My 5th Scales
- Thread starter pipeous
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atom3624
Well-Known Member
Spur gears look a tad worn there!!
pipeous
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #105
I am making a scale heli fuse for the little blade mx but while waiting for the plaster to dry I decided to toss my F1 spoiler on the table and try. I should have broken it down to 3 pieces but wanted to see what it could do.
The table is made to use an external vaccuum like a house vac. the outlet is very small. and it has a hand pump to get that bit extra at the bottom (I was going to open that up and see if I could use my compressor) but I don't need it as you can see below. My shop vac hose, since I have a serious beast for detailing was way too big for the outlet. I had to take my carpet cleaner hose and stuff it inside the vac opening (thank god for the curved inlet inside or it'd have sucked the hose in) and I took off the clamp and went over the outlet on the table
The detail that this thing pulled off is amazing for my first attempt. I got a couple creases from there being too much angle, but if I do 3 pieces it won't happen. You can read the writing from the decals in the clear hehe.
So now I have extra F1 spoilers...
The table is made to use an external vaccuum like a house vac. the outlet is very small. and it has a hand pump to get that bit extra at the bottom (I was going to open that up and see if I could use my compressor) but I don't need it as you can see below. My shop vac hose, since I have a serious beast for detailing was way too big for the outlet. I had to take my carpet cleaner hose and stuff it inside the vac opening (thank god for the curved inlet inside or it'd have sucked the hose in) and I took off the clamp and went over the outlet on the table
The detail that this thing pulled off is amazing for my first attempt. I got a couple creases from there being too much angle, but if I do 3 pieces it won't happen. You can read the writing from the decals in the clear hehe.
So now I have extra F1 spoilers...
KrashKrieg
Well-Known Member
That's really cool...how much does something like that cost?
pipeous
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #107
When he bought it, he paid $700 for the vac former, but I just have to trade him an rc for it. Which is good because it gets another person out running with us. and we'll get some cad done and start making parts, so I'll build an aluminum version of it later 
it's not that complicated to build but the tray and stuff is nice. it's basically an oven element in the top. the base is just an opening and the screen is very thick and raised off the wood slightly. that allows suction all over. I never had to use the hand pump, my shop vac is more than strong enough. I just have to find the eact amount of droop in the plastic to keep from getting the little bubbles and how close to the element. I'll do a video sometime to show how it's done
This is what is left over. It comes with protective film on both sides. I just take the film of on the inside
This is the part the spoiler mounts to (am going to try making that part too as I have a spare)
and here it is mounted. I used some black fabric dye (too late to fire the compressor up in a condo) with some decals
it's not that complicated to build but the tray and stuff is nice. it's basically an oven element in the top. the base is just an opening and the screen is very thick and raised off the wood slightly. that allows suction all over. I never had to use the hand pump, my shop vac is more than strong enough. I just have to find the eact amount of droop in the plastic to keep from getting the little bubbles and how close to the element. I'll do a video sometime to show how it's done
This is what is left over. It comes with protective film on both sides. I just take the film of on the inside
This is the part the spoiler mounts to (am going to try making that part too as I have a spare)
and here it is mounted. I used some black fabric dye (too late to fire the compressor up in a condo) with some decals
pipeous
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #108
well since I couldn't fit the mercedes on the redcat I went looking for a chassis. I got home from the band's jam session last night and sharkey had sent me an ebay link... so I clicked the buy it now button right away. these med wb chassis are hard to find. I've been looking for a long while. thanks for the link dude. now I just need to buy most everything that goes onto it lol... it should be a fun project. at worst I can strip down the semi and put on this chassis. I can also make some parts on the cnc.. I got contracted for min 36 vehicles and up to 61 to detail starting tuesday so that funds my cnc project nicely. http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200541286520&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
I haven't played with the vac former for a few days. my shop vac is at the dealership and had some other projects on the go. the band is playing a fund raiser dec 11th so we have to practice a bit more and get some tunes tight.
