Mods b4 break-in?

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yup.. its just fine. but keep in mind that any motor changes will be followed by carb adjustments. sometimes its easer to run it out for a tank or 2 in stock condition, then put the pipe on. at that time you will be ready to lean it out any way as it will start to bog on the low end.. just so you only have to tune it once.. also i personelly like to see the diffrence that the pipe makes as it is like night and day, (depending on your pipe). as far as the air filter, the k&n's are always questionable. they arent all that good. ive seen them let stuff pass thru wich could be fatal for the mill. you may want to stuff part of the stock filter inside and lube it up really well. i run a python filter (also questionable) with a 3 stage filter element and i still have to be carefull..


as far as any other mods go i like to get the bugs out and see if there is something that i "need" before throwing the high dollor mods on.
 
Thanks, im new to the rc hobby about 3 months ago i bought a traxxas revo 3.3 and that was not a good move imo, so i started looking at 1/5 scale and bumped into your video on youtube ( the one when u broke the wheel) and was sold. Thanks kryptonite.
 
i currently have the side dom pipe, redcat tuned pipe, 8000 rpm clutch springs and a brand new tt. im dying to start her up but wanna do it right. My LHS does not touch 1/5 scale so im here getting a crash course. I attached the linkages by looking at pics here, so tuning scares me a lil. Im still waiting for 4pk i purchased on ebay so I now find my self talking to my self about this tt and picturing my tt on youtube!! I know pitiful aint it. Lol.
 
My first was a FG MB Pro quite a few years ago other's have come and gone but my FG is still one of my favorites. It is a bit of a learning curve but it is very satisfying.


K&N is ok for onroad, but for off road not a good thing. Buy yourself a HPI filter, or even a FG one is good.
 
Just watch out for the gears, they are weak as can be. Do all the other tricks on the first start up thread....
 
these motors don't really require a break in honestly...do all your 'prep work' thats been listed... don't lean it out for a tank or 2.. and you should be good...
 
Jersey El said:
i currently have the side dom pipe, redcat tuned pipe, 8000 rpm clutch springs and a brand new tt. im dying to start her up but wanna do it right. My LHS does not touch 1/5 scale so im here getting a crash course. I attached the linkages by looking at pics here, so tuning scares me a lil. Im still waiting for 4pk i purchased on ebay so I now find my self talking to my self about this tt and picturing my tt on youtube!! I know pitiful aint it. Lol.
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tuning is a breaze.. i tune maybe once or twice per year and its pretty basic.. the bigest thing for starters is just taking it easy so you get used to how it jumps. did you get the upgrade kit with the mcd gears? they work perfect for me and have yet to go thru any of them.. (the bindy gear syndrome will go away after the first 5minutes).. after you upgrade the diffs and stuff i think the next weak spot is the front stearing mount. mainly for jumping. fire that beast up!! its no nitro. break-in consists of running it ball-to-the-wall.. it will be kinda slugish at first but will open up after the first or second tank. if you have any questions about tuning just post it up. oh ya.. that redcat pipe is a disopointment. pretty cheap alumanum that will crack with just the heat.. the side dome is the way to go.
 
Yes, I purchased the upgrade kit, I figured ill start with the upgrades as parts start to break or I start tearing sections apart for upgrades. Should i swap the a b gears it is currently a - 29, b - 31?
 
Jersey El said:
Should i swap the a b gears it is currently a - 29, b - 31?
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i would run the stock a/b gear firts and see how you like it. when you put the side dom pipe on, you "can" swap them around (31/29).. but you get some low end lag, but it will scream at the top end.. i go back and forth depending on my bashing spot..


as far as replacing parts as needed..... thats a fine idea, but i think its really important to put the upgraded GEAR PLATE in before running. that is what will save your gears from melting. it has a larger bearing race that disopates the heat from the bearings. the stock plate also flexes couseing bad gear mesh under pressure.. also don't forget to center the drive shafts before you run. that will save the drive cups from binding and cracking.. i used ear plug foams..
 
badboy2 said:
get the killswitch better safe than sorry..
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good call.. here is the link. they only cost $19. im sure you know, but i will tell you anyway. that standard kill switch is useless for us. it only works if you battery dies, or you go out of range.. bro, your running a 2.4ghz.. your not going to run out of radio range. and im sure you can tell if your reciever pack is getting low.. its worth it.


http://www.largescalerc.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2314
 
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