Oh dear ... When does it become an obsession?

Messages
1,765
Location
Rochester,NY
I would say your best bet is to put the strut in a vise and lock some vise grips on the drive dog and give it a good wack and see if it comes out.

I'm going to assume that the drive shaft is the same diameter as the flex, both being 1/4" . If needs be you can get a flex over at Offshore Electric .com.
The have a store you'll be able to get a flex shaft there. You might have to cut it to length. Also you should be able to get a new strut and strut bearing for it to along with a new drive dog.

You may want to join https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/forum.php . 3/4's of the way down the page there is a link to the store mentioned above.

And personally I wouldn't run the boat until you can get the spacing right. You can do a lot of damage pretty quick.

You should also be running a little space about 1 to 2 mm on the zelos

And yes your new boat does seem to be rare. Not sure why it's a beautiful boat. Although I'm finding my new Zonda is pretty rare also. Not a lot of info out there.
 
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Live2Ride

Active Member
Messages
29
Location
Spokane Wa.
I would say your best bet is to put the strut in a vise and lock some vise grips on the drive dog and give it a good wack and see if it comes out.

I'm going to assume that the drive shaft is the same diameter as the flex, both being 1/4" . If needs be you can get a flex over at Offshore Electric .com.
The have a store you'll be able to get a flex shaft there. You might have to cut it to length. Also you should be able to get a new strut and strut bearing for it to along with a new drive dog.

You may want to join https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/forum.php . 3/4's of the way down the page there is a link to the store mentioned above.

And personally I wouldn't run the boat until you can get the spacing right. You can do a lot of damage pretty quick.

You should also be running a little space about 1 to 2 mm on the zelos

And yes your new boat does seem to be rare. Not sure why it's a beautiful boat. Although I'm finding my new Zonda is pretty rare also. Not a lot of info out there.
That’s some good information.
I got the drive dog backed off some. Not quite a 1/4”, but better then it was.
141E78CA-FD0D-42CF-BA0C-EB15DA36FB9F.jpeg
 
Messages
1,765
Location
Rochester,NY
That’s some good information.
I got the drive dog backed off some. Not quite a 1/4”, but better then it was.
View attachment 61350
All you did was compress the rubber tubing that's behind the prop. When you hit the vise grips holding the drive dog it moved the drive dog. You still need to get the flex out of the strut so you can grease it . Remove the nut, rubber tube and the prop . Did the threads go all the way to the prop? I've never seen anyone use rubber tubing to hold the prop in place. Somethink tells me that prop isn't for that boat and the previous owner just made due to get by. Think the origial props for this boat are plastic from picutes I've seen . Put the nut back on and try clamping the visegrips on the nut this time and hit the vise grips to try and remove it .

Where the prop sits what is the diameter? also with the strut in the vise you can remove the drive dog and with the nut on the drive shaft you can try diving the drive shaft into the strut . Something tells me the strut bearing has welded it's self to the drive shaft because it was run with out grease. If the previous owner only ran it twice this should come apart a lot easier that it is. Something is screwed with this.

Maybe these pictures will help you. These are from the 1/8 scale hydro I'm building. This first picture is the strut with the strut bearing pressed in to the end. The bearing is just a brass tube with a lip on the end and holes drilled in to capture the grease so it doesn't run dry. The second is obiously my flex It's a 1/4" fles and the drive shaft on the end steps down to 3/16" where the prop sits. That was why I asked. If you end up replacing the flex your going to have to figure out this stuff. The last picture show the proper spacing . I was guessing that's about a 1/4" the coupler will hold it to that spacing so you don't really need the washer. the washer is just insurance for those that don't measure and set their boats up correctly. Oh and my drive dog isn't in the right place on my drive shaft. The props for this boat are almost an inch deep. IMG_20200721_141355.jpg
IMG_20200721_141427.jpg IMG_20200721_141534.jpg
 
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Messages
1,765
Location
Rochester,NY
Reason why I'm not into boats 🙄🤦‍♂️😆😆😆
Yeah those pesky trees, light poles and curbs are so much easier to miss than a Fish. Damn things keep jumping out in front of RC 1/5's like there's a target on them or something. :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: Me thinks the odds of hitting a fish are pretty low . But when you hit one all hell breaks loose. :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
Wow, I better do a little more research before I put this in the water. Thanks again for steering me in the right direction.
No problem . I just got back into boats last year . I did a couple balsa wood builds when I was Z's age. My Zelos was the first boat I bought last year. When I decided to do the Hydro I had a really steep learning curve. When you posted a pic of your new boat the first thing I did was google it so that I could learn about it to try and help you. Here this will help you too. My Hydro doesn't use the nose piece,needle bearings or the Grease fitting hole. I'm guessing yours doesn't either. This is a generic pic. so no gospel here.
2012-10-23_07-29-56_627.jpg
 
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Live2Ride

Active Member
Messages
29
Location
Spokane Wa.
Yeah those pesky trees, light poles and curbs are so much easier to miss than a Fish. Damn things keep jumping out in front of RC 1/5's like there's a target on them or something. :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: Me thinks the odds of hitting a fish are pretty low . But when you hit one all hell breaks loose. :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:


No problem . I just got back into boats last year . I did a couple balsa wood builds when I was Z's age. My Zelos was the first boat I bought last year. When I decided to do the Hydro I had a really steep learning curve. When you posted a pic of your new boat the first thing I did was google it so that I could learn about it to try and help you. Here this will help you too. My Hydro doesn't use the nose piece,needle bearings or the Grease fitting hole. I'm guessing yours doesn't either. This is a generic pic. so no gospel here.
View attachment 61355
I just found the manual online and sure enough, the piece of rubber tubing between the prop and the prop nut is suppose to be there. Not sure why.
69976618-17B0-4AB9-B1E9-6A60833B5D3C.jpeg
 

Seandonato73

The carb doctor👨‍⚕️
Messages
6,158
I'll fill you in on the rubber tube. The theory goes if you strike something with your prop the tube will get smashed, allowing the prop to come off the drive dog and not send so much of a shock load through the power train. It's a bad thought. That's how my miss Elam was when I got it. Also I'd look into a brass prop for it. Plastic flexes and breaks rather easy. Coop can tell you where he gets his.... I've not been into the rc boat game in a wile....
 

Live2Ride

Active Member
Messages
29
Location
Spokane Wa.
I'll fill you in on the rubber tube. The theory goes if you strike something with your prop the tube will get smashed, allowing the prop to come off the drive dog and not send so much of a shock load through the power train. It's a bad thought. That's how my miss Elam was when I got it. Also I'd look into a brass prop for it. Plastic flexes and breaks rather easy. Coop can tell you where he gets his.... I've not been into the rc boat game in a wile....
The prop is stainless. I think I will do a float test tomorrow and maybe take it for a short slow cruise.
 
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