MCD Comp V4 Monster Truck-Assembly Thread

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Al,

I do have several planes. One is a giant Scale P-47 with a 5kw electric motor. Wingspan is 85" and it weighs 25 pounds. A couple picts below. I also have a 110" wingspan cub with a 50cc engine and several other planes of smaller sizes. Couple of helicopters but can only hover them.
 

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Two days of great flying weather and now rain has moved in. Got out my air brush tonight and cleaned it up. Will start practice painting tomorrow night. I'll pant the side guards black. I may mess with some gold trim.
 
Starting to Paint: Bad news

I’m using the pactra Racing Finish acryl. This is my first use of a quality airbrush: Paasche. I went with what I think is the largest flow head and needle I had and still had to thin the pint about 50% to get the flow up.

I made my first mistake by not adequately getting the mold release washed off. I started on the body side shields. I washed them in hot soapy water. One the first one I painted, on area had the paint crawl.

The second side had about 50% of the paint crawl. (Pict attached)

I have wet sanded the parts and used a SOS pad to wash them. Then rewashed with soapy water and a good rinse. I’ll try to paint them again to see if that does the job. Then I’ll have to address the body. I washed it and even wet sanded the inside; then i coated it with Bob Davy liquid mask. I did this before I painted the shields; now I wonder how well I removed the mold release on the body.

I wonder if the manufacturers could use a colored mold release so we could see it?

Wish me luck.
 

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Things have not gone well with painting.

I have been having problems with the paint not covering the lexan body. I thought it was because I did not get the mold release washed off but even after using an SOS pad, washing with hot soapy water, then wet sanding, the paint still pulls back like it is not compatible with the plastic.

I’m using Pactra Racing Finnish Acryl.

I'll not try to use a rattle can from a different manufacture.

Anyone, any ideas?
 
Quick update on painting: The Model Masters enamel is working well. I was able to brush it right over the pactra and fill in the areas where the pactra had crawled.
I really like the Bod Dively liquid mask works. I brushed on three coats and just like I have seen on all the videos: cut it lightly with a sharp exacto knife and peal it off.
 
I started to reinstall the body shields today. The large drive gear hits the inside of the cover. Just a little bit; enough to rub the paint off. The spot is on the inside rear and the spot is about a quarter inch square. Looks like I just need to get about 1/6" to 1/8" clearance. I'll look at it again tomorrow. I may need to redrill the plastic mounting holes.
 
I posted a thread on the Bodies/Painting section and think the problem on the paint was the thinner. Here I what I think happened:

I believe the thinner I used is not the right one for the pactra ACRYL paint.

I used the pactra lacquer thinner RC95. The label on the paint bottle says to use RC thinner #RC5800. When I use the lacquer thinner, the mix just did not look right to me: the color seemed to "swirl" not be a homogenous mix.

I did not have the RC5800 so I used my Sig paint thinner and the first coat looks good. I ran out of paint so I need to get another bottle.

Worked good through my airbrush. This is the first time I have used a dual action airbrush. I have used the old style where you put your finger over the bleed hole to spray.

Concerning the side guards fit. I adjusted the mounting holes on the guard to slip it back about 1/8" and it no longer hits the gear. I had to adjust them a little on the other side also. Adjust = use a small rat-tail file to lengthen them.
 
Your right, this is far from a kit. It is ready built. I'm wondering why it's not offered as a kit. Anyway....a few more pictures.

Installed right and left frame guards. The one on the right that covers the gears had to have the mounting holes opened so it could slide back about 1/8" to make sure one of the gears did not hit it. I cut the antenna tube to about 3.5" and slid it over the receiver antenna. Used some thick CA glue to glue it to the box.

I used a glue used to secure canopies to models so act as a thread lock on the wheel nuts. Used a socked to tighten them with my hand (no handle)

I need to run the engine and get a little better trottle/brake adjustment.
 

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Me likey (!!) the big bore shocks!!
Looking at the first photo, I was just wondering about the wheel nuts, before you went on to indicate the adhesive !!

Soon be finished, then you'll be making up for lost time !!!!!!!!!!!

Al.
 
Looks like the painting will be on hold a few days. I know of only one local shop that carries this paint and they are closed until tomorrow. I go back to work tomorrow (took a vacation day today). I'll get the paint tomorrow night and get it done soon.

In the mean time, I can adjust engine tune and drive around the block.
 
Finished for now:

I finally gave up trying to stuff everything in the one box. I bought a Traxxax receiver box and mounted it to the top of the existing box. Drilled a 1/2" hole between them and glued the boxes together with RTV. Used three small bolts and nuts to hold them together.

I drilled a 1/16" hole in the top of the Traxxax box and let the antenna poke straight up. I'll dab a little sealer on this later.

its tuff to get it all in there i got it all in plus the killer bee switch took a while
 
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