My two screw loose

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ChuenouXiao

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The two screw holding my intake plastic manifold came loose. Didn't have the chance to tighten it yet but can't seem to start my engine since then. Can something like this cause engine start issue? Planning to replace that intake manifold but I read that the aluminum manifold with lip is the best?
 
If the intake is loose, it won't start. It creates an air leak. The billet intakes are a great upgrade. They won't crack, or warp like the stock plastic intakes.
 
Guys I took stock manifold apart and inspect. It's not warp yet but going to upgrade it soon. So I reinstalled it with blue Loctite for now. I have a missing off button that flew out some how :) With out this my, engine won't start too right? Where can get this part from?
 
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RampageHopUps said:
It won't start without it. The button actually releases the ground, so if there is no button, the ground is not there.
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I knew it :D I remember reading somewhere about that. This was the second time the button came off. The first time was the killer bee button, this time.... its my CY engine's button. How do I prevent this? Replaced the whole switch with button?..... last time I just push my CY engine button into the killer bee switch button holder :D bad idea huh?
 
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You're losing kill switches? Yikes. When you install it, make sure it slides into the slot on the fan cover. If you look at the switch, there are tabs on the sides. Those tabs need to be facing up and down in the slot to properly secure the switch.
 
Deluge said:
You're losing kill switches? Yikes. When you install it, make sure it slides into the slot on the fan cover. If you look at the switch, there are tabs on the sides. Those tabs need to be facing up and down in the slot to properly secure the switch.
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In addition to this, where the black / red leads connect to the engine, you are supposed to slide the connector over the tab. I found that you can push the connector on and it's actually not 'slid' onto the metal tab. The tab slides in between the plastic cover and alongside the connector. (wish I knew the name of this type electrical connection, would be easier to explain)

when correct, it's a very snug fit, and the stock killer leads are kinda flimsy so they tend to want to bend when pushing it in.
 
Deluge said:
You're losing kill switches? Yikes. When you install it, make sure it slides into the slot on the fan cover. If you look at the switch, there are tabs on the sides. Those tabs need to be facing up and down in the slot to properly secure the switch.
Click to expand...
Deluge, the red button flew out but the kill switch button holder is still on the engine. I was sure I installed the button properly but it still came out anyways :(
 
This is how it looks like now.... I believe this will prevent my engine from starting. Which is happening right now. How do I prevent this? This is the second time now....
 
Bummer. I know they get stuck when they're dirty, but I've never seen one fall apart like that. The CY switch comes with a dust cover, you could try that.
 
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Deluge said:
Also, if you're running a killer bee, you don't really need the stop switch. You could remove it and just kill the engine from the transmitter.
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One other problem is my engine won't start without the button in place to ground the circuit. :( so going to replace it with a HPI switch :D
 
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