My new toy

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Have not had a chance to get in here to check how your doing...
Looks like bigger the better has got you covered......
Hats off to you bigger......Any way my friend you will get it sotred out..
when you tear it apart about 5 times..it gets easy......Slawhammer
 
Pc of cake. I have replaced diffs in my nitro and this was a lot easier actually.The gears a more worn then I thought and now I have to wait 2 weeks for my unemployment to come in to order them so now it has to set for about 3 weeks till I can get it back going.:helpsmilie: ( I have a walbro carb for gears) I also cant turn gears around to get better mesh by using other side not worn as bad. My luck.....
I was also thinking about putting the 120,000 diff lube in the diff while I wait. Also the out drives were wore so Im going to just switch sides for now.Put the right side on left and vise verse.
Here are some pics of progress and carnage.
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Yup, you need some outdrives too. Buy an extra set, you will need them for spares.

Don't fill it with fluid it will leak out the out drives, there is no seal there.

Take a trip to a tractor supply or somewhere there is a collection of greases. Buy the stickiest, thickest grease you can buy, pack the diff as full as you can. Then follow the diff seal in this how-to. Diff Sealing Click Here.
 
a69baldone said:
Pc of cake. I have replaced diffs in my nitro and this was a lot easier actually.The gears a more worn then I thought and now I have to wait 2 weeks for my unemployment to come in to order them so now it has to set for about 3 weeks till I can get it back going.:helpsmilie: ( I have a walbro carb for gears) I also cant turn gears around to get better mesh by using other side not worn as bad. My luck.....
I was also thinking about putting the 120,000 diff lube in the diff while I wait. Also the out drives were wore so Im going to just switch sides for now.Put the right side on left and vise verse.
Here are some pics of progress and carnage.
000_0010-3.webp
000_0011-3.webp
000_0012-3.webp
000_0014-3.webp
Click to expand...

Is the 120,000 weight recommended for the stock gear case? I'm putting together a towerhobbies order.
 
Oil will leak out..no seals..to stop it from leaking...
just get some thick,sticky wheel bearing grease...pack the diff full ..as much as you can
get in it...look at Bigger The Betters..diff rebuild....that will help you....
.................Slawhammer...............
 
Thanks slaw,
Its pretty much obvious that if you have a firehammer this is the place to hang out. Everything is pretty much covered here if you look and between slawhammer,CSP,BTB and some others there is enough here to address any issues for the couple few new firehammer owners that joined up here. And older owner that may have forgotten. (no offense if over 50 years old) HA HA
Only thing is I see is its not a big basher like some of my nitros. Seems like the firehammer has "issues" that need addressed but that s always part of the hobby. At least thats what I enjoy about is fixing and modding. Its always a lot better when your not laid off and have the funds to take care of the "issues" I think Im going to sell a nitro or 2 to take care of this hammer like it should be taken care of.
Thanks again to all of ya...
 
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I can't tell you one 1/5 scale that doesn't have problems out of the box.:no:
All the RTR's come with the cheapest electronics available to make it RTR and competitive with all the others.
All of them are huge and weigh a lot. This weight takes its beating on the plastic parts.
My old nitros I could fling off a 20 foot jump and not flinch. I take my FGMT over a jump and hit about 7 foot and feel my whole body tighten in anticipation. Not only is it bigger it cost more too. But the adrenaline rush is way more!:D

Take a small rock and throw it on the ground, you get a small thunk and it bounces. Take a boulder and throw it in on the ground and you get a boom and it probably breaks and doesn't bounce much.......... This make no sence..... Forget it. :lol:
 
I've been typing as fast as I've been thinking. Sometimes it works, other times I just end up erasing it. Lately I've just left it to show how stupid it sounds. :lol:
S#*t, I did it again didn't I?
 
Well I got it together last night and got a good mesh on the gears. I started it and let it warm up some and tweaked the carb a bit...and a bit more... Then decided I would put the walbro carb on instead of the stock carb.
I went and did some searching here and found the stock settings for the walbro got it all set for starting pulled the rip cord and......... ITS ALIVE!!!
A little adjustment on the lowend and it seems to be pretty much there.
No hesitation when you crack the trottle and it seems to run a lot better then the stock carb... Seems like a big differance from what I notice.
Took it out side( Yes I was tuning and all in my basement) And did a couple slow passes in back yard and seems to be running good. ( Damn this thing is a tank) Blipped the throttle a couple of times and it has some getty up.... I went ahead and shut it off befor I got to throttle happy and produced some carnage.... Will do some more running later today and post results.
So for the maiden voyage of my hammmer I seem to be pretty pleased for the most part...
Thanks for all the info and help from everyone here. I will be posting progress or deprogress (if thats a word) As I go....
 
sounds good..you will have to make some minor adjustment along the way...on the carb
You still need to look in to the modified picco Kill switch for the engine....
God you got it together...just take it easy till you get the kill switch...
.....................Slawhammer.........................
 
Its a stock dtx 23 but no CY here it is a 3 bolt head... All I did so far was install the walbro carb.
Ran it a bit more and I think I might have the gear mesh a bit tight. I can hear them so Im going to do as I was told and put the buisness card in and see how that does. I thought I would try it by eye because they are wore a bit...other then that its running pretty good so far. Need to lean out the high end a bit and take care of the gear mesh and I should be in there...
 
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Just try to get them as tight as you can without the gear bottoming out in the other and binding. I can do it by eye now too.;) Sometimes just tightening the screws throws the mesh off.:cursing:
 
I cant really tell for sure what it is but its a whinning sound under accelleration. I would not think it is from the plastic gears and cant tell for sure so Im going to try to back off the mesh and see. Hope fully thats what it is. As for preformance if you want to call it....
This thing bounces like a bobber in the middle of the lake and runs like a sherman tank. Far from my 1/8th truggies and 1/8th buggies. But its GAS!!! and its BIG!!!
 
let me see about a pic I have a hard time with this camera with close up pics. I will talk the other half into it for me, most likely cost me a foot rub because everything elts I ask does.:blush: Its all good though.
 
Look for the macro setting if it has one. It will either be in the menu or a button on the camera. It looks like a flower. That will allow your camera to focus within inches of the object.

If you can't find it - Baby oil works well.:lol:

The whining could also be the gears not meshing due to the damage. If you can spin both the rear tires and it seems free, your OK.
 
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