New Custom Arm Mounts

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
B

Bill_G

Well-Known Member
Messages
134
Reaction score
0
I thought I post this up for everyone to see...


This is my solution to the drive shaft binding problem as noted in other threads. Some other things could be done to fix the problem such as:


#1 (Obviously) Proper length drive shafts (Hint to Redcat)


#2 Different length Suspension Arms


#3 Redesigned Arm Mounts


I decided to do #3 because it seemed to be the simplest for the long run. I'd rather just buy stock plastic suspensions arms if I break one. I could make new shafts, not that it would be easy on a manual lathe, but if not hardened and tempered properly they'll snap pretty easily. I'll see how the Redcat shafts hold up.


I don't have much run time on my TT because of this problem and needed to get these made so I can at least make it a roller again.


My Arm Mounts relocate the suspension arms .120" (3mm) further away from the gear box. This provides ample room inside the diff cup for full suspension movement and will now allow negative camber adjustment. Mounts are made from 6061-T6 Aluminum. They completely mirror the stock mounts other than they are 3mm longer on each side. The rear pair retains the stock toe-in and anti-squat setting also. Which are about 2 and 1.5 degrees per side if I remember right.


First pic shows the stock mounts and how deep the pin rides in the cup


th_100_1769.webp


When the pins are at 12 & 6 o'clock the suspension can't move its full range.


Pics of my home made mounts


th_000_0153.webpth_000_0147.webpth_000_0152.webp


Next on the list, Heavy Duty Turnbuckles.


Thanks for lookin and feel free to post any comments.
 
Nice work bill they look better than factory ones and I liike how you spaced them widerit looks like they bolt to the chassis that ill keep the diff case from cracking if you wreck I want a set, any chance you have a set youd sell :)
 
Thanks guys


Oh yea, forgot to say that they do bolt to the chassis now too.


Sorry, only one set right now. I would love to make and sell these, but I have 20+ hours into these no CNC here. I'm not sayin I'm would wanna get rich off these.


I did think about makin 2 set from the start, but decided against it in case there were any problems. I spent a lot time makin sure the drawings were right and of course there were revisions along the way. So, it's all good now.


Maybe I'll make some more after I get the car back together.


Gotta get those camber links made next.
 
Here's a couple more pics for reference


th_000_0154a.webpth_000_0160.webp


In the first pic the red arrows shows my screw up.


This groove indexes to the diff case. Not a big deal here, but I was pissed I let that happen. Don't forget to compensate for tool offset.
 
That's a great idea / execution!...maybe one of the manufacture / sponsor types will pick up on the idea and produce some CNC ones....they don't look like a complicated part to CAD up.
 
Very nice work there bud. I wish I could produce parts like that "in-house". Might I suggest boring out the pin holes for a bushing?
 
Easy job


I own a machine shop and could easly make some of those. Bill-G, do you want to get together and make some? How many people out there want a set??
 
Well, there seems to be some interest in these already. Glad to see that. Thanks everyone.


Let's see where this thread goes and maybe I could do a run and sell them if it's ok with the moderators.


Demon, that's an idea I thought about doing, but I also wanted maximum strength by keeping the outer wall as thick as possible. With the way it is now only the arm should be rotating on the pin. The pin should stay fixed in the mounts and not cause any wear. May have to add a small set screw to make sure the pins stay locked in place tho.
 
The bushings will only be needed if the pins rotate in the mounts.


The way the rear mounts work the holes are oversized to allow the pins to sit at the angles needed to make the toe-in and anti-squat. This kinda causes the pins to bind in place. The same thing happens with the stock plastic mounts. Having the holes oversized is easier than drilling the compound angles to only achieve the small amount of toe and a-s angles.


I have only assembled the rear diff so far to check fitment and the pins don't move. The fronts I'll check tomorrow.
 
Ol said:
I own a machine shop and could easly make some of those. Bill-G, do you want to get together and make some? How many people out there want a set??
Click to expand...
I'll take two sets here! you guys should start a poll...
 
Ok guys, I test fit both front and rear diffs to the chassis. The mounts bolt up to the cases fine. I have a V2 chassis and everything bolted up fine on there, but did have a problem with one of the holes lining up to the mounts with the V3 chassis. No matter how I tried that same hole wouldn't match up. So, I'll have to say all my dimensions are good.


As for the pins...


I may just go with the set screws because I can move the pins with small pliers. I'm not gonna be able to anodize these to give the aluminum that extra wear protection.


Since there has been quite a few of you willing to buy I considered making a small run of my own. First, I think it's only right to clear it with Rob since it's going through the forum. He may not want this to turn into a "For Sale" thread if so I will start a new thread. After that I will discuss price.


Thanks again.
 
Back
Top