looking for info on driveline parts

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gasgas

gasgas

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I've just recently got my MT back up and running and within about a half tank of fuel I stripped a diff gear again! Good thing I ordered two. I was under throttle and running on-road, came off a four inch speed bump and then a clickety clacking (sorry no other way to describe it) noise so I knew right away what it was, cause its what I heard the last time it happened. I read somwhere about upgrading the engine mounts and a couple other parts to stop the engine flexing but can't remember where. Can someone point me to where it might be or make some suggestions on what parts have to be changed to help this situation.
 
large and small engine mounts , contact fg universe on the side banner or largescale rc .. and any gears that are damaged as well .. the alloy spur gear carrier is also i good upgrade if you do not have it .. upper rear alloy arms aswell .. alloy diff convertion .. i could go on and on .. but get that resolved first ..
 
cyclops1970 said:
large and small engine mounts , contact fg universe on the side banner or largescale rc .. and any gears that are damaged as well .. the alloy spur gear carrier is also i good upgrade if you do not have it .. upper rear alloy arms aswell .. alloy diff convertion .. i could go on and on .. but get that resolved first ..
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This guy know what he is talking about. That's the same things i'm doing to my stadium truck right now. But i'm going with the alloy gear carrier plate P/N fg07474 with the upgraded Brake system fg07497. Hope this helps.

Jeff
 
Seeing your location you should also try shops closer to you. The UK Ebay aslo has loads of guys selling parts since there's so many FG's out there.

The reason your large spur gear gets stripped is because the lower arms flex but by buying an upper aluminum arm it helps this issue. I'd recommend Elcon parts over FG alloy ones. For me ithey worked out to be less expensive through Ron at Krikke Racing.
 
Cyclops1970 out of the list you provided I only have the alloy upper arms which are installed. Selwa I live in the Cayman Islands which isn't located in the UK but it is British dependent territory, but no hobby shops here. Everything I need I have order, which kinda sucks cause its real costly to import.
BTB the gear that got munched was the the diff ring around the diff itself. Thanks guys.
 
If you find stuff through the Ebay and it's a store you can always get them to put a lower value or send it as a sample. This is one way I've been able to save lots of $$ when importing anyting into Canada. We get a 13% tax/duty charge buy post. If it's a courier like UPS or FedEx it's more!
 
Selwa I tried that method before and got shafted. The customs agents here have internet on thier counter tops, so they go on and check the prices for themselves and I still get charged full value. Ill try ebay though to see what kinda deals I can find to save some cash.
I have another question I've been contemplating on getting an hpi baja. What would you guys say about the cost to repair a baja compared to a fg. I know thier probably of equal value when you start upgrading, but I'm comparing stock parts cost.
 
gasgas said:
Selwa I tried that method before and got shafted. The customs agents here have internet on thier counter tops, so they go on and check the prices for themselves and I still get charged full value. Ill try ebay though to see what kinda deals I can find to save some cash.
I have another question I've been contemplating on getting an hpi baja. What would you guys say about the cost to repair a baja compared to a fg. I know thier probably of equal value when you start upgrading, but I'm comparing stock parts cost.
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Sorry to hear that. I guess the other trick is to remove any header cards and have no invoice included.
As for the Baja it really depends if you local shops carry parts. Out here all the shops have or can get the parts. I have a Baja now but did prefer the FG's for the regular and upgrade parts.

If you need parts ask away and maybe we can help you find them at a good price.
 
gasgas said:
BTB the gear that got munched was the the diff ring around the diff itself. Thanks guys.
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May of already gone through this but, If the motor mount loosen and the mesh becomes too great the spurshaft/transfer gear will round off as well as the main differential gear. It is best to change out both gears in the case of stripping one. If you just replace the main diff gear then you need to switch the spurshaft/transfer gear around so that the good side of the gear is hitting your new diff gear and the rounded side is not used. If you do not do this the spurshaft/transfer gear will push the rear diff gear away when on acceleration and the problem will develop all over again.:crying:

If you are using stock FGMT gearing:

If it helps get the parts faster you can also use the main diff gear #DTXC8300 from a DuraTrax firehammer/MT http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHTW4&P=Z . The gear is 2.5mm thinner in width from side to side then the FG but will do the job the same. Link only for picture reference.
I also notice that DuraTrax with the new MT has used a 14T pinion gear. This should in theory work for the FG spur/transfer gear. The number is DTXC8891. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPMS5&P=Z .
Link only for picture reference.

DuraTrax has made it a bit less costly and a little easier for some to get their gears back up and running in non-FG dealer areas.

Good luck,
BTB
 
Thanks guys. Btb those are the diff gears I ordered. Figured they looked the same physically so it should work. I did not order the pinion though, now that I know its a possible alternative ill get that ordered asap. I have been dealing with with tower for my other rc's but they don't carry everything. Which leads me to my other problem I keep stripping out the lower suspension arm from the adjustment link on hard acceleration, this is on asphalt though. I'm guessing the lower alloy suspension arms would solve this? I'm running out helicoils. And the plastic suspension arms.
 
gasgas said:
Thanks guys. Btb those are the diff gears I ordered. Figured they looked the same physically so it should work. I did not order the pinion though, now that I know its a possible alternative ill get that ordered asap. I have been dealing with with tower for my other rc's but they don't carry everything. Which leads me to my other problem I keep stripping out the lower suspension arm from the adjustment link on hard acceleration, this is on asphalt though. I'm guessing the lower alloy suspension arms would solve this? I'm running out helicoils. And the plastic suspension arms.
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For the lower turnbuckles that strip out you mentioned, try this. The stock ones are 32mm. You can get 39MM turnbuckles. They can screw in more into the plastic of both ends and you should be fine. Around $10 for a pair. FG# 6100/04
 
Until you get some new longer ones try super gluing the rod into the plastic. This will work for a short time by melting the plastic against the threads. You could also try buying a long bolt the size of the hole and make your own. You would need a couple extra rod ends though.
 
Hey guys just an update. My mt seems to be running problem free now with the super glue trick. Thanks BTB. I have since made this repair and have run a total of 3 tanks back to back,(well not back to back had to charge my rx batts) over the last couple of days and a about a gallon of fuel over the weekend. So far no signs of the turnbuckles pulling out. This was just my usual driving on the asphalt topped road behind my house. This has also been the most fun I ever had with this truck. Before I might have gotten maybe a half tank of fuel before somthing broke. Now I'm very pleased, almost wanted to sell it. :)
 
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Sorry guys. :) I was a little frustrated and it got the best of me. If I did decide to sell I was going to replace it with another large scale, just somthing a little more friendly with parts availability.
 
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