talunceford
Senior Member
You might change the plug if you haven't already.Chimera said:
my chimera won't start.........just replaced gears....
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- Thread starter
- #43
talunceford said:
Guys,RampageHopUps said:
so i've done alot of combinations and still no luck.
ps. the 15 dollar pull start i mentioned failed on me...so i went and bought a legit HPI part and it's so much better! lol you get what you pay for.
Anyway, the only other thing i could think of was to replace the gas/oil mixture. The mixture is from 1 year ago and i thought maybe the quality is bad. So, i'll be making a fresh batch today and trying it again. It's so weird because i have spark, everything looks to be in working order, no burst pipes, the exhaust is nice and tight, filter is brand new and clean.....
it must be the fuel.......
anyways, if you have any other ideas, please let me know.
talunceford
Senior Member
You might check your coil gap. You will have to take the cover off the case, loosen up the screws for the coil, place a business card in between the coil and the flywheel, rotate the flywheel until the magnet on the flywheel sucks the coil down to the flywheel. Tighten the screws, and remove the card. The gap might be too great in between the coil and the flywheel. Try that, some times that helps as well.Chimera said:
Phill2
Well-Known Member
Try the card before you loosen anything.talunceford said:
If the gap is OK you'll save yourself work loosening and retightening it all.
- Thread starter
- #46
Ok....so good news.....The fuel wasn't the issue....i made a fresh batch, but no luck. I then did what talunceford recommended and replaced the spark plug.....best 3 bucks i ever spent. lol
It started right up on the first pull!
i was so excited that i started playing with it right away. i did about 5 minutes before it died (but what a 5 minutes it was! lol)
I think i have to get the air/fuel ratio down. I think it was flooded. i set the high and the low at 1.5 and 1.25 respectively and the large screw at the bottom (forget what it's called) turned to the right to the point that the engine ran smoothly and sounded good.
here's the weird thing....when i turned the screw i just mentioned too far to the right, the wheels would start turning without me giving it any gas. to the point that the car would pick up speed very very quickly (and i think this contributed to my crash last year). anyway, the car was off the ground as i was doing the adjustments/testing, so no harm done. i dialed it to the left until the wheels stopped turning/starting on their own. is this normal though?
i wasn't able to get it started once it stopped and i just assumed that it was flooded. it was late in the day so i just let it go, until tomorrow.
Any ideas?
thank you for helping me figure it out! now i'm motivated to get it really going!
It started right up on the first pull!
i was so excited that i started playing with it right away. i did about 5 minutes before it died (but what a 5 minutes it was! lol)
I think i have to get the air/fuel ratio down. I think it was flooded. i set the high and the low at 1.5 and 1.25 respectively and the large screw at the bottom (forget what it's called) turned to the right to the point that the engine ran smoothly and sounded good.
here's the weird thing....when i turned the screw i just mentioned too far to the right, the wheels would start turning without me giving it any gas. to the point that the car would pick up speed very very quickly (and i think this contributed to my crash last year). anyway, the car was off the ground as i was doing the adjustments/testing, so no harm done. i dialed it to the left until the wheels stopped turning/starting on their own. is this normal though?
i wasn't able to get it started once it stopped and i just assumed that it was flooded. it was late in the day so i just let it go, until tomorrow.
Any ideas?
thank you for helping me figure it out! now i'm motivated to get it really going!
Phill2
Well-Known Member
The wheels started to turn because you had the engine revving too high and the clutch was starting to engage .Chimera said:
You did the right thing by turning it down.
Now you need to lean the low speed needle by turning it clockwise in very small increments until you get the right mixture.
As you lean it off the revs will increase and you may have to back the idle screw out some more.
When you have max revs by adjusting the screw back it out counter clockwise about 1 / 16th turn so it isn't too lean.
Someone on here should be able to link you to a tuning vid
- Thread starter
- #48
Thank you. Makes sense. i'll do that tomorrow.Phill said:
one other thing....i've been a bit paranoid after my crash last year....the car got away from me because i accidentally switched the top right button at the top of the controller to the right, and the car went insane and i couldn't stop it. ever since then, i've been paranoid about the car losing control and getting disconnected.
just today, after i got the car going, my throttle wouldn't work! wheels would move via the controller but not the throttle! i hit the servo in the head a couple of times and it started working. happend a couple of times, but afterwards, i had no issues. i'm thinking that i may need a new servo and also perhaps a fail switch (I can't find the one that came with the car...F!)