I haven't played with the vac former for a few days. my shop vac is at the dealership and had some other projects on the go. the band is playing a fund raiser dec 11th so we have to practice a bit more and get some tunes tight.
pipeous
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #109
I am picking up a lap counting system for our club on tuesday. http://www.trackmateracing.com/shop...ader/arrow_red2.gif"++border="0">Lap+Counters
the system with software, 10 transponders, cables and lane sensors (enough to do a 20 foot wide lane). Not a bad setup for about $700
the system with software, 10 transponders, cables and lane sensors (enough to do a 20 foot wide lane). Not a bad setup for about $700
Sharkey
Well-Known Member
no problem barry, ive got some stock parts you may be able to use.
pipeous
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #112
Well parts arrived for the semi and I had it mostly stripped allready so here we go...
I allready put a new ring in the Solo. I put a new spur gear on and changed the brake to the '97 metal upgrade set. the center was wearing out on the epoxy disc. you can see there are different pads used on each type as well as the disc being different. the right disc is actually yellow, just a little rubbed from the brake pads and partially the light (taking pics on a white background).
Second pic is the motor and such mounted back to the chassis.
Third pic shows the new Nutech upgrade dif outdrives. These are supposed to be a harder material. Odd they cut some of the side out. I hope this doesn't weaken the metal at all. I guess we'll see
I allready put a new ring in the Solo. I put a new spur gear on and changed the brake to the '97 metal upgrade set. the center was wearing out on the epoxy disc. you can see there are different pads used on each type as well as the disc being different. the right disc is actually yellow, just a little rubbed from the brake pads and partially the light (taking pics on a white background).
Second pic is the motor and such mounted back to the chassis.
Third pic shows the new Nutech upgrade dif outdrives. These are supposed to be a harder material. Odd they cut some of the side out. I hope this doesn't weaken the metal at all. I guess we'll see
atom3624
Well-Known Member
I noticed the cutouts in the outdrive cups.
I suppose if this doesn't work, you can consider ball drives.
Al.
I suppose if this doesn't work, you can consider ball drives.
Al.
pipeous
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #114
ya isn't that odd? the worst place you could cut one out was what I had though. exactly where it wears.... time will tell though.
Ok here we go. The back end is basically done now. I swapped back to plastic ends on the arms. Because of how tight I have to run the turnbuckles on the lower arms, there is now way to get a jam nut on there. I have tried different methods and the end result is always they come loose. I will either go aluminum arm with plastic end, or plastic arm with aluminum end from now on. I have lots of plastic ends to work with anyway. and the ones I took off will go on one of the others. maybe the fg baja. I did the vw this way too and you can adjust the t buckles after for setup without fear of them coming loose. I'll still keep the upper arm rod end alloy as I can put a jam nut on those.
Ok here we go. The back end is basically done now. I swapped back to plastic ends on the arms. Because of how tight I have to run the turnbuckles on the lower arms, there is now way to get a jam nut on there. I have tried different methods and the end result is always they come loose. I will either go aluminum arm with plastic end, or plastic arm with aluminum end from now on. I have lots of plastic ends to work with anyway. and the ones I took off will go on one of the others. maybe the fg baja. I did the vw this way too and you can adjust the t buckles after for setup without fear of them coming loose. I'll still keep the upper arm rod end alloy as I can put a jam nut on those.
pipeous
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #115
Ok I am the first to complain when I see something that sucks, but this post is about giving Nutech some props.
On the upper arms you can see it has bushing inserts. on the shock tower and dif mount there is a spot for setscrews to hold the hinge pin from spinning inside the parts without bushings. In the 3rd pic I put a couple screws in the setscrew holes (have to dig up some setscrews, I know I have some somewhere). This will save a lot of wear where you don't want it. bushings are easy to replace or fab up.
I got the back end finished aside from the shocks and cleaned the table off for morning. I'll finish the truck tomorrow night. I have a job showing up here in a few hours so it's sleep time. it's got some mold from sitting, so I'll pop the ozone machine in for an hour and drink coffee then go clean it hehe.
On the upper arms you can see it has bushing inserts. on the shock tower and dif mount there is a spot for setscrews to hold the hinge pin from spinning inside the parts without bushings. In the 3rd pic I put a couple screws in the setscrew holes (have to dig up some setscrews, I know I have some somewhere). This will save a lot of wear where you don't want it. bushings are easy to replace or fab up.
