New Stuff that came with my MT5 V3

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Slasher

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the blue wheel nuts have little serrated teeth to grip the wheel so no need


for blue lock-tight to keep the nuts from loosening when you drive the truck


and it came with a fail-safe that works pretty good so i don't have to buy one


just though i would let people know
 
Slasher said:
the blue wheel nuts have little serrated teeth to grip the wheel so no need
for blue lock-tight to keep the nuts from loosening when you drive the truck


and it came with a fail-safe that works pretty good so i don't have to buy one


just though i would let people know
Click to expand...
Fail safes suck it. You need a kill switch.


http://www.killerrc.com/store/store.php
 
I have a kill switch and it sucks just as bad because it don't kill the engine if you lose the radio receiver make sure you get the killer bee that kills the engine no matter what i think it is the v-2


:eek:
 
So you have one and it doesn't kill the engine if you lose radio transmission? I had a crappy spektrum in my large scales. That radio would glitch occasionally and the killswitch would kill the engine. I had a run away prior to any killswitch because I thought the failsafe would do the job. Well, I lost it one day in the neighborhood. The baja hit a bush full speed head on (no damage amazingly to either). So from then on I went with a kill switch.


What radio do you have racetruck?
 
I had to repair the neighbours garage door due to a carb that stuck open in my townhouse complex lol. my redcat rally is built and ready to run but it won't even get started until my killer rc kill switch arrives and is installed
 
Last edited by a moderator:
csp1971 said:
So you have one and it doesn't kill the engine if you lose radio transmission? I had a crappy spektrum in my large scales. That radio would glitch occasionally and the killswitch would kill the engine. I had a run away prior to any killswitch because I thought the failsafe would do the job. Well, I lost it one day in the neighborhood. The baja hit a bush full speed head on (no damage amazingly to either). So from then on I went with a kill switch.
What radio do you have racetruck?
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I've had two run aways one was an hpi radio out of the savage and my other one was a spektrum dx3.0 new out of the box the receiver went bad and went full throttle and hit a side walk. spekturm has sent me new receivers one of them had very short range. i don't trust the radio at all so i'am using my old jrpropo am pcm with a built in fail safe
 
The kill switches don't work with HPI radios according to killerrc's web site (I'm not sure if the 2.4ghz radio that comes with the Redcats work with a killswitch or not). I would still run a killswitch and set your radio up for fail safe (as long as it works with an older radio). My accident was from a dead battery. If I had the killswitch on it, it would have shut down and saved me copious amounts of strain on my heart.


If you ever replace your radio, get a Futaba 2.4 3 channel. Those things are the best. They automatically set up to the killerbee without any adjustment to the radio.
 
My 5T has a kill switch, my MCD baja doesn't have one.


It's not always needed, it depends on how smooth your servo's run when they are out of power.


I have a spring attached to the throttle/brake servo so when the power fails...due to the spring tension the engine will be forced back in to idle, (it closes the carburator) and the spring will apply the brake so it will actually slow down fast.


A kill switch doesn't do that, it just kills the engine but the car is still on speed and has to run out...
 
if your linkage or servo locks no spring will make a 1/5 scale stop. it is very important to be in position to kill the engine. it happened to me.
 
grf said:
if your linkage or servo locks no spring will make a 1/5 scale stop. it is very important to be in position to kill the engine. it happened to me.
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Exactly. Kill switches needed. Springs are for nitros.
 
johnbob said:
My 5T has a kill switch, my MCD baja doesn't have one.
It's not always needed, it depends on how smooth your servo's run when they are out of power.


I have a spring attached to the throttle/brake servo so when the power fails...due to the spring tension the engine will be forced back in to idle, (it closes the carburator) and the spring will apply the brake so it will actually slow down fast.


A kill switch doesn't do that, it just kills the engine but the car is still on speed and has to run out...
Click to expand...
the theory is ok, but it is not like that in practice. thats why i use the spektrum safe mode and killer switch by Pico.
 
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