Parts Spec Sheet

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jamminjack

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Hey there,

I just received my 3.0 EX 30.5 CC King Motor Buggie.:cup-1:

I am still in shock. WOW! That being said, I started going through the paper work provided with the buggie. The manual leaves a lot to be desired.:o

I went to the spec sheets and found some good pictures, break down of the parts, and numbers to go along with them. However, there is no description sheet to cross reference to.:mad: Example screws (referring to size of screws, length MM etc.)

Also there is no breakdown spec sheet for the carb, or motor....

Am I just being anal? Sometimes when you get up in age a little you get a little testy... My wife constantly reminds me of that..Ha Ha.
I have been playing around with RC cars for more years than I can remember. I have spec sheets for all of them. If a part broke, I could tell you the name, number, and what size screws it took etc.

I am a firm believer in replacement of parts, screws, etc with the correct ones.

I contacted King motor, and they emailed back with " The sheets that are in the manual are all we have" Its hard for me to believe that if a manufacturer goes through the trouble to draw a schamatic, and numbers the parts, that they don't have a cross reference description sheet, telling you the size of the screws, or the mm.

As far as the carb, it is supposed to be a WTWelbur997. However, I can't find a schematic of that carb anywhere.. also for the motor the same thing.. I really don't know if the motor is CY or Zenoha. It really doesn't matter which motor it is, but I would like a schematic for working on it. A good reference with pictures, is worth its weight in gold.
What happens if you have to order parts? don't you need to know the brand? or are they all the same?

So finally after several more emails King Motor told me to try a forum to see if anyone had access to any of these sheets. :w00t:

So in closing, I love my King Motor, but would definitely welcome all guidance, comments, and any links to some specs.

Thanks guys in advance,

Jamminjack
Blue Ridge Mts VA.
 
I ended up downloading the HPI manual, and also being a little old fashioned on some things as well, printed the entire thing. It has the screw sizes, lengths, etc. I have also been measuring with calipers as I've needed to just to verify and making notes in the manual as needed.
 
jaygreig said:
I ended up downloading the HPI manual, and also being a little old fashioned on some things as well, printed the entire thing. It has the screw sizes, lengths, etc. I have also been measuring with calipers as I've needed to just to verify and making notes in the manual as needed.
Click to expand...

Hey there, I appreciate the reply. I email King Motor China this morning, to see if they are willing to email the spec sheets. We will see. I also followed a link to the manuals for the HPI and will probably be doing the same thing downloading...

I still am very excited about this new toy.... Just starting to go through it tighting everything up etc.... Just want to make sure I am doing everything I can to be right. Learning curve will come for sure...
I can't believe the wealth of information on this forum... Great place

Thanks again, If I do get any spec sheet from King Motor I will difinately post them for others..
Thanks again

Jamminjack;)
 
I'm using the HPI manual as well. If in doubt I use this site to find the specs. Tedious work if you want to know the specs on all parts but for the occasional screw it works well.


http://www.rcmodelz.co.uk/search.php

I tend to replace screws with better quality ones from Tony's Screws.


Disclaimer: I'm not affiliated with either of these two companies.
 
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The problem with km manual and hpi manual is they are both for stock plastic parts not the upgraded aluminum in the 3.0. So not all parts are a direct replace example lower rear arm hinge pin stock is 96mm long and the km aluminum is like 110mm long. if you search the hpi part number at daves motors it will pop up which makes it easy to find parts.
My biggest piece of advice is to make sure and go thru and check all screws especially the front end and steering. I have taken my buggy out twice and both times with in 30 mins a screw fell out of the steering. First screw was linkage between tie rods and today a tie rod ball joint unscrewed and bent. So I am now waiting again on parts in the mail. I went thru all screws again adding loctite to make sure this does not happen again. I realize that part of the fun of these hobbies is working on them but darn I also want 2 run it.
 
xraysrt6 said:
The problem with km manual and hpi manual is they are both for stock plastic parts not the upgraded aluminum in the 3.0. So not all parts are a direct replace example lower rear arm hinge pin stock is 96mm long and the km aluminum is like 110mm long. if you search the hpi part number at daves motors it will pop up which makes it easy to find parts.
My biggest piece of advice is to make sure and go thru and check all screws especially the front end and steering. I have taken my buggy out twice and both times with in 30 mins a screw fell out of the steering. First screw was linkage between tie rods and today a tie rod ball joint unscrewed and bent. So I am now waiting again on parts in the mail. I went thru all screws again adding loctite to make sure this does not happen again. I realize that part of the fun of these hobbies is working on them but darn I also want 2 run it.
Click to expand...


