My FG; Hydr. brakes and Nomadio Sensor.

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Alekoy

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Hello.
Just wanted to brag a littlebit about my FG-beetle.
currently I'm performing some upgrades, I bought the car about a month ago, the car used to belong to a friend of mine, and.. well.... he isn't the greatest mechanic in the world...
he had fixed the rear upper arm with cable-ties, and ALOT of other "MacGyver"- fixes...

SO, I decided to tear most of the car down and start from the bottom...
I needed new rear arms, diff/rear axle mount, gearbox/plate, and the mechanical front disc brakes were kind of poo... and lucky me, a seller on Ebay had all the parts I needed. AND Hydraulic brakes for front and back. so i bought the lot.

And I have wanted a "Nomadio Sensor" system since they started making them, so I just had to buy that to.
and if you know about the "Sensor" it has 4 channels, so I decided to use all 4 of them.

1 micro-servo directly mounted on the carb like this:
throt0.jpg

Here shown with the throtle at idle.

throt1.jpg

Here shown with the throtle wide open.

I think I will modify this, so that the servo control the throtle AND can operate the stop-button...

Also i mounted the brakes today, and I did not really like the way they were supposed to be mounted, so I made something myself.
hydr.jpg

I made a litle plate that I bolted the hydraulic-things to, and hooked them up to the servos, one for the for the rear and one for the front, tested and adjusted the servos and I'm very pleased about how it turned out.
In the picture the right servo operates the front brakes, and the servo is pulling the brakes in the pic.

I decided to NOT take pictures of the rest, as I want something to show you tomorrow to. :)
 
Last edited:
I love the throttle servo idea.
But when it is idling and you apply the brakes, it will apply force on the carb & linkages that may damage something. Probably the servo.
Just a thought.
 
Yes that would be a problem, if I had a normal radio.
But the Nomadio-system that I am using has so many possible settings, that I just sat up a limit for the servo, so now the throttle servo ONLY handles the "throttle-side" of the remote, and the two brake servos does the oposite, and it is possible to adjust brake balance, ABS and brake-mix induvidually on front/rear brakes.
the brake-mix is actually kind of smart, it reduces the breaking-power when you steer, so you don't lock the wheels and loose control...
 
DAMN!
I dropped the engine whilst trying to mount it in the car, a fall of about 5cm was enugh to wreck the insides of the servo...
well, another modification is needed..
 
Well, got everything working and went for a test run and everything works good, think there are some leaks and air in the brake lines, as they were great, but ended up useless after about 10 min. so have to fix that tomorrow..
the new throttle-servo-construction ended up kind of german, over-enginered, complicated and somehow working..
I'll take some pics later on, the camera was out of power.. now only if that could run on pump-gas with added two-stroke oil, that would definately be something...
 
Well, got everything working and went for a test run and everything works good, think there are some leaks and air in the brake lines, as they were great, but ended up useless after about 10 min. so have to fix that tomorrow..
the new throttle-servo-construction ended up kind of german, over-enginered, complicated and somehow working..
I'll take some pics later on, the camera was out of power.. now only if that could run on pump-gas with added two-stroke oil, that would definately be something...
i see your running the old version of hydr brakes , i hear the bleeders are a pain and tend to leak a lot causing air inline issues .
even the new version can have leaking issues [ kinda why everyone go`s to the aftermarket bleeder setup ] i went straight to the aftermarket bleeders before any issues came about .
 
i see your running the old version of hydr brakes , i hear the bleeders are a pain and tend to leak a lot causing air inline issues .
even the new version can have leaking issues [ kinda why everyone go`s to the aftermarket bleeder setup ] i went straight to the aftermarket bleeders before any issues came about .

Well.
I have to remake the throttle system, as the overengineered construction i run now is.. well way to german.. it works, but it's a bit ustable, but no biggie.
and the brakes.. I have located the problem to the V-ring or what ever you want to call the rubber seal-thing on the piston inside the pump-part, as I bought the brakes used on Ebay, they are kind of old, and the rubber has gotten a little hard and won't hold the pressure...
so I have to get new rubber-things, or complete pumps.. I see that there is a new design now, maby they work better.

If ANYONE has a tip where i can get the parts for the Magura brakes..

sorry about the pics Shiny, but I drive faster than I take pictures :P
 
Well.
I have to remake the throttle system, as the overengineered construction i run now is.. well way to german.. it works, but it's a bit ustable, but no biggie.
and the brakes.. I have located the problem to the V-ring or what ever you want to call the rubber seal-thing on the piston inside the pump-part, as I bought the brakes used on Ebay, they are kind of old, and the rubber has gotten a little hard and won't hold the pressure...
so I have to get new rubber-things, or complete pumps.. I see that there is a new design now, maby they work better.

If ANYONE has a tip where i can get the parts for the Magura brakes..

sorry about the pics Shiny, but I drive faster than I take pictures :P

u can buy parts from > http://www.rc-car-online-shop.de/ls...zteile_bremsen_hyd.ersatzteile_magura,,,,.htm

i have brought a fair bit of parts there in the past , and i have no dout in the future....
 
Well.
I have to remake the throttle system, as the overengineered construction i run now is.. well way to german.. it works, but it's a bit ustable, but no biggie.
and the brakes.. I have located the problem to the V-ring or what ever you want to call the rubber seal-thing on the piston inside the pump-part, as I bought the brakes used on Ebay, they are kind of old, and the rubber has gotten a little hard and won't hold the pressure...
so I have to get new rubber-things, or complete pumps.. I see that there is a new design now, maby they work better.

If ANYONE has a tip where i can get the parts for the Magura brakes..

sorry about the pics Shiny, but I drive faster than I take pictures :P

Oh will. As lone that you are enjoying bashing your FG.
 
Soooo.. long time since this..
my beetle has been standing in my hobbyroom awaiting to be finished, and last weekend I finished it, so now I'v made a new throttle-linkage, changed all the brake lines, brake fluid and the pistons inside the pumps, bled the lines and tested them on my bench and they were good. so on sunday I went for a drive and after setting a nice idle-setting on my radio, I have removed the idle-screw from my carb and set the idle on the transmitter, this way the failsafe stop the engine as the failsafe is lower than the idle.
so when that was done I got the car going and tried the brakes, no response at all.
so what i'm wondering about is; what can the problem with the brakes be, only thing left form last time is the brake pads, maybe try to change them too.
maybe the speed of my brake servos are to fast, I think I can adjust the servo speed on my remote.

anyways, I will take a picture of the new trottle linkage later, I have to remove the silencer to get a decent pic.
 
i know with the magura v2 brakes u need to pump the master cylinder atleast 25 times for the volume control to work propply[ when bleeding the system] other wise the brakes will only work randomly .
 
Ok, thanks for the input.
I have to work a little on my real project car, a 1967 Chevelle SS, but if there is any time left of the day, I will try to change the pads and bleed the brakes even more..

and maybe take a pic or three of the throttle-linkage.. :)
 
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