Must have upgrades

No Moa

Well-Known Member
Messages
516
Location
Maine
My FG ST was full alloy, but i stripped it down ,and i'm putting it back to stock, looked good, but was aout 50 pounds.
 

MONAROMAN

Well-Known Member
Messages
485
Location
Sydney Australia
Tuned pipe
V Stack, Unifilter and Outerwears
Steel gears
Alloy gear carrier
A & B front alloy mounts
Alloy radio tray
Front cable brakes
Alloy engine mounts
Alloy diff upgrade
Elcon S/S diff cover
Daniels Pitstop rear alloy lower arms

Also have but not fitted yet - Elcon drivetrain
 

allanach

Well-Known Member
Messages
388
Location
Brisbane
Tuned pipe
V Stack, Unifilter and Outerwears
Steel gears
Alloy gear carrier
A & B front alloy mounts
Alloy radio tray
Front cable brakes
Alloy engine mounts
Alloy diff upgrade
Elcon S/S diff cover
Daniels Pitstop rear alloy lower arms

Also have but not fitted yet - Elcon drivetrain

You could go a set of alloy upper rear arms to stop them from flexing and ripping teeth from your spur.

FG Alloy diff blocks are great also, if you use the elcon drive train then most of the above stuff wont fit except the radio tray.

Note: always use loctite when screwing into alloy or bits will fall off.
 

Bigger the Better

LSF Plus Member
PLUS member
Messages
7,738
Location
Minnesota
You could go a set of alloy upper rear arms to stop them from flexing and ripping teeth from your spur.
In actuality the upper rear A arms have been replaced for years due to them being a weak point and snapping at the area the rod enters them. At some point someone started saying they stop flex in the rear and forgot the real reason. I too went under that assumption and bought a set for the flex problem. After investigating old postings and a little investigation myself I found that the plastic ones were weak and could snap at the rod entrance and did nothing for the flex of the rear.

Click here to watch Rear-arm-flex
If you look closely at the video you will see the grind spot in the arm rod from the gear.

The best way and only way to completely remove the chance the arm rod will touch your gear from the large tires twisting the plastic lower arm of a FGMT is to install alloy lower rear arms, alloy rear uprights, and the upper arm risers to lift the upper A arm rod out of the way completely. The problem is not even close to the MT problem in the buggies due to the tire size causing the twist.



The cheaper way is to get yourself a set of alloy gears and just run them and when the rod hits the large gear it will grind a grove into the rod and not damage the gear, this is what I did and have run it for years only marking a small grove in the rod and no damage to the gear.

Alloy front FGMT uprights are a good upgrade you will find that the screw (bolt) that holds the front arms to the upright will bend, loosen, and strip out constantly.
 
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