My First E-Dune Runner

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Deluge said:
Pitch info...http://www.redcatrampageforum.com/showthread.php?t=6337&page=4
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That thread dies out w/ inquires regarding 'aluminum C's'. What is/was that? Were they ever made/seen? Is this an area prone to breakage?

I'm starting to consider a way to stiffen up the control arms. I like the flex to prevent breakage but it seems a little excessive and hurting performance.
 
Well I found some aluminum and couldn't help myself. I remade the suspension arm strengtheners out of if.

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So something I noticed while putting the front suspension arms back on. The chassis doesn't bottom out before the shocks. It's like the shock tower is too short. This creates all sorts of pressure on the shock shafts, mounts, and tower. Anyone else notice this? I think I'm going to remake them so I can get the full travel out of the shocks and suspension. I definitely want the chassis to be able to bottom out.
 
While I wait to see if a set of 5ive shocks will fit I decided to simply drill extra holes in the front shock mount. The top shock mounts for the front now are a little higher and inside of the stock mounts. This allows the chassis to bottom out before the shocks. This prevents bending shock shafts and ends. It also softened up the front a bit. I now no longer have the hight adjustment collars set all the way to the top.
 
mulepic said:
So something I noticed while putting the front suspension arms back on. The chassis doesn't bottom out before the shocks. It's like the shock tower is too short. This creates all sorts of pressure on the shock shafts, mounts, and tower. Anyone else notice this? I think I'm going to remake them so I can get the full travel out of the shocks and suspension. I definitely want the chassis to be able to bottom out.
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Is this with the factory wheels?
 
RCDAD said:
Is this with the factory wheels?
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It's actually w/ the rovans which are a little shorter. So I'm very surprised I'm the only one experiencing this. I', wondering if the front shocks are actually suppose to be shorter than the rears and I somehow have two sets of rear shocks.
 
The fronts are shorter. I have read of some cars coming with 3 rears and 1 front. LOL

It is possible that you have all rears.
 
RCDAD said:
The fronts are shorter. I have read of some cars coming with 3 rears and 1 front. LOLIt is possible that you have all rears.
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That is hilarious! I just measured mine on the car so take it w/ a grain of salt. The rears are only 1/8" longer than the fronts. Is that how yours measure out?
 
mulepic said:
That thread dies out w/ inquires regarding 'aluminum C's'. What is/was that? Were they ever made/seen? Is this an area prone to breakage?I'm starting to consider a way to stiffen up the control arms. I like the flex to prevent breakage but it seems a little excessive and hurting performance.
Click to expand...
That's for the X Series vehicles.
 
mulepic said:
That is hilarious! I just measured mine on the car so take it w/ a grain of salt. The rears are only 1/8" longer than the fronts. Is that how yours measure out?
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I've never actually measured them. But a new set off the vehicle look to be like a half inch difference.
 
I finally took mine off to measure. The back shocks measure eye to eye 7.25" the front shocks measure eye to eye 6.875" So that's not my problem and I'm back to wondering why I'm the only one that is having this issue of the shocks bottoming out before the chassis. I'm not going to loose sleep over it b/c the extra hole in the front shock tower fixed this and gave the front a better feel.
 
More steering

One of the items on my list to improve the track performance of the DR is getting more steering out of it. The DR has a very low center of gravity and there just isn't enough steering in the front to leverage that when racing. I discovered the knuckles are not being utilized fully by the steering tie bar. So I made a new one. This is a trick I learned from an lcg slash kit (trce) I had. You can optimize the tie bar length to maximize the steering throw.

In the case of the DR I needed to move the holes further apart by .2" and provide clearance for the steering posts. In the picture below you can see the new shiny tie bar. I'm also showing the prototypes I started out with.

Here's a tip, I frequently use plastic cutting boards to rapid prototype w/ b/c you can machine it and work it to shape very quickly and it's cheap.

Also in the picture you can see the steering arm I beefed up as well. That's a work in progress while I wait for my new steering servo to show up.

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Interesting to say the least. Part part looks good. How much more steering does the .2" give you?
 
I have a way of measuring the gap at the hub but that's not going to be easy to explain. But I did measure my turning radius before I made this change. Now I need to wait for my servo to show up to measure it again w/ this change.

I good portion of the additional steering has to do w/ the tie bar now clearing the posts; you can see how the holes are no longer centered on the bar.
 
The 18x1mm die showed up today. Now I can run all sorts of wheels w/ the same hexes. I also bought the tap so I can make myself some extra wheel nuts.

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