Phill2
Well-Known Member
I'd be replacing the servo and installing a remote kill switch.Chimera said:
Without a kill switch these things are dangerous and could kill a kid if they got away.
http://www.davesmotors.com/**********-Super-Bee-Failsafe-Kill-Switch-Combo.html
talunceford
Senior Member
The reason it sped up is because the engine is being leaned out. Be VERY careful with that. I'd keep it at the 1 1/4 turns for the low and use the idle screw to adjust your idle speed. You don't want to lean the engine to the point of where it runs too hot because of lack of oil.Chimera said:
talunceford
Senior Member
Also your low speed screw only affects idle to 1/3 throttle after that the high speed jet (screw) takes over. Your high speed screw should be the one that all of your wot adjustments are made on. Remember this, more fuel is ALWAYS better than not enough. Increase your high speed fuel ratio (left turns) to the point of where your engine sounds like it is losing rpms on wot runs. Small increments 1/16 of a turn max per tweak. One you get to that point back it off 1/8 of a turn. You will have the best possible tune. Lean conditions are never good for these motors.Chimera said:
- Thread starter
- #53
talunceford said:
Thanks guys.Ice_2k said:
so, today, i tried to start it and it started right up with no issues on the first pull. Right now it's running very well and sounds great....but based on the info above, i'll redo the adjustment. I'll turn the Low to 1 1/4 and just leave it there. then i'll turn the High to 1 1/2 and turn right ever so slightly at a time, until it sounds like it's going to stall, then turn it back 1/8th. As far as the idle screw, i will close it completely, then open 2 turns and leave it there and just do my adjustments using the High as suggested. (right?)
Also, i found the fail safe switch and i 'think' i installed it correctly. but my servo is acting up, so i wasn't able to 'set' it. Any recommendations for a reasonably priced servo? (link?) (keep in mind the cost of the car itself. i don't want to overspend on the servo)
The $29 option here maybe? http://www.redcatracing.com/Search#cv=RAMPAGE CHIMERA SR#kw=servo
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talunceford
Senior Member
Here is the video that I use for reference. Mind you the needle settings that Dan talks about are for a WT990, which really doesn't matter much, but he gives you some VERY good insight on what to listen for and how to adjust things. One last thing too. Some times you will need to adjust the low speed needle a bit as well. Please don't think that I was trying to tell you that you shouldn't, I was just explaining that the low speed needle only affects a very small part of the throttle range and that most of your tuning should be done on the high speed needle. Most of it is done with ear, and there isn't any set number except for the starting points on your carb. Start there and work your way back. Remember, the low speed needle, basically helps you keep your idle consistent. Your idle screw controls your idle speed.Chimera said:
Here is the video:
Ice_2k
Well-Known Member
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my chimera won't start.........just replaced gears....
LSN: richen it a little bit and then start doing WOT launches. Lean it more and more until the launch is no longer improving, then go back about 1/16.
HSN: richen it and start doing high speed passes. As you lean it more and more (1/16 at a time) you'll be getting higher top rpm. Once you find the setting for max rpm, go back 1/16.
LSN: recheck the LSN tuning, as the HSN you just changed is also affecting the launches.
Loosen the idle screw as much as you can without getting a rough idle. Be careful because setting the idle too low on a hot engine can make it harder to start when cold (i have a "idle up" function on my remote that i use when starting the engine cold)
Servo: I use this one, verry happy with it: http://www.davesmotors.com/hitec-hs-5645mg-35645s-digital-throttle-servo-metal-gears.html
I think you've got your screws a little... well, screwed up haha. The high screw will never cause your car to stall. How I do it:Chimera said:
LSN: richen it a little bit and then start doing WOT launches. Lean it more and more until the launch is no longer improving, then go back about 1/16.
HSN: richen it and start doing high speed passes. As you lean it more and more (1/16 at a time) you'll be getting higher top rpm. Once you find the setting for max rpm, go back 1/16.
LSN: recheck the LSN tuning, as the HSN you just changed is also affecting the launches.
Loosen the idle screw as much as you can without getting a rough idle. Be careful because setting the idle too low on a hot engine can make it harder to start when cold (i have a "idle up" function on my remote that i use when starting the engine cold)
Servo: I use this one, verry happy with it: http://www.davesmotors.com/hitec-hs-5645mg-35645s-digital-throttle-servo-metal-gears.html
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talunceford
Senior Member
Don't you mean leaner? That is what I was talking about. Back it off an 1/8 of a turn "a pinch" to lean it back out.Ice_2k said:
talunceford
Senior Member
I think we are talking about the same steps lol.
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- #59
Yeah, it's very much possible that i've got things backwards in my head. haha thanks for being patienttalunceford said:
i searched for the servo you mentioned on Amazon and came up with 3 or 4. which one is the one you have?
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=Hitec+HS-5645MG&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3AHitec+HS-5645MG
oh, looking at it a second time, i think it's the 32 dollar option on the link above. please confirm. and how does that compare to the one i posted before? (below)
http://www.redcatracing.com/Search#cv=RAMPAGE CHIMERA SR#kw=servo