MB Motor Mounts!!

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frumpy

frumpy

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I recently put a ddm torque pipe on my MB and it runs fine for five minutes and then my motor keeps moving as I lose the mesh between the layshaft pinion and diff gear,yes I still have the plastic motor mts and had to put longer screws in because the others were stripping out:(I didn't have this problem till I went to the DDM and the first couple of times the front wheels were in the air:w00t:

I think I already know the answer to this...alloy mtr mts:rolleyes:
 
alloy motors mounts are a must, if you don't have the dosh to keep you going till you can afford them make a bigger plate that attaches diff housing to large engine mount. the stock is a little on the flimsy side and can get destroyed buy landing rear wheels first off big jumps.

the only long term solution to this is to get the alloy engine mounts though. I think DPS sells them quite cheap if not i buy all my gear off CFR
 
I thought I read somewhere that there are 2 different large motor mts?One for cy and one for zenoah??:)I've seen 2 different ones:(Look at these??
 
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bigger screws are not the solution. Only new mounts will do ;) Make sure you locktite the screws in your new mounts.
 
only use loctite if you get alloy mounts, loctite in plastic will soften the plastic and make your problem worse.

i thenk a heli in the plastic is a temp solution, no reason why it wont work short term. I know their pricey but will save you time and hassle in long run, spesh if the engine moves and ruins your layshaft and ring gear as they arnt cheap!
 
sperera said:
only use loctite if you get alloy mounts, loctite in plastic will soften the plastic and make your problem worse.
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Ive never had that problem bud. I use blue loctite and the screws work loose without it. The only problem I encountered was when I bought it & the guy who had it before me had overtightened the screws into the plastic & used loctite to hold em in place.
 
frumpy said:
Do you guys have to run the diff risers with the alloy mounts?:o
Click to expand...

I am running plastic mounts with good results. As I said, the guy that had the marder before me was a bit heavy handed so I replaced the existing fooked mounts with the std plastic items & they have been solid for over 12months including a full throttle runaway into a rock that bent the chassis :rolleyes:
I set up the layshaft / diff gear mesh & lock up the screws on the mounts then remove the screws 1 at a time & add blue loctite. I haven't had any problems with the mounts moving, poor meshing, screws coming loose etc. In fact my marder is all plastic 26cc, completely reliable & as quick as my mates all alloy 30cc cos of the weight difference.
 
I don't have the stock flat head screws and washers that come with it,I have regular socket head car screws with regular flat washers,but that should matter for the engine moving.In fact I can get these a bit tighter than the flat head screws with the philips heads on them and having to use a screwdriver instead of an allen wrench:)

I'm also running a DDM torque pipe and this thing is a real stump puller:w00t:
 
make sure the ally diff bracket that fixes to the large engine mount is not broken or missing. If it is the layshaft gear will separate from the diff gear under load. I made a stainless steel replacement for mine.
 
Can someone tell me the size of the screws on the side of the lg mount,not the ones that bolt up thru the chassis?:D
 
Pipe is right. Use an adhesive under the mount when you set it up and it will help them stop sliding. Some have also used a longer bolt and nut and run it right through the plastic mount. Make sure the mount plate - The small triangle piece in the back connecting to the diff. Is tight.
 
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