servo)


2) the lifespan of the servo seeing as it's working harder


They are not light, so I figured I can shed some weight there for sure
 
mark said:
In my quest to reduce weight, I was thinking of going to 1 steering servo only. Seeing as I'm reducing the weight, is that going ot have a huge impact on
1) The servo's ability to do the work (Hitec servo)


2) the lifespan of the servo seeing as it's working harder


They are not light, so I figured I can shed some weight there for sure
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I run one 5745 w/ the light weight skinny front bowtie setup. Still going strong lots of tanks on original build servo.
 
Thanks hamster. I am running the proline desperados and bowtie tires (same size all around), I think it'll be fine.


I noticed you mention the V2 gear plate which I thought was plastic. I have a plastic gear plate (with aluminum insert at clutch) in the spares box when I bought it, and tried it today, but the metal gears bind with that on. The aluminum gear plate is 3.5oz heavier, but it works great, and no binding. I also have the plastic gears, but I think I'll stick to metal since I have a 27.2 full mod engine on the way.


Are you running the metal gears and aluminum gear plate?
 
Im running the "plastic" gearplate w/ the aluminum clutch insert as you described in both my v1 and my v3. I run plastick gears as well. Lightweight and no problems w/any of it.


I have tried metal gears w/ alum plate and plastic plate but had binding.


I tried the early run aluminum plate w/ plastic and metal gears but had bearing slop and binding.


Plastic-plastic is the combo that works best for me. I have heard though that the early runs of $60 gear plate had bearing slop but the new runs don't. However seeing how Redcat burned me once on a $60 gearplate I will not buy another.
 
are there different versions of the plastic gear plates? I was thinking of trying the plastic gears and plastic plate, but since I had binding with the plastic plate and aluminum gears, I didn't know if it would be different with the plastic gears.
 
I tried the plastic gears and gear plate, now I'm down to 28.5lbs. Started at 30.4 (1/3 tank of fuel) and then dropped to 29.2lbs (1/3 fuel) when I went to plastic lower fr/r arms and camber links. Getting there.


I think 27 is realistic if I remove the second steering servo and go to plastic steering hub/holder (and rear hubs).


Thanks hamster Huey for your help. If I'm still not satisfied, I'll simply go with a new XT when they come out!
 
I think 23-23.5 are possible weight w/o gas.


My beadlock wheels/tires are heavy.


My engine is built up and heavy.


Apparently with this light of weight the diff is overbuilt?


There is more weight that can be removed from the chassis.


Have a few more ideas still
 
I thought you had sold your Ramp?


I'll try to weigh it without the gas, but everything else including batteries and RX. I have the open top body and rear wing as well as a 27.2 moded engine. We'll see.


I was debating removing the 'lip' on the chassis (both sides) between the wheels. I realize it's there for some protection, I just wonder how muhc it really does.
 
mark said:
I thought you had sold your Ramp?
I'll try to weigh it without the gas, but everything else including batteries and RX. I have the open top body and rear wing as well as a 27.2 moded engine. We'll see.


I was debating removing the 'lip' on the chassis (both sides) between the wheels. I realize it's there for some protection, I just wonder how muhc it really does.
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Those lips are the strength of the chassis,if remove you will get flexing and easy chassis damage in a crash.
 
But thats the question will the chassis hold up to normal driving conditions? Think about this the new xts have the same chassis as the mt/tt only theirs no side rails, doesn't seems to be a problem with the lighter xt?
 
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chevy said:
But thats the question will the chassis hold up to normal driving conditions? Think about this the new xts have the same chassis as the mt/tt only theirs no side rails, doesn't seems to be a problem with the lighter xt?
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I think they have put a crease on either side which strengthens the chassis on the XT but I think he was toying with cutting the sides of the MT which would leave him with no stiffeners
 
I got you zapped theirs has to be some kind of stiffiner I did some more lightening on it lasts night pulled the diff apart removed one set of spider gears screwed it back together and the diff worked fine its very smooth and lighter I don't see it being a problem with the p2w also I re drilled the chassis holes to 3/8ths did some more drilling on the upper plates im finishing the wheels and also p2w had the bigger shaft shocks so I switched back to the thinner shaft shocks, the dunerunner shock tower is quite heavy I have a lightened tower I will use thats all I can think of right now? Oh and im most likly gonna go with a 23cc or 25 I want a stock crank with a 28mm stroke and im thinking a 32mm bore for weight saving I think they make a ported and polished 23cc topend that will be plenty of hp my stock tt just spins the tires with my 28.5 so im shooting for rpms not torque then pipe I was thinking the jetpro dual bleed trackpipe?
 
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chevy said:
I got you zapped theirs has to be some kind of stiffiner I did some more lightening on it lasts night pulled the diff apart removed one set of spider gears screwed it back together and the diff worked fine its very smooth and lighter I don't see it being a problem with the p2w also I re drilled the chassis holes to 3/8ths did some more drilling on the upper plates im finishing the wheels and also p2w had the bigger shaft shocks so I switched back to the thinner shaft shocks, the dunerunner shock tower is quite heavy I have a lightened tower I will use thats all I can think of right now? Oh and im most likly gonna go with a 23cc or 25 I want a stock crank with a 28mm stroke and im thinking a 32mm bore for weight saving I think they make a ported and polished 23cc topend that will be plenty of hp my stock tt just spins the tires with my 28.5 so im shooting for rpms not torque then pipe I was thinking the jetpro dual bleed trackpipe?
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Chevy...Looks like you are trying to build a rocket there man.
 
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