rixxer
Well-Known Member
whats the advantage and disadvantage of having metal pinion gears?
Metal pinion gears
- Thread starter rixxer
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atom3624
Well-Known Member
A very quick answer relates to what your Spur is made of.
If that's plastic, and the pinion metal - you'll wear out your spur, aligned or not.
Bottom line EVERYONE will say is the FIRST thing to change is the spur from plastic to metal. The heat from the clutch will destroy a plastic spur quite quickly they say. I bought my truck after '4 or 5 outings' and it had a plastic spur in good condition so jury's out a LITTLE. It's got a metal spur now.
Inertia with these weight differences - plastic and metal pinion weights - won't make much difference for these engines to spool up quickly - plenty of torque.
If you change the spur for metal, change the pinion also I'd guess.
If that's plastic, and the pinion metal - you'll wear out your spur, aligned or not.
Bottom line EVERYONE will say is the FIRST thing to change is the spur from plastic to metal. The heat from the clutch will destroy a plastic spur quite quickly they say. I bought my truck after '4 or 5 outings' and it had a plastic spur in good condition so jury's out a LITTLE. It's got a metal spur now.
Inertia with these weight differences - plastic and metal pinion weights - won't make much difference for these engines to spool up quickly - plenty of torque.
If you change the spur for metal, change the pinion also I'd guess.
+1 on what atom said.
Although i've always ran plastic all over, and they worked great for me with normal wear, i got some steel ones for my MCD.. They don't wear down as fast.
The only disappointment i had with them when i originally bought them, they didn't have many choices, and at $80+ a pair, i'll pass for now..
Chris
Although i've always ran plastic all over, and they worked great for me with normal wear, i got some steel ones for my MCD.. They don't wear down as fast.
The only disappointment i had with them when i originally bought them, they didn't have many choices, and at $80+ a pair, i'll pass for now..
Chris
rixxer
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #4
metal pinion gear
bare with me guys new to this im learning my way in but thx to you guys im getting there
.. right now it has metal pinion gear but has plastic spur gear ive only owned this truck not even a month and already went thru 4 plastic spur gears at $15 CAN it adds up quickly thats is why im thinking of upgrading to metal spur gear but the FG upgrade metal spur gear it doesn't have rubber damper on the carrier its solid is this gunna cause another drivetrain issue?
bare with me guys new to this im learning my way in but thx to you guys im getting there
.. right now it has metal pinion gear but has plastic spur gear ive only owned this truck not even a month and already went thru 4 plastic spur gears at $15 CAN it adds up quickly thats is why im thinking of upgrading to metal spur gear but the FG upgrade metal spur gear it doesn't have rubber damper on the carrier its solid is this gunna cause another drivetrain issue?
atom3624
Well-Known Member
It needs some of the experienced guys to answer this one. Which I'm not.
Basically, you need to understand why you've been through so many spurs anyway - are you jumping it a lot and landing on full throttle, or with the wheels braked static, giving a big speed differential on landing?
If you're just blasting up and down, wheelying but nothing too wild, like I do, then check the alignment of the gears - maybe the motor's twisted around, and the pinion's grinding the spur down.
Is the mesh too tight?
Is it even too loose? There should be some movement between them, but the meshing should be good - is there a guide on this for large scale anyone?
Alan.
Basically, you need to understand why you've been through so many spurs anyway - are you jumping it a lot and landing on full throttle, or with the wheels braked static, giving a big speed differential on landing?
If you're just blasting up and down, wheelying but nothing too wild, like I do, then check the alignment of the gears - maybe the motor's twisted around, and the pinion's grinding the spur down.
Is the mesh too tight?
Is it even too loose? There should be some movement between them, but the meshing should be good - is there a guide on this for large scale anyone?
Alan.
slawhammer
Well-Known Member
you can go with all metal gears....I would recommed a 19 tooth pinion
on the clutch bell..leave the spur gear plastic..48tooth...some place you need a weak
link in the drive train....or you maybe rippin internal gears in the rear diff.....
not sure of your gear mesh...Did the engine move at all?are the engine mount bolts tight?