I got the back end finished aside from the shocks and cleaned the table off for morning. I'll finish the truck tomorrow night. I have a job showing up here in a few hours so it's sleep time. it's got some mold from sitting, so I'll pop the ozone machine in for an hour and drink coffee then go clean it hehe.
Hey, those drive cups still had a good side to them. :laugh:
pipeous
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #117
and I am building another dif to use with them flipped haha. I seen your threads btb, I haven't lost all memory... but the semi gets all the good stuff, the other crap gets hand me downs.... they'd be fine in a vehicle with rear disc brakes, then it wouldn't matter about the gouge
pipeous
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #118
I thought I'd put a last post on here before going to sleep...
I forgot to mention setup. I was going to put 50k back in the dif but I was running low... I had 30k as well, so I mixed 35k for the dif (used up the rest of the 50k). The lot we run is a bit rough so this will be fine. it lets you corner fast. diffing out is never really an issue but if it does happen it's actually not a bad thing. you might lose some forward momentum but at least you don't get squirrely.
The shocks are stock Nutech shock and piston from the GT5R with 30wt Losi Oil. I get these mondo huge packs of Losi oil and it's much cheaper that way. You just have to get used to the brand. 30wt is Losi's number and different in cps rating from say Associated or Mugen oil... The springs are Yellow FG Progressive rate springs. A little softer initially under compression but gradually increases. Brilliant.
I also took a pic to show what I mean about modding the spring retainer. You want the slot wide enough to just slide over the shock shaft then slide down and on top of the shock end to hold the spring. This will save you so much grief of them coming loose. Stock you have to screw the end on after you put the spring retainer on as the retainer only fits from the bottom and stops at the wider part of the shaft (unthreaded) you can see this in the shock without a spring. there is a small space. That space is not as wide as the spring retainer thickness, so it stops and sandwiches the spring retainer. this will spin... I mean a spring even looks like one of those spinning barber poles. Just because of design it will rotate, which loosens the shock end, then it eventually unscrews completely.
I forgot to mention setup. I was going to put 50k back in the dif but I was running low... I had 30k as well, so I mixed 35k for the dif (used up the rest of the 50k). The lot we run is a bit rough so this will be fine. it lets you corner fast. diffing out is never really an issue but if it does happen it's actually not a bad thing. you might lose some forward momentum but at least you don't get squirrely.
The shocks are stock Nutech shock and piston from the GT5R with 30wt Losi Oil. I get these mondo huge packs of Losi oil and it's much cheaper that way. You just have to get used to the brand. 30wt is Losi's number and different in cps rating from say Associated or Mugen oil... The springs are Yellow FG Progressive rate springs. A little softer initially under compression but gradually increases. Brilliant.
I also took a pic to show what I mean about modding the spring retainer. You want the slot wide enough to just slide over the shock shaft then slide down and on top of the shock end to hold the spring. This will save you so much grief of them coming loose. Stock you have to screw the end on after you put the spring retainer on as the retainer only fits from the bottom and stops at the wider part of the shaft (unthreaded) you can see this in the shock without a spring. there is a small space. That space is not as wide as the spring retainer thickness, so it stops and sandwiches the spring retainer. this will spin... I mean a spring even looks like one of those spinning barber poles. Just because of design it will rotate, which loosens the shock end, then it eventually unscrews completely.
pipeous
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #120
Well in case you guys hadn't heard, I just did an rc house cleaning. Sold my VW, F1, 4wd Baja and the TB2. All the proceeds are going to a good cause. I bought a motorcycle to ride. I can't wait to get it home. Just making arrangements for a ride out to get the bike. 2008 Yamaha V Star 1100. It's the Canadian Classic Edition. Under 1800 km on it.
The bike came in on trade at the dealership and I had to have it so liquidated some stuff.
Still have the semi and a GT5R is enroute... I have my rc bike too and the mercedes clk body and chassis (that's what the gt5r is for)
The bike came in on trade at the dealership and I had to have it so liquidated some stuff.
Still have the semi and a GT5R is enroute... I have my rc bike too and the mercedes clk body and chassis (that's what the gt5r is for)