Thanks for your input. I started at the front of the buggy and worked my way to the rear. Checked every nut and bolt used loctite. I was surprised to see how many items were loose.. Even missing a few screws....Contacted Dan and he is sending out the missing screws.
I am also waiting on some upgrades should be here tomorrow. Killer rc remote switch, and rc inovations cooling clutch plate. Read so many articals about clutch's burning up etc, I thought I would install cooling plate even before I started running. What a ordeal that turned out to be.....:w00t:
Supposed to be a pretty straight forward install. Remove the clutch and the clutch plate, and install the new cooling plate.:rolleyes: While waiting for the parts to arrive tomorrow, I figured I would start to get everything ready. Removed everything down to the clutch plate. One bolt left, remove the clutch plate. Well Murphy's Law jumped in my face big time.... The 6 MM screw holding the clutch plate stripped.. It broke ...:w00t: This is a brand new buggy mind you..Never even started yet.. Long story short...After removing the motor, drilling out the bolt, and using a extractor, now I have to find a 6MM bottom tap, (that's my job today) I will clean out and re-tap for the 6mm screw. There was so much loctite on that bolt, it was under the head and completely covered the screw...:mad: What the hell was that all about. Some guy in china is still laughing his ass off. Anyway, I am having so much fun I can't stand it.:cool: I hope no one else runs into this. The only way you are going to find out, is if you ever have to pull your clutch plate... Fun and games you have to love it....
Regards
Jamminjack
 
Wish I had known you were going to tackle that, I would have given you the advice my buddy gave me. He said to put a little heat to it to help unseat that thread locker...I found the same thing you did on the underside. The heat idea from my buddy was a life saver.
 
Thanks for the advice on heating loctite I knew to do this with stubborn rusted bolts but did not know about loctite so thanks for the valuable tip. Well buggy back together went out to run it today and as I am driving slowly away from me I see that the upper rt rear ball joint cover looks like it is moving I stop the car walk up and sure enough 2 little phillips screws are missing from the aluminum ball joint mount I look at the others and another one is missing a screw to. Luckily I saws before running the car so I did not loose the cover and do any damage. I stopped in my lhs hoping they might have these screws and they did I think my luck is finally changing. Went home and every screw on every ball joint was loose. They now are loctited in. This makes me wish you could buy these cars in kit form and assemble from scratch like good old balsa rc planes. If it wasn't right you had know one to blame but yourself.
 
xraysrt6 said:
Thanks for the advice on heating loctite I knew to do this with stubborn rusted bolts but did not know about loctite so thanks for the valuable tip. Well buggy back together went out to run it today and as I am driving slowly away from me I see that the upper rt rear ball joint cover looks like it is moving I stop the car walk up and sure enough 2 little phillips screws are missing from the aluminum ball joint mount I look at the others and another one is missing a screw to. Luckily I saws before running the car so I did not loose the cover and do any damage. I stopped in my lhs hoping they might have these screws and they did I think my luck is finally changing. Went home and every screw on every ball joint was loose. They now are loctited in. This makes me wish you could buy these cars in kit form and assemble from scratch like good old balsa rc planes. If it wasn't right you had know one to blame but yourself.
Click to expand...

Agreed on the kit idea...made my wife a little nuts having this thing spread out on the dining room table, I pretty well took mine down to kit status before my first run. Both to get everything in the kit buttoned up right, but also to satisfy my inner kid that always took apart my toys to see how they worked. Gives you a great understanding and a lot of knowledge of weak points, stress points, wear areas, etc.
Maybe we should shoot Dan an email to see about a kit offering!
 
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