Here's a TIP:clean both the engine mounts on the bottom..as well as the chassie pan
where the mount go....use double back sticky tape on the engine mounts...reset your engine in place and thighten the bolts or screws....If you use screws going in to a plastic engine mount..use super glue on the screw threads.....bolts into engine mounts use locktite.........THIS WILL KEEP THE ENGINE FROM MOVING.....Slawhammer
on the clutch bell..leave the spur gear plastic..48tooth...some place you need a weak
link in the drive train....or you maybe rippin internal gears in the rear diff.....
not sure of your gear mesh...Did the engine move at all?are the engine mount bolts tight?
Here's a TIP:clean both the engine mounts on the bottom..as well as the chassie pan
where the mount go....use double back sticky tape on the engine mounts...reset your engine in place and thighten the bolts or screws....If you use screws going in to a plastic engine mount..use super glue on the screw threads.....bolts into engine mounts use locktite.........THIS WILL KEEP THE ENGINE FROM MOVING.....Slawhammer
dwarfy
Well-Known Member
Slaw - should the gear ratio not add up to 64?? Will a 19T pinion not give too tight a mesh??
You cant use a 19 with a 48...impossible mesh! (unless your carrier is knackered)
J.
J.
rixxer
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #9
metal pinion gear
so far what ive changed to my truck is a set of alloy motor mounts and front brake kit other thus 2 upgrade its stock. the gearing i have set up 18 pinion 46 spur. the gearing mesh is ok not to loose not to tight but then again i could be wrong on this. the clutch bell carrier being plastic could contribute to my problem?
so far what ive changed to my truck is a set of alloy motor mounts and front brake kit other thus 2 upgrade its stock. the gearing i have set up 18 pinion 46 spur. the gearing mesh is ok not to loose not to tight but then again i could be wrong on this. the clutch bell carrier being plastic could contribute to my problem?
slawhammer
Well-Known Member
Opps..my bad there..non think..Fg is 64 total teeth..your correct..
I was thinking about the firehammer that is 48 teeth total....
I use both for gearing...FG & FHMT ..switch for different gearing......
you will want to go alloy gear plate at some point....(clutch bell)........
So for your Fg gearing..use any thing that will add up to 64 teeth total count...
...Slawhammer
I was thinking about the firehammer that is 48 teeth total....
I use both for gearing...FG & FHMT ..switch for different gearing......
you will want to go alloy gear plate at some point....(clutch bell)........
So for your Fg gearing..use any thing that will add up to 64 teeth total count...
...Slawhammer
rixxer
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #12
metal gear
weather looks great this weekend give it a try and hopefully everything stay intact no more chewing spur gear.. local hobby shop didnt have the alloy rear upper in stock i guess ill have to watch on my jumping. have a great weekend guys and happy bashing to all
weather looks great this weekend give it a try and hopefully everything stay intact no more chewing spur gear
.. local hobby shop didnt have the alloy rear upper in stock i guess ill have to watch on my jumping. have a great weekend guys and happy bashing to all
Once you upgrade your gears to alloy you will not have the issue with the upper arm taking out your plastic gear. You will need to check the upper a arm shaft and see where it hits your gear. It will have a small mark from the gear grinding it. Take a dremel and lightly grind a small amount off to make more room for the shaft to spur flex problem.
You will not be able to relive the flex problem until you buy lower alloy arms. Its the only way to relive most of the flex. The only way to eliminate the spur hitting problem is to buy rear alloy uprights and a arm risers.
The upper alloy a arms are a good upgrade because the flex will put stress on the plastic end where the shaft enters the plastic. This area is where the arm breaks. It is the reason it is recommended to replace.
I have run alloy gears from the beginning and love it. I have taken out a rear end but probably due to a landing on throttle.
The weak link in the FG drive train will always be the standard diff cup. If you land on throttle it will take out a diff cup. So, be careful not to land on throttle. Best thing you can think of is that you are in the truck, buggy and do what you would do if sitting in it. If you keep the gas peddle down when in the air - You may be a red neck! :laugh:
If your looking for a cheap upgrade here are a few:
Carrier: http://www.davesmotors.com/s.nl/c.885035/n.1/it.A/id.1615/.f, http://www.davesmotors.com/s.nl/c.885035/n.1/it.A/id.2880/.f
FG 48t Gear: http://cgi.ebay.com/FG-Steel-48T-Ge...Control_Parts_Accessories?hash=item3354f143f6
DTX FG compatible gear: http://cgi.ebay.com/Duratrax-Main-D...Control_Parts_Accessories?hash=item5ad4757386
You will not be able to relive the flex problem until you buy lower alloy arms. Its the only way to relive most of the flex. The only way to eliminate the spur hitting problem is to buy rear alloy uprights and a arm risers.
The upper alloy a arms are a good upgrade because the flex will put stress on the plastic end where the shaft enters the plastic. This area is where the arm breaks. It is the reason it is recommended to replace.
I have run alloy gears from the beginning and love it. I have taken out a rear end but probably due to a landing on throttle.
The weak link in the FG drive train will always be the standard diff cup. If you land on throttle it will take out a diff cup. So, be careful not to land on throttle. Best thing you can think of is that you are in the truck, buggy and do what you would do if sitting in it. If you keep the gas peddle down when in the air - You may be a red neck! :laugh:
If your looking for a cheap upgrade here are a few:
Carrier: http://www.davesmotors.com/s.nl/c.885035/n.1/it.A/id.1615/.f, http://www.davesmotors.com/s.nl/c.885035/n.1/it.A/id.2880/.f
FG 48t Gear: http://cgi.ebay.com/FG-Steel-48T-Ge...Control_Parts_Accessories?hash=item3354f143f6
DTX FG compatible gear: http://cgi.ebay.com/Duratrax-Main-D...Control_Parts_Accessories?hash=item5ad4757386
Last edited:
atom3624
Well-Known Member
If its still stripping the spur, I believe you need to locate the cause for this.
Changing to all metal will prolong life, possibly passing the stress somewhere else.
I don't understand if you are only performing 'speed passes' why its still stripping gears. :no:
Changing to all metal will prolong life, possibly passing the stress somewhere else.
I don't understand if you are only performing 'speed passes' why its still stripping gears. :no:
charlieboy
Well-Known Member
when you changed the motor mounts did you make sure they sat correctly? i changed mine once b4 and didn't check and my lay shaft sat cocked over slightly which made my spur gear run slightly cocked and made it run tight, i stripped a few gears b4 i realised what it was :blush::blush:
pipeous
Well-Known Member
Get Joe Selwa to have a look at it. He's a real veteran when it comes to FG's...
sometime a fresh look can see something missed. 2 guys were trying to get a heli going yesterday and were baffled. he came over to my place and I was checking wires and saw it had a blown fuse lol (one guy is an electronics technician, he taught me how to reverse servos on the pc board) brilliant dude but we all miss stuff
sometime a fresh look can see something missed. 2 guys were trying to get a heli going yesterday and were baffled. he came over to my place and I was checking wires and saw it had a blown fuse lol (one guy is an electronics technician, he taught me how to reverse servos on the pc board) brilliant dude but we all miss stuff
rixxer
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #20
metal gear
that was also my concern thats why i hold up the all metal gear conversion because it mite damage something else. ill definately have it check at my local hobby shop this weekend hopefully the can help me out. im frustrated not be able to enjoy this truck
that was also my concern thats why i hold up the all metal gear conversion because it mite damage something else. ill definately have it check at my local hobby shop this weekend hopefully the can help me out. im frustrated not be able to enjoy this truck