My First E-Dune Runner

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mulepic said:
Hmmm, mine didn't come w/ a set screw set up. But there is a groove for an o-ring. Again, they didn't come w/ an o-ring. A snap ring would work best I think.
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Hmmm, I believe you got those from RCDad....He actually didn't realize there is a set screw down the shaft as well...take a look again put a 2.5mm down the axle shaft, there should be one or at least threads to add one if production forgot to add them...
 
I found the set screw in the axles. I'm missing one but none of them were tightened against the hex pin. Thanks for the help guys!

The set screw is 5mm that can be had at your local home depot.
 
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More Pulleys and Belts

I put in an order for more pulleys and belts. I'm going to try and come up w/ an easy way to do this conversion to make it more accessible to everyone. I also want to try to find ideal pulley sizes and belts. Right now I'm running 14/24 w/ a 265mm belt. The largest D-pulley I can fit is 24T otherwise you start running it into the black plastic guard. The 14T A-pulley is about as small as we can go. So I ordered a 15t, 16t, 18t, and 20t A-pulley. I also ordered 280, 285 mm belt. I already have 295 and 310. The 256mm belt I already have is the smallest we can go.

If I was running the gas motor I'd go w/ the lower gearing of 14/24t and a higher rmp clutch spring. I"m positive that setup would give good low end acceleration.
 
Glad you go the axles sorted out...

Thanks for that size and gear breakdown.

My Gas Motor and CPI pipe give me plenty of low end....so what do you think is the way to go for more top end?...
 
The belt conversion kit available today is 1:1 so if you think the motor can push it that would be about the highest. For me it's about drive-ability on the track. Extreme top speeds are not as useful as quick spool-up to get through the infield and control my flight over the jumps. I probably run one of the slowest (top end wise) cars at the track but it does really well in/out of the turns.
 
Thanks Mulepic!

I already run the kit available now at 1:1

Standard MT gearing is a 1.4 ratio (35/25)

Standard TT gearing is a 1.06 ratio (31/29)

some guys have switched the TT gears for a .935 ratio (29/31)

I really thought there would be a little room for more top end with lets say a .82 ratio (what I want to try)

I don't have an super engine, but it does have a ported head and it's stuffed w/ 2mm stroke.

when I run the 1:1, it really seems like with different gears I could go a little faster.
 
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mulepic said:
I found the set screw in the axles. I'm missing one but none of them were tightened against the hex pin. Thanks for the help guys!The set screw is 5mm that can be had at your local home depot.
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Anytime! Glad you got it sorted!
 
That's the downside of RTR's, you don't know how it's all put together. And I was baffled b/c the pins just came out and since the wheel hex holds it in I didn't think about a set screw. Of course the groove in the 24mm hexes totally threw me off too.

Right now I'm tightening and using thread lock all over. I really think this thing is built well. It's too bad red cat has a bad rap. I think this thing will give me far less problems than what I see the losi guys going through. The 5ive 'what do I need to get started' thread is pretty much a replacement car w/ all after market parts. Granted this is 2nd or 3rd revision of the DR but at least they eventually get it right. Losi simply re-sells you the parts that should have been in the kit in the first place.

Maybe after more run time I'll change my tune but as of now my initial impression of this thing is pretty good.
 
I just got a shipment notice that the new pulleys and belts will show up on Wednesday. The goal is to come up w/ a minimal modification for a belt conversion. I like the belt drive b/c it frees up the drivetrain and there are more gearing options.

I'm still going w/ the 2 pulley no-idler approach b/c it hasn't given me any issues and it makes removing the belt extremely easy. As of now I can think of a way if you have the two pins (pictured earlier) then w/ hand tools anyone could modify the pulleys of their choice. Then it's just a matter of purchasing the pulleys and belt. I should be able to provide the belt lengths for most gearing options.
 
krashkrieg said:
Hi Mule Thanks for all your work and research.Any chance you can give me some insight into my post #425?
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Are you thinking about using a larger A-pulley to run a higher gear ratio? Does the place I get my pulleys from have a larger pulley?

I'm going in the opposite direction w/ lower gearing to improve runtime, temperatures, and track handling.
 
Yes, I am looking for a little more top end. They have larger pulleys.

I'm thinking of trying a 26 / 22 setup giving me a .846 ratio
 
Pulleys and belts just came in. There should be enough there to come up with something good. But before I get started I'm taking it to the track this weekend. The charging from the car battery should work out fine and I expect to get about 60 mins of run time unless of course something breaks sooner. But the car has been pretty solid.

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The e-DR did pretty well this morning. I had a great time too. It's an awesome group and a completely different track experience from 1/10.

After the first 15 minutes I shredded the belt. It was my fault, I was attempting to flip a losi over and I should have known better. B/c I don't have a front bumper the front tires were locked down w/ the losi on top of them. When the clutch kicked in at 8k the belt just snapped. I thought I brought my spare but I forgot it so I had to put the gears back in.

After the gears I ran for another 12 mins w/ the rest of the trucks and had a blast. The DR can definitely hold its own. Then I had to charger the batteries. The harbor freight inverter worked great w/ my bulk charging method and I charged the batteries in under 30 mins. I did w/ the car running. I don't think there would be any chance of a car battery keeping up w/ the inverter/charger in that setup.

The 2nd round I saved my batteries to run w/ the group. It's just so much fun running w/ a group of losi's. The DR can definitely keep up b/c it's just so easy to drive. But I should have known I was about to break. I kept landing really hard on my front left wheel on-throttle while at that apex of a 180. Well one time someone got under me and I came down really on on that wheel and broke a rod end and front left suspension arm. My day was over but I went home w/ a huge smile.

There will be improvements made the suspension arms and the belt drive will be attempted again for sure. Stay tuned.
 
It was a blast!! The more the merrier. Question for you, is 50004N the front arms for the DR?
 
Yep for the newest DR. The N is for new. They have the location for the droop adjustment screws.
 
Thanks, are there any rod ends? Or do I just buy the steering links 50049 and have some spare links, balls, and ends?
 
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