My new toy

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a69baldone

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Got my hammer yesterday and pretty pleased with it as I got it used off the net. Its in pretty good shape and I got it for a good price because it had some issues and the prior owner had no RC mechanical experience.
He told me it needed a new diff that was included with the purchase.
Thanks to lots of PM's from the great slawhammer he walked me through checking out the clutch first and it all looked good.
I have it all back together and going to try and start it later today and see if I can narrow it down to what the problem is.
The prior owner told me that upon giving it throttle that it would not go anywhere so he took it into hi hobbyshop and they told him it was the diff.
I checked it out without removing and it sounded good with no binding grinding and such so thats where Im at right now.
Any feedback,help,or just to drop in and tell me what ya think would be appreciated. Here are some pics
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You will want to go to one of the sponsor's at the right of page in the forum..Large scale
to get a 19 tooth steel pinion gear..there like $20 bucks....
You will need to also get a modified picco engine kill switch...DDM has them................
sponsor at the right of forum page..........You will need those 2 items......
Great to see you have a firehammer.....There are some other up grades you can do later
Have fun with your new toy.... there are other people who will help you as well...
...................................Slawhammer................................
 
Going to pitch the P.O.S. radio system also. I have a nice 3 channel FM airtronics radio with 10 model memory that I use on my 1/8th scale, I will just have to get a reciever for it. Got battery charging and will see what we have going on here soon.
Yes slaw that was one of the first I was looking at also was radio and steel gears. How the hell you gonna run gas with plastic gears? Just don't seem like its quite right in my book.
 
AS far as I know its stock besides the cute fan that is not hooked up.
Tryed to start the hammer and its a No Go.... Primed the carb,choked, added a little down in the head. She is getting spark but just would not turn over. So now Im giving my arm a rest and contimplating on what next......
 
Ok got her running for a few. I have to keep the choke about 1/2 closed to keep it running and have to keep blippin the throttle. Ran it around the yard a couple of times just to see what she would do. Something don't sound quite right but could not concentrate on what the sound was due to keeping it running.
Back to the drawing board....
 
Check the needle settings. What does the spark plug color look like. If you need it 1/2 choked it may be way too lean.
For the diff issues test. Take the hammer and place it against a non moving object and put slight pressure with one hand on it. Give it throttle until the rear tires break free or you can see what gives and stops moving. Most of the time its a wheel square that gives loose.
 
Start with for carb settings...High needle 1 1/2 out from closed..Low needle setting 1 1/4
out from closed...You may have to adjust the big fat screw in on the bottom that is idle
then tweek the low setting by a 16th turn in..then the high tweek the same 16 th in
make a high speed run bring back shut off with kill switch asap..check spark plug for
color...if black or on the rich side...adjust the high needle in 16th run again...
kill engine again..ckeck spark plug for color..you want light brown..on the cermic
portion...once there your good....
take you time doing this......all else always go back to the base needle settings and start over....................Slawhammer
 
Thanks guys Im off to seee what I can come up with or not.
If this was nitro I would off already been off and bashing. I don't know alot about these 2 strokes but I will get it figured out. Thanks again for the input. You guys ROCK!!!
 
Thanks GS I took all the stickers off and went to town with some googone and don't look to bad. Add a few stickers I had lying around.
I took it over my buddys house and got it all tuned and sounds real good. We found out what the problem is and like I had thought it is not the diff its the main gear on the diff. I took notice that it had some wear on it but did not think it was "that" bad. Obviously it was.
SO now im still going to have to pull the diff after all.
Aslo I have a set of diff gears im not going to need and don't have the main gear like I do need... Hope fully get this going soon. Might have to see if the gear on my onroad will fit to get it going for time beaing.
 
Thanks BTB I just added the tower link to my favorites. ANd you have a piont on getting both gears. At that price there sould be no reason not to. thought they would of been more then that.
Slawhammer had been giving my a lot of pointers and the lowdown of the firehammer. Im going to have to do the chassis mod for the flex also. At least I know where I stand with it and what is actually the problem.
Thanks again for the help. Its time for me to get busy.....
 
Ducky asked if it had a head kit on it and after taking it to my buddys house he mentioned that the head did not look stock from what he remembers from a firehammer he had in the past.
Maybe someone can let me know if that is the stock head on it.
 
the chassie mod is in my thread with pictures....you will have to look for it..
Now is the time also to do the engine screen mod..as you are taking it apart...
that will save you from buying a fly wheel later....Slawhammer
 
That was a good one bigger, The thread on the board here is not to bad but the one slaw has on rcu took a couple of days to go through. Excellent for a new firehammer owner like my self.
Thanks for the link.You guys here are of great help.
 
Well I was going to try and move the engine back a bit to try and get a better mesh with the diff gear and transfer gear but there is the alum mount on top of the diff that is preventing it from moving it back.
So my question is how are you supose to adjust the mesh between the transfer gear and diff gear with this mount that is non adjustable.
There is quite a bit of slop between them like the engine moved forward so I was thinking if I could move the engine back a bit I could maybe run the truck a little till I get my gears in.
Whats it going to hurt? The gears that Im going to get anyhow?
 
Take your pinion/spur shaft gear off and swap it backward if its eaten up. That way you use the good side of the teeth. To mesh do as follows:

1. Loosen the motor mount screws.
2. Remove the metal brace you are talking about.
3. Take a business card and jam it between the diff gear and spur gear.
4. Squish the two together trying to keep the gears flat against each other.
5. With your 5th arm/hand :laugh: tighten the motor mount screws just enough so the motor will not move.
6. Roll the two rear wheels to remove the card.
7. Check to make sure the two gears are flat and not crooked against each other. If they are do final adjustment.
8 Tighten the motor mount screws.
9. Reinstall the support plate. You will now see the plates 3rd hole is oblong allowing adjustment.
 
BTB you are the man. Thanks.. I was going to get more into it tomorrow and see what the deal was but I did not know about the 3rd hole for the plate. I tried prying the engine back but it was not doing what I was attempting to do then my son came over and I gave up on it for the time being. Turning the gears around and a better mesh will get me going till I get gears in. Im going to tear into it tomorrow. Thanks again and you guys kick ass here.
Im going to get some pics of progress tomorrow.
